Swaybar Quick Disconnects

[Sean Pinner]

Does anyone know if they make swaybar quick disconnects for explorers? If so please let me know!!!

 

[mattadams]

Sean, first off I can see your new to the site. Welcome! The swaybar discussion has taken place extinsively in the past, and I'd advise you to search the board for possibly solutions. To search the site go here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/search.php

while I don't believe there are any companies that make sway bar disconnects that will work with the Explorers. Another possible solution is just to remove the bolt and replace it with some sort of a trailer pin, or clip of some sort. LIke Is aid the best way of checking this would be to go through and search previous posts on the subject.

 

[leebo]

Just drill a hole through the sway-bar bolt and put a cotter pin in it's place. I've used this for over a year now with little problems. No need for the nut.....to dis-connect just pull the pin, pull out the bolt, and tie up the sway-bar.

 

[Brian1]

Welcome to the best Explorer site on the net! For the most recent post about your question click here.

 

[dossler2002]

after you disconnect the sway bar by removing that pin....do you have to do anything else to the sway bar....won't it just be dangling all around?????????

 

[Brian1]

You disconnect both sides and then tie it up to your frame. I myself use bunjee cords, 1 on each side to tie it up to the frame. If you dont tie it up you risk breaking something or bending the bar itself.

 

[leebo]

Dead Link Removed

Since this post first hit Warrior has came out with a set. Check out this link... I've got them and they work great. About the same time putting them on as a cotter pin, but taking them off is a snap. Plus they help with the ride.

 

[Byrd91]

I did like leebo said, except I don't unhook both sides, just one, and then the sway bar doesn't dangle and you don't have to worry about bungying or anything. I just pull the link out a little so it doesn't rub.

 

[Bionc Marsh.]

On my front bar, I cut the two connecting rods in half, drilled a hole the same size of the rod through a piece of 3/4" round stock 3" to 4 " long, basiclly making a pipe. The "pipe" is long enough to cover the entire rod, from jiont to joint. The top 1/2 of the rod was welded insde the "pipe". The bottom of the "pipe" was shaped so it set down around the round part of the joint. The bottom 1/2 of the rod was inserted into the other end and a hole drilled through both pieces and a pin holds it together. I've been running mine for 130,000 miles with same pins. The neat thing about it is that once removed the sway bar rotates up and locks behind the plastic inner fender. On the rear I took the nut off and drilled a hole for a pin and use a bunjee to hold it up when its unhooked. I use to only unhook one side, until I unhooked both. There was a big difference in travel, now all 4 get disconnected. My .02....OK a buck and 1/2.