Sway bar link recommendations?

[Digitalgp]

I've had it with these motorcraft sway bar links. I had a missing front one not long after I bought the truck last year which after doing some back and fourth the dealer finally replaced it for me free of charge. Supposedly both fronts were as part of the pre-delivery inspection. Now I have a back one that is literally decapitated. As I hear its a common issue for the links on these to break or fall out. Has anyone found links that don't commit suicide? I'm looking at the Moog ones. Apparently they make two different ones....the standard & the enhanced performance. The standard is just a metal rod with the busings, the performance one looks closer to the motorcraft one Anybody have any luck with either?

 

[swshawaii]

Bulletproof, but you will have to spend around $40 for both sides and reduce the Energy Suspension bushing inside flanges. Check Amazon or RockAuto pricing for 2 each Moog K7275 kits and 2 each ES 9.8103G/R polyurethane bushings. Have recent pics since these were made and installed almost 10 years ago. LMK

Just a heads up. I recently purchased two Moog K7275 kits from Amazon at separate times and received Moog K700542 "updated" end links both times. They are a completely different design and use smaller diameter bolts that are not usable for this mod. Luckily Amazon refunded me both times and said I do not have to return them.

Sway Bar Links

 

[Beachcomber86]

Moog, Moog, Moog!!! Get the problem solvers. You can do the front without taking the tires off.
Front

MOOG Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Kit
Part No: K700542
Warranty LIMITED LIFETIME REPLACEMENT

Rear

MOOG Suspension Stabilizer Bar Link Kit
Part No: K700539
Warranty LIMITED LIFETIME REPLACEMENT

 

[swshawaii]

^ Really thought Moog "solved the problem" with their updated end link design with poly bushings until I saw these threads. Also keep in mind the difference between a 7/16" (K7275) vs. 3/8" (K700542) bolt is huge in terms of tensile strength.

rusty Moog K700542 endlink - after 20 months

Moog PS End Link Bushings Downgraded?

http://www.moogparts.com/pdf/problemsolver/english/MOOG_PS_Bulletin_213006_Sway_Bar_Link_Eng.pdf

 

[MotorCityFats13]

I replaced all 4 of mine with the cheapest ones offered at autozone and no problems.... I have a huge problem paying top dollar for literally a bolt, sleeve and bushings.... I say if you keep breaking them then you are either a crazy offroad beast or you are over tightening them on install ..... with wheels on the ground you only tighten up the nuts until the sleeves dont rattle

 

[thebrakeman]

I've been using the Moog polyeurethane end-links, but they still break:
Front K700542
Rear K700539

And I've been taking every precaution:
1. Installing on the ground, so the bars are unloaded, and everything is level.
2. Per technical service guy, tighten only until the center sleeve can't be turned by hand, then 1 more complete revolution.
*****(from what MotorCityFats said above, maybe I'm still over-tightening)

The first ones I installed failed within a few months. That's when I found that I'd far overtorqued them, which forces them into bending. You need to torque them like above, which will allow the bushings to work properly, and have the bars subjected primarily to tension/compression (not bending). But like I said, I seem to still get only 2-3 years out of them. Actually, I think I heard 1 of mine clunking the other day.

Fortunately, they are lifetime warranty, working with Rockauto is easy, and you can have the old piece(s) out and the new one installed in about 20minutes.

 

[Tech By Trade]

I have tried the 40 dollar moog ones, and the 10 dollar kingdom auto ones, the 30 dollar certified ones, OEM ones, and every thing in between. The reason I have tried so many is the fact that I have to replace them every 6 months. I installed them unloaded, pre loaded and every in between. I have tried under torquing them, torquing them, and over torquing them. In fact, the lower top bushing driver side is currently missing. My old man doesn't even bother replacing them anymore on his old fords. Funny thing, I have only had to replace the rears once.

 

[Digitalgp]

Wow I really thought moog would be a good upgrade. I guess it really doesn't matter which links I pick just a shotty design all around. I can't believe someone hasn't come up with something better especially on a very popular SUV like ours.

 

[Beachcomber86]

Honestly, WTF are you doing to bend or break a metal spacer and bolt? The Motorcraft parts are crap, but the Moog parts are so much nicer. Had mine on for about 15,000 miles with no issues.

 

[07EddyB]

Every time a thread like this comes up I'm just lost thinking about my 2007 with the original links at 104K. I wonder if it's more of a problem for the guys up north with all the salt or maybe your roads are a lot rougher than mine. I'm sure they'll go eventually but they certainly haven't been a problem for me.

 

[Explorer_PL]

I lost my front OEM at around 80k maybe ? Replaced them with Moogs with blue bushings and they are still good many years later with plowing involved. Maybe just luck.

 

[Tech By Trade]

Its not the bolts, they last. The bushings just get chewed away on mine for some reason. I have tried everything. Our roads are horrible, I do believe that is the problem. If we could buy the bushings bulk, I would buy a big bag and replace them every 6 months. 3 quarters of the time the threads don't get a chance to be rusted up on the bolts. I did have to drive over a 3 food snow drift to get out of the garage yesterday, and push a foot of snow down the street. With any luck the plows should be around some time next week, if I am lucky. that's what you get for 275 a month in property taxes.

 

[swshawaii]

Tech By Trade. If you are eating or blowing out bushings this mod will likely solve your failures. Seriously, I blew out three sets of the crappy blue Moog bushings in 2 years before doing the mod linked in post #2. 10 years later and counting without a failure.

 

[Digitalgp]

Looks like rockauto has the premium moogs with the grey polyurethane bushings. I think I'm going to give those a shot and if they fail short term I will strongly concider doing that bushing mod

 

[BrooklynBay]

I didn't get a chance to test my design yet, but I've redesigned these bushings a while ago to make them stronger than anything which could be purchased in auto parts stores. I used an online CAD drawing program called TinkerCad, then posted them on two websites called TinkerCad & Thingiverse to be printed on a 3D printer. The older model Ford bolts, and older performance links were 5/16". The newer design which I've checked at Autozone recently is 3/8". There are some places online which offer 3D printing services. I remember reading about some Staples stores which offer this service as well.

When you have them printed, I think that the closest match to the OEM or performance polyurethane will be TPU. TPE is the next lower grade which is a little cheaper. I've read about some people using ABS on mounts but this will cause you to have a much firmer ride. TPU & TPE are flexible, but I recommend using an infill of 100% for maximum strength. Anything less will make the bushings softer but less durable. Nylon or polycarbonate might be other options but I've never read about anybody using them for this purpose so it's up to you.