The time has come to make repairs...unfortunately for my wallet...

[AlexSport'00]

koda, I've got a plan for it now and it'll work, I've got a mechanic who will sorta drill it out and rethread it once he gets the parts. But yeah, I was turning it the correct way. And I was using my breaker bar plus about 4 feet of thick PVC pipe on the end. The only thing I managed was to start stripping the hex, which really surprised me. And Tires Plus said they couldn't get it off with their air tools without risking severely damaging the oil pan. But the guy who's gonna drill it is a trusted friend of my mechanic/friend/powdercoater guy (lol he needs a better name) and an ex-ford tech, so I assume it'll work after he's done rethreading; I trust him.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

koda, I've got a plan for it now and it'll work, I've got a mechanic who will sorta drill it out and rethread it once he gets the parts. But yeah, I was turning it the correct way. And I was using my breaker bar plus about 4 feet of thick PVC pipe on the end. The only thing I managed was to start stripping the hex, which really surprised me. And Tires Plus said they couldn't get it off with their air tools without risking severely damaging the oil pan.

Seems like people are way over reaching on this job. Most likely the pan threads are galled from somebody cross threading it but any air wrench with a properly fitting socket should pop that right out. Maybe if someone welded that drain plug in place I could see drilling. But its a steel bolt in an aluminum pan - 500 pound ft of torque will shear the threads. Clean up the hole, run a tap (aluminum is very easy to cut) and grab a new larger bolt to fit the size you just created. This should be a 20 minute job at the very most sitting on a pair of ramps.

 

[Texan01]

I just did bearings in mine. The races were done along with the bearings themselves, after 150,000 miles. I put in SKF units from Napa, besure to pack the grease in the bearings well, or you'll wind up wearing them out in short order, or having them weld together and then you have a groove worn in the spindle or a twisted spindle (saw it happen on a Model A Ford)

Changing races isn't hard, but it does require a decent hammer and a good punch.

Mine's got a good oil leak going from the pan as well. It's next on my list of things to do.

 

[colintrax]

Really, the bolt shouldn't be stuck that bad. Buy these http://www.sears.com/grip-tite-7-pc...p-00934506000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
and you won't have to worry about rounding it (mine's partially rounded but these still get it out) oh and air tools make life way easier, just don't use it to put the new bolt in....
Once the bolt is out, take it to a hardware store or the auto parts store and get a drain bolt that is the same length but fatter (the inside of the threads on the new bolt should be larger than the overall diameter of the old bolt) ask an employee to help ya out with what tap and drill bit you need for that bolt. Drilling the new hole is easy, just be careful of how far the drill goes into the oil pan once it breaks through the hole.
Now the tap will probably come with directions, but it isn't hard. Start the tap off completely straight. If you aren't straight there will be some problems. Use a level if you want, or just look at it really good before you start. Now spray some cutting oil on the tap (wd 40 will work if you don't own cutting oil) and turn it in a turn or 2, back up a half turn and turn it in another turn, back up a half turn, and turn it in another turn. Keep repeating and applying oil until you've cut all the way in.
I'd suggest you dump some oil in the motor and wait for it to start pouring out the bottom before you put the new bolt it. This will wash out any cutting oil, and metal chips you got into the engine.

Wheel bearings are easy, take off the caliber and bam. There ya go. Make sure you grease the new ones...

Rear main seal is up to you, mine leaks but it's not bad at all. I wouldn't suggest you try that yourself, let a shop handle it. How much oil do you lose in a month?

 

[smclelland84]

Wheel Bearing

Got to rockauto.com

Part number seach for your wheel bearings

Inners: SET5
Outer: SET2
Oil Seals: 9150S

You will need two of everything above. I did mine in March and its not hard, My Races were pretty badly scored so I replaced them with a brass punch and a lot of elbow grease but if yours are still good you can prolly get away with it. BTW these are timkin bearings...worth the extra cash. The whole cost of this order to FL is under $40 before you use your 5% discount.

 

[AlexSport'00]

Seems like people are way over reaching on this job. Most likely the pan threads are galled from somebody cross threading it but any air wrench with a properly fitting socket should pop that right out. Maybe if someone welded that drain plug in place I could see drilling. But its a steel bolt in an aluminum pan - 500 pound ft of torque will shear the threads. Clean up the hole, run a tap (aluminum is very easy to cut) and grab a new larger bolt to fit the size you just created. This should be a 20 minute job at the very most sitting on a pair of ramps.

