Temperature guage wildly swings!! | Ford Explorer Forums

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Temperature guage wildly swings!!

ernzo

Well-Known Member
Joined
December 30, 2007
Messages
191
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City, State
Denver, Colorado
Year, Model & Trim Level
2003 Mercury Mountaineer
..new water pump and now wild swings on temp guage. I think...Air Pocket...but, after doing the air removal thing...2 weeks later...it is worse, going up almost to the red, then swinging back down.

I think...Thermostat...i change it...no difference.

HELP OB WAN!
 



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..new water pump and now wild swings on temp guage. I think...Air Pocket...but, after doing the air removal thing...2 weeks later...it is worse, going up almost to the red, then swinging back down.

I think...Thermostat...i change it...no difference.

HELP OB WAN!
air in the system is my best guess. Squeeze on the upper hose to try and pump the coolant through the system while the cap is off. Also an aspirin to hold the thermostat open while filling is a neat trick.
 






Bad temp sender the one with only one wire as that is the one that feeds the gauge. It’s by the thermostat housing. Also maybe a bad gauge? For a test you can take the wire off the sender and ground it to see if the needle pegs to the hot side if so then it is most likely the sender.
Good thing is there so cheap I just replace it.

Now being you has done the burp, Thermostat and water pump that’s all good. I do wonder as you never said any thing about flushing the system out. So may be a blockage in the rad, motor block or heater core as possibilities.
 






Did the Burp

This morning, I backed the explorer part way out the driveway so the hood was higher than the rear. Opened the radiator cap to the notch and started the motor. Ran it until the gage moved up and it seemed to 'burp' and puke coolant intermediately. Ran it for maybe 5 minutes, sealed the cap and let her idle for awhile, seems like the temp fluctuated less, but I am still seeing it spike some. My guess is that I wil do this every AM for a few days???

Thanks in advance, I did read here somewhere a technique whereby you used a funnel in the radiator while running the motor...anyone know where that is?
 






This morning, I backed the explorer part way out the driveway so the hood was higher than the rear. Opened the radiator cap to the notch and started the motor. Ran it until the gage moved up and it seemed to 'burp' and puke coolant intermediately. Ran it for maybe 5 minutes, sealed the cap and let her idle for awhile, seems like the temp fluctuated less, but I am still seeing it spike some. My guess is that I wil do this every AM for a few days???

Thanks in advance, I did read here somewhere a technique whereby you used a funnel in the radiator while running the motor...anyone know where that is?
You did remember to top it off after burping it right?
 






Did your replacement thermostat have a weep hole in it? These type make it much easier to fill the system.

Jack up the driver's side front of the vehicle as high as you can get it, remove the cap and fill the system. Then start it and bring it to temp as you did before. Cap the rad and fill the resevoir and you should be good to go.

This is the best way I have found to fill the system. I have hardly ever had to "burp" the system much since I started doing it this way. The key is the thermostat with the weep hole. I like the motorcraft part. I have had problems with aftermarket cheapies, not opening when they should or not at all.
 






Thanks, I did not get a weep hole thermostat, I will change that. The thing is, it seems to be running real hot, I have pinging (see other post). I did remove the Octane plug and that retarded the spark and it no longer pings and seems to run cooler, more normal less swinging. Good grief. What to do?

I also had the "steam' knocking from the block, herd inside and felt as well! I rad on this, searched, and it seems an air bubble can cause this.

No one seems to think head gasket, thankfully. Real stumped but will try to find a weep hole thermo today...
 






When temperature reads hot. Is the Upper radiator hose hot? If this happened after imediately after doing the pump, I think you can rule out a bad Sender. Either a blockage in the New Pump (happened to me many years ago), a bad T-stat if you changed that out with the Water Pump or you need to Burp it better.
Run the car until it reaches Temp or a bit above if it starts to climb. Grab the Top hose and squeeze it hard and fast about 10 times.. see if the hose starts to get real hot.
 






sorry for the multiple threads i did not realize they would converge.

Blockage in new pump? What was that?
 






