the more i fix the worse it gets | Ford Explorer Forums

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the more i fix the worse it gets

Joined
July 8, 2007
Messages
37
Reaction score
1
City, State
surrey bc canada
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 explorer xlt
it all started with a bit of a spudder so i cleand the plugs it got worse then i replaced the plugs all together (and yes one at a time so not to make mistake) then it was worse. it now runs like its only firing on 4-5 so i thought mabye the wires they look kinda old been there since i bought him (1year ago) so i replaced them too still runs like ****. not sure what now, thinking must be a fuel prob of some kind, low presure,cloged filter ,pluged injecter. idles ok but sputters every few minutes and doesn't want to go when in gear and under load. :(i dunno any ideas would be nice thanxs:roll::salute:
 



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You could try pulling the codes....

Also try putting a timing light on each plug wire to make sure there are no intermittent misses. I tracked down a faulty coil pack on my father's B2500(Ranger) several times that way. Bad oxygen sensors have also caused intermittent missing on vehicles I've owned, but that should be revealed with a code check.
 






fix it.

Hey wut up bud, this sound a little bit like my car when i blew my upper and lower intake gasket?. If 91 -94 is the same as 95-01. Hope this help :) I tried new wires, plug and even try pulling the codes , nothing. Try that, cheers.
 






Try checking/replacing the fuel filter. Had that happen to a guy at work with a Forerunner. He changed the plugs, wires and then checked the filter which was very dirty. Once he changed it the problem went away.
 






Have you tried pulling the plug wires one at a time with it running to see if it's related to a specific cylinder? Also, check the vacuum connections on the vacuum tree located drivers side near the firewall.
 






i have now replaced fuel filter and even the cat but still runs like ****. i loaded up on fuel injecter cleaners and even put in a litre of methel hydrate in case there was water in the tank i also put in octane booster and the good juice (gas) and drove it for two days and still runs like **** i have contacted a friend who is a semi retired mechanic but worked full time on ford back when this truck was new til only a few years ago. hopen he will help. now one explanation i got for this problem from a current mechanic who said it was eather a bent push rod or a sticky valve. my gut said money grab do any of you think they could be right or was my gut right?????????? any way waiting for scan but that will come on sat hopen for a fix soon. thanxs for your sugestions. keep them comming.:rolleyes::(:salute::roll:
 






Check all the fuel related items...injectors, pump pressure, etc.
 






so i went to my buddies and learned a few things. one important one was that my 94 explorer has no check engine light(what the f@*k). after thinking there might be a problem with the light itself i pulled the gauge cover and checked to find not only was there no bulb, but no conection at all, no socket or wires, just a hole?????????????. so that explains why there was no check eng light on and now makes this problem a little harder to figure out. we tested the spark and its good, so the coil pack seems fine.he used his stethascope to listen for any internal problems and and said it all sounds good except for the miss. we also did a compresion check on all the cylenders and it was all good but noticed like before the #5 spark plug was slightly fouled, not as bad as the old one but noticably diferent. so we checked the fuel presure and noted the first check the presure droped of rather quickly and when we checked it again it held fine then we tried again and it droped of again, so my buddy figures its a bad injecter but im still inclined to get a proper scan so i dont fix any more things that aren't related to this problem any one have any other ideas????:(:rolleyes::salute::roll:
 






Thats weird that it has no CEL.....was it used when you bought it?

As for codes, you still need to pull em. You can use a volt meter to do it as well, or get the check engine light working and do it that way
 






I would imagine if the check engine light and wires were missing someone intentionally removed them. This isn't a part that just happened to be missed durring assembly...

As someone removed this I would bet dollars to donuts that you are looking at a major fix, if I were you I'd start pricing rebuilt engines. You can usually find places that install rebuilt engines for under $1k, or you can check the junkyard and find one for about $200.
 






I would imagine if the check engine light and wires were missing someone intentionally removed them. This isn't a part that just happened to be missed durring assembly....

its missing in my 94 sport also. found that out last week. had driving problems an waited for the light to come on. checked codes an there they where,thought blub was burnt out so i went to replace it. theres noting there to replace it with.
 






Usually used car people will do that if they determine that fixing the issue causing the light to be on is too expensive, or they just don't care...its illegal for them to do it though.

As for the whole socket thing missing though...I cant remember if the light is a direct connection to the instrument clusters PCB, as Ive only had the dash apart once.
 






and it was all good but noticed like before the #5 spark plug was slightly fouled, :(:rolleyes::salute::roll:

You need new intake gaskets. #5 plug is being fouled by tiny amounts of coolant leaking into that cylinder. Been there, done that.....
 






so i saw in my canadian tire flyer this week that code pullers are on sale so i went and had a look and found the one for my truck (obd-1 ford code puller) it was only $50 (around $75 at the shop to have it scanned) so i picked one up and pulled the codes finally. guess what code came up! anyone? code 157 and code 158. thats right it's the mother f@#*Kn MAF sensor. ordered it today wiil get it tommorow and let you know what happens . Wish me luck boys and girls.:mad::salute:
 






ok so i put in the new maf sensor and erased all the codes then let it run for a minute and ran all the codes again and this time it pulled a 137 . now its the god dam o2 sensor so off i go to the parts store again (they know me there by name now) so i put in the two o2 sensors at $80 each and erased the codes again and ran them again and it was 111 (no faults code)across the board so i run the cylender test and it checks out fine ,However it still chokes out under load so i run the curciut test and their fine too. now im stumped. compresion check was fine, fuel pressure check was fine too, it's got new plugs, new wires, new coil pack, new maf , 2 new o2's , new cat. i cleaned and oiled my K&N air filter. so im at a loss. i don't know what else to do so if any one has any resonable ideas please let me know. thanks
 






have you looked into the egr system. the dpfe is know to put out codes that dont lead to it, more like everything else but it. i think the dpfe is messing up causing the problems. an cause its giving bad readings it cause the o2 an mass air to give wrong readings. before you go changing out parts check to see if part is ok 1st.get yourself a multi meter even the cheap 1s will help you out.
 






so here is the update i did a voltage check on the dpfe and it failed so i replaced it and still no change so i went back to the start and pretended like i had done nothing at all. i started with the plugs and they were dirty but ok so on i went to the wires i pulled them one at a time and tested them and guess what!!! the three short wires to the pass side cylenders all had over 10,000. oms of resistance they were falty, so i went and got new ones (after i tested the new ones , all ok) i replaced the older new ones and the truck runs fine, problem gone, drives good, no stutter. i took back the wires and got my money back. alls good now thanks for all the helpfull advise and tips :thumbsup::):salute:

p.s. the plug wires that were bad are the same kind i always use and the same kind i replaced them with bosch platnum.
 






glad to hear you found your problem.
i bet you had them crappy neouff wires on there from crappy tire. iv watch them pos melt down in 15 min. pure garbage, better off using speaker wire.
canadian tires bosh wires aint much better, they like to break off at the terminals.so keep a look out for it to arking in the boot,if this is what you have.
 






Usually used car people will do that if they determine that fixing the issue causing the light to be on is too expensive, or they just don't care...its illegal for them to do it though.

I'm guessing the reason they don't have the CEL is that are both driving Canadian vehicles. CEL's started as a way to report emissions problems and weren't required in Canada at the time. No manufacturer would put a light to let you know your car was malfunctioning until it was required...

Cheers!

John
 



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