Really, the bolt shouldn't be stuck that bad. Buy these http://www.sears.com/grip-tite-7-pc...p-00934506000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
and you won't have to worry about rounding it (mine's partially rounded but these still get it out) oh and air tools make life way easier, just don't use it to put the new bolt in....
Once the bolt is out, take it to a hardware store or the auto parts store and get a drain bolt that is the same length but fatter (the inside of the threads on the new bolt should be larger than the overall diameter of the old bolt) ask an employee to help ya out with what tap and drill bit you need for that bolt. Drilling the new hole is easy, just be careful of how far the drill goes into the oil pan once it breaks through the hole.
Now the tap will probably come with directions, but it isn't hard. Start the tap off completely straight. If you aren't straight there will be some problems. Use a level if you want, or just look at it really good before you start. Now spray some cutting oil on the tap (wd 40 will work if you don't own cutting oil) and turn it in a turn or 2, back up a half turn and turn it in another turn, back up a half turn, and turn it in another turn. Keep repeating and applying oil until you've cut all the way in.
I'd suggest you dump some oil in the motor and wait for it to start pouring out the bottom before you put the new bolt it. This will wash out any cutting oil, and metal chips you got into the engine.

Ok, I can't get the darn thing off. I'm not using (nor buying) air tools at the moment. I've worked out a good deal with someone who's done this before and won't mess it up (like I would probably do while drilling out the hole). He might just use air tools to take the bolt out, I'm not sure on the specifics, but he's gonna do it, and this way it'll be guaranteed.

Wheel bearings are easy, take off the caliber and bam. There ya go. Make sure you grease the new ones...

Rear main seal is up to you, mine leaks but it's not bad at all. I wouldn't suggest you try that yourself, let a shop handle it. How much oil do you lose in a month?

I just did bearings in mine. The races were done along with the bearings themselves, after 150,000 miles. I put in SKF units from Napa, besure to pack the grease in the bearings well, or you'll wind up wearing them out in short order, or having them weld together and then you have a groove worn in the spindle or a twisted spindle (saw it happen on a Model A Ford)

Changing races isn't hard, but it does require a decent hammer and a good punch.

Mine's got a good oil leak going from the pan as well. It's next on my list of things to do.

Yeah, I'll be able to do the bearings and stuff, so that's good. And my leak isn't too bad. Between oil changes there's no noticeable amount of oil missing when I check my oil level; it's a few drips a day. So I'm gonna wait for a bit to do that, and I'll either have a shop do it or get someone who's very experienced to help.

Got to rockauto.com

Part number seach for your wheel bearings

Inners: SET5
Outer: SET2
Oil Seals: 9150S

You will need two of everything above. I did mine in March and its not hard, My Races were pretty badly scored so I replaced them with a brass punch and a lot of elbow grease but if yours are still good you can prolly get away with it. BTW these are timkin bearings...worth the extra cash. The whole cost of this order to FL is under $40 before you use your 5% discount.

Thank you my good sir! This is what I've been needing, haha. Everything is easier with lists. Soon enough I'll have this done and Sport will be happy Also just picked up a set of 4-door leaf packs so I'll be doing that mod soon. It's gonna be great.
Thanks for all the help guys!
And anyone else's advice is welcome, especially about the bearings!

 

[smclelland84]

Dont forget to pick up some cotter pins and a tub of Valvoline VV632, its a grease made for fords. I have a 99 Sport 2wd and ive been through this twice...Im in Orlando so if your close to here or need help with anything PM me and ill see what I can do to help.

 

[AlexSport'00]

Dont forget to pick up some cotter pins and a tub of Valvoline VV632, its a grease made for fords. I have a 99 Sport 2wd and ive been through this twice...Im in Orlando so if your close to here or need help with anything PM me and ill see what I can do to help.

I'm in Jax, so a little to far for help, but if I have an issue I'll be sure to contact you. Thanks so much!

 

[MrWizard]

You'll find replacing the wheel bearings on a 2WD to be quite easy compared to 4WD.
I replaced my rotors at the same time so it was even easier.
The main difference from the excellent 4WD write-up mentioned earlier, is the 2WD spindle nut is held on with inch-pounds of torque,
vs the axle nut on the 4WD requires a seriously big wrench and a lot of torque.

Removed the brake caliper,
remove the axle dust cap,
remove the spindle cotter pin,
remove the spindle cap,
removed the spindle nut.

The rotor just slides right off. Should be no effort at all.

Remove the inner bearing race. Again, just slides off.
Lube new inner race/bearing.
Insert.
If you're replacing the integral hub/rotor at the same time, just lube the outer race/bearing inside the rotor,
and slide the rotor assembly onto the spindle. ( You're supposed to use a brand-new spindle nut, cap, and cotter
pin - since the old ones may be metal-fatigued. )
Tighten spindle nut. Again the torque spec is inch-pounds, not foot-pounds for 2WD. Don't overtighten the nut or the bearings will fail prematurely.
Add spindle cap,
Insert cotter pin. - You may have to adjust the spindle nut a bit to get the cotter pin to go though the spindle cap.
Put dust cap back on.
Put brake caliper back on.

btw, you have to be incredibly scrupulously clean when applying the bearing grease and make sure every surface is covered.
If there is even a tiny particle of dust, brake dust, etc. the bearings will fail in a few thousand miles.
This is an easy job.