Almost all temp-related issues seem to be the thermostat. Even a brand new one can be bad and not open fully or at the correct temp, so don't think that just replacing it will solve eveything, ever. That said, every time I've had the temp gauge go higher than midway, or when the system has nearly overheated, replacing the thermostat has solved it. Apparently when the engine temp goes much higher than normal, the wax in the thermostat that causes it to open and close is permanently damaged, and so it no longer functions correctly. Be sure when you get a thermostat that it is the correct temp range, 190-195 degrees. Crappy thermostats, by design, allow more temperate range and some even let the gauge go wayyy over to the right before opening and allowing coolant flow. The ~$20-30 Motorcraft 'stat is about the only one that opens and closes constantly to regulate temp and keep things at ~190 degrees. The $5-7 Stant Superstat is ok, but still allows some temp range. The thin and flimsy cheap 'stats allow a lot of range, but can be good as a temporary fix.

Also a lot of rust/corrosion in the cooling system, or blockage in the radiator and coolant passages will cause heat issues as it won't allow the coolant flow needed. There are other things too like a busted radiator fan clutch, or if the sensor on the fan clutch assembly is no longer doing it's job, then you get a cooling fan that just freewheels or doesn't engage correctly to move the air necessary.

Air in the system does create problems, but from what I've seen, it's almost unnecessary to 'burp' the system if you slowly refill with coolant over an hour, giving 5-10 mins for it to settle before filling again until it's within an inch or two of the top, then put the cap on to the first click, run the engine for ~5 mins, then top off, fill the reservoir, take it for a spin, and then top off the rad and tank once it's reached operating temp at least once to let the 'stat open.
 






ive been dealing with this same problem now for about a year and a half.My truck got a new water pump, thermostat, upper n lower hoses, and new oversized rad. Now my guage dosent go above the O-R of NORMAL but stays above the Normal line above the C up to R of NORMAL. Im stumped as well as ive burped the system at least a dozen times. I think when i replace my core support ill be replaceing the thermostat with a MOTORCRAFT one.
 






Here is the definition of "wildly swings" on my X. When accelerating in gear after temperature is warm, the gauge swings quickly to max and check engine light comes on. If I release throttle and coast, the temperature goes back to normal. If not in gear and depress throttle the temperature gauge holds steady. Every once in a while the needle does not come back into normal. If anybody has a solution or recommendation to this let me know. I'm going to try to burp the system and check the gauge. We have new thermostat, new bypass hose(it had a cut in it), new temperature sending unit. I have 220,000 on the 5.0.

Bill
 






I've got a 1996 Expo, just put in new radiator, hoses, fan and water pump per Ford. It ran fine before I did all this, but now temp gauge fluctuates under the halfway mark. I keep topping it off with fluid, even replaced the radiator cap. Had the thermostat replaced years ago, but could that be the problem, or is it air? Seems coincidental to be thermostat. Friend telling me to put in 180 thermostat. Heater and a/c run fine as well. Any thoughts?
 






I've got a 1996 Expo, just put in new radiator, hoses, fan and water pump per Ford. It ran fine before I did all this, but now temp gauge fluctuates under the halfway mark. I keep topping it off with fluid, even replaced the radiator cap. Had the thermostat replaced years ago, but could that be the problem, or is it air? Seems coincidental to be thermostat. Friend telling me to put in 180 thermostat. Heater and a/c run fine as well. Any thoughts?
 






Here is the definition of "wildly swings" on my X. When accelerating in gear after temperature is warm, the gauge swings quickly to max and check engine light comes on. If I release throttle and coast, the temperature goes back to normal. If not in gear and depress throttle the temperature gauge holds steady. Every once in a while the needle does not come back into normal. If anybody has a solution or recommendation to this let me know. I'm going to try to burp the system and check the gauge. We have new thermostat, new bypass hose(it had a cut in it), new temperature sending unit. I have 220,000 on the 5.0.

Bill

I think you will find that the wire for the gauge sending unit is grounding when the motor rocks over under acceleration. Just reving the engine will not cause the engine to rock as much as it will under load. The check engine light may be the ECM temp sensor grounding as well. Posting this question in the correct forum and not the First Gen forum may get you a better answer as the First Gen's never had the 5.0 or the OBDII diagnostic system.
 






I've got a 1996 Expo, just put in new radiator, hoses, fan and water pump per Ford. It ran fine before I did all this, but now temp gauge fluctuates under the halfway mark. I keep topping it off with fluid, even replaced the radiator cap. Had the thermostat replaced years ago, but could that be the problem, or is it air? Seems coincidental to be thermostat. Friend telling me to put in 180 thermostat. Heater and a/c run fine as well. Any thoughts?

The right angle wire connector for the temp gauge sensor can become loose or tarnished and during engine vibration may cause an intermittent connection. This could explain your readings
 






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