T-Case replacement

[turboexplorer]

I pulled a 3rd Gen T-Case today out of a 4.6L Explorer. Was easy and went well. Will put in the new case tomorrow. I found the T-Case had been run dry. The case was cracked where someone overtightened the drain plug. They tried to rtv it but to no avail of course. On the scan tool in the 4WD module it was fully shifting into each range but no front rotation. It showed the computer was comanding 97% clutch PWM but to no avail. So T-Case is shot. Got a used one should be here tomorrow.

 

[trucku]

Same issue with my T-Case. I actually went ahead and purchased a new module to find that the T-case is not working. Saw a junkyard AWD transfer case for cheap so bought it. Don't know how to test if it is working. Would love to get it installed before it gets cold.

Post up some pictures and instructions. Can use all the help I can get. Good Luck

V

 

[turboexplorer]

The swap went good and everything is working as it should now.

Really to fully tell if it is working how it should is best done with a scan tool that you can get into the 4WD module and watch what is going on. You can watch what the computer is commanding the T-Case to do and you can see if it actually did it. If you try going into all the 4WD modes and it doesn't lock in and it doesn't set a check engine light then there is a good chance that the T-Case its self is bad. You can tell if it is locking into 4WD if you go into 4 high and do a sweeping figure eight in a parking lot. If it binds, then you know that it is working. same with 4 low. (Which you need to be at least than 5km/hr, 2.8ish mph and in neutral to get it into 4 low according to Ford)

If no check engine light which will be a rationality check engine light and no binding then the T-Case most likely is your culprit. Anyways don't know what you knew already but hope it helps some. If any further questions then feel free to ask.

I'll post some pics of the swap and then do a run down list of what to do to swap them out.

Pics of the old original T-Case (127,000 miles) Again it went bad because it was run dry of fluid.

 

[turboexplorer]

Pics of the T-Case removed from the transmission and the transmission cleaned up ready for a super thin layer of RTV and the new to this truck T-Case.

The T-Case from another 2002 Explorer 78,000 miles on this one.

The new T-Case in the truck with everything fully assembled back to being road worthy.

 

[turboexplorer]

I can go more in depth on this so if you need me to just post up but here is a quick rundown of how to swap the case.

1: Open hood and remove the plastic cover that covers the upper section of the fan shroud. Next remove the upper section of the fan shroud. This is for when you lower the trans and t case to get to the bolts the fan doesn't run into the shroud. Disconnect - batt cable. May need to reconnect to put in neutral to spin the drive shafts, put in park to break shaft bolts loose. But disconnect after shafts have been removed.

2: Take out rear drive shaft. Next remove the front drive shaft. it probably won't come out so just leave it resting on the cross-member.

3: Take out the few bolts that hold heat shields to the cross-member. On drivers side the bolts faces upward one bolt. On passenger side take out one that faces the front of the truck. Next take off the little plastic cover/tank protector on the back side of the cross-member on the passenger side. 2 nuts, then pull it out it has a thin foam type thing that slides between the tank and the X-member to protect the tank from vibrations on the X-member.

4: Now take off both nuts on the trans mount. Next support trans by the trans pan. Lift a little so you take weight off the X-member. Next take off all 8 bolts to the x-member. 2 on the bottom of each side. 2 on the inside of the frame on each side. Take x-member out.

5: Take the trans mount off the T-Case so you can get to the lower bolts. Next disconnect the wiring harness from the T-Case.

6: Lower the trans and T-Case about 3 inches or so (enough to get to the upper T-Case bolts) There is 7 T-Case to transmission bolts. Remove the bolts leave one on the bottom for last so you can take it out while holding the T-Case. Next grab a buddy, mother in law, or neighbors dog to help. One hold T-Case while you take the last bolt out. Then both grab it and hold on good it is heavy. Next wiggle and pry to get the T-Case off the trans, may need to use a couple real hard wackes with a dead blow hammer. (don't use medal hammer will crack the case) Next slide the T-Case off the output shaft of the trans and lower the T-Case to the ground. That's it for removal.

7: When you put new case on, clean both T-Case and trans surfaces well NO FACTORY RTV left. So when you bolt the case onto the trans you know it will sit flat and flush. Check Both trans and T-Case seals make sure they aren't leaking at all if they are then replace the bad seal. Next put a super THIN film of RTV on the trans. Grab the dog, mother in law, or buddy again and lift T-Case up and onto the output shaft of the trans wiggle rear drive shaft flange so you can line splines up and slide T-Case on. The rest is backwards from the removal and you will be done.

Do the parking lot bind test to make sure new case is locking into 4WD and you are done and ready for the winter!!!!!! Hope that helps, may have a moderator put up as a sticky if they feel a how to on 3rd gen T-Case will be valuable to others.

Again any further questions feel free to post up.

 

[trucku]

Awesome!

Great Job!

Great write up and pictures!

 

[turboexplorer]

Hope it helps

 

[trucku]

Hope it helps

Oh yes, this is great help. Thanks so much!