 

[bobflood]

You'll find replacing the wheel bearings on a 2WD to be quite easy compared to 4WD.
I replaced my rotors at the same time so it was even easier.
The main difference from the excellent 4WD write-up mentioned earlier, is the 2WD spindle nut is held on with inch-pounds of torque,
vs the axle nut on the 4WD requires a seriously big wrench and a lot of torque.

Removed the brake caliper,
remove the axle dust cap,
remove the spindle cotter pin,
remove the spindle cap,
removed the spindle nut.

The rotor just slides right off. Should be no effort at all.

Remove the inner bearing race. Again, just slides off. On mine, there is a bearing seal that holds the inner bearing in the hub that needs to be removed; it will have to be replaced.
Lube new inner race/bearing.
Insert.
If you're replacing the integral hub/rotor at the same time, just lube the outer race/bearing inside the rotor,
and slide the rotor assembly onto the spindle. ( You're supposed to use a brand-new spindle nut, cap, and cotter pin - since the old ones may be metal-fatigued. ) I have reused these multiple times with no problem. Tighten spindle nut. Again the torque spec is inch-pounds, not foot-pounds for 2WD. Don't overtighten the nut or the bearings will fail prematurely.
Add spindle cap,
Insert cotter pin. - You may have to adjust the spindle nut a bit to get the cotter pin to go though the spindle cap.
Put dust cap back on.
Put brake caliper back on.

btw, you have to be incredibly scrupulously clean when applying the bearing grease and make sure every surface is covered.
If there is even a tiny particle of dust, brake dust, etc. the bearings will fail in a few thousand miles.
This is an easy job. I agree completely

 

[AlexSport'00]

Thanks MrWizard and bobflood! Hopefully I'll get to do it soon.

 

[AlexSport'00]

Still haven't done the wheel bearing yet. I'm beginning to wonder, should I replace just the bearing, or buy two new hub assemblies? I keep finding all these guys who replace the entire hub rather than just the bearings. It doesn't seem necessary, but the vehicle is almost 13 years old now...and so are these parts, so should I just replace them all, or just the wheel bearings? The wallet says just bearings...the fear of this thing flipping says do it all.

 

[alohamonte]

+1 Hubs

I replaced the factory hubs around 150k

 

[AlexSport'00]

You are fighting my wallet sir... haha I knew that would be the answer, but I didn't want it. I'm at 130k though so I might as well just do the whole ordeal.
Anyone else's opinion on the subject?

 

[bobflood]

Still haven't done the wheel bearing yet. I'm beginning to wonder, should I replace just the bearing, or buy two new hub assemblies? I keep finding all these guys who replace the entire hub rather than just the bearings. It doesn't seem necessary, but the vehicle is almost 13 years old now...and so are these parts, so should I just replace them all, or just the wheel bearings? The wallet says just bearings...the fear of this thing flipping says do it all.

If you still have the original hubs, that means you have the original front brake rotors, since on the 2WD models they are all one piece. That is a long time for rotors - I also vote for replacing the hubs. Good luck.

 

[AlexSport'00]

If you still have the original hubs, that means you have the original front brake rotors, since on the 2WD models they are all one piece. That is a long time for rotors - I also vote for replacing the hubs. Good luck.

Are you sure? That doesn't seem like a logical set up...

 

[bobflood]

Are you sure? That doesn't seem like a logical set up...

I'm sure - it may not be logical, but that is how the 2WD front ends are set up. I have changed them out several time on my 97 Explorer, and there is a similar setup on my wife's 98 2WD Lincoln Navigator (which is just an F150 underneath). The setup on the 4WDs is different - with separate rotors and hubs - due to the front drive axles. At some point in time I'm expect Ford changed the 2WD front ends to separate hubs and rotors, but not on the Gen 2 Explorers.

 

[AlexSport'00]

Even by the year 2000? Ugh, they were still made in the 20th century. Guess that knowledge of separate rotors wasn't around yet...lol

 

[AlexSport'00]

Now I must convince my father that this is the only real option if I want to do it right...either that or shell out the cash by myself. Being a college kid is a tricky time in life, trying to get what you can still from your parents while trying not to go broke from college expenses and expenses on toys...like this here Sport.

 

[AlexSport'00]

Also, by replacing the hubs I meant replacing the whole hub assembly. Sorry for any confusion. I even confused myself with the terms (not too experienced with this part of the vehicle...)