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the yellow check engine light is on, what am gonna do?

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I am new driver, now I am really anxious.

I just bought a used 98 explorer last month. The yellow check engine light is on. The dealer (not Ford dealer) who sold me car is very bad. He refused to repair the car for me. Actually, the light was on after one week after I bought the car. He used the code reader to check the car, the reader show "bank 2 too lean". He said the number 2 sparkle plug need to be changed. He said, if change, he will change all 6 plugs. It will cost $200-250. What am I gonna do? Some people also had the light on, they use fuel injector cleaner, is that useful? what should I do?
I am appreciated for your help. Thanks.
 



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Welcome!
It will help immensely if you provide a bit more information about your vehicle, like engine (there were three different engine options in the 1998 Ex), mileage, some history (if known). If you don't know the engine, read the VIN off the label under the windshield in front of the driver or from your insurance card. The engine code is the 8th character. It will be X (4.0L OHV), E (4.0L SOHC), or P( 5.0L).
It will also help to know what the exact trouble code was -- that would be something like Pxxxx. You can have it read for free at many auto parts stores. Or, if you are willing to spend $100 or so, buy a simple reader - you will find it useful.
For the time being, I would ignore the dealer's 'diagnosis'. The people who work on used car lots know how to sell, but more often than not have no clue what's under the hood -- even if they are selling the dealership brand.
 






thank you so much

the VIN is 1FMZU34E4WUA81259
The engine is 4.0L V6 EFI

I just rmember the code is "bank 2 too lean" , maybe I will try again.
Do you think I need a simple code reader? thanks
 






You may need a code reader if you think and or can repair your own car, if you cannot repair your own car you can get codes pulled at many auto parts store in an attempt to sell you parts.
If you do not plan to repair your own car a relationship with a good mechanic would be more useful than a code reader.

That particular vehicle has a common problem with leaky intake manifolds gaskets causing air leaks resulting in lean conditions.
 






I don't know much about this engine; will let those in the know to advise you on the lean code (assuming it's what you are saying, it should be P0174). If you search the posts here, you will find that this engine is notorious for intake manifold gasket problems, which lead to lean mixture, but it could definitely be something else, and a bit of systematic diagnosis is needed. Knowing the exact codes (there may be more than one) will help.
If you want to do a bit of your own maintenance, or even get more than crude guesses from the members here, have a way of reading trouble codes -- whether it's by a tool that you own, or by a friendly parts store.

Above all, take it easy. The sky is not falling because of a CEL being on, and this community will certainly help you out of trouble!
 






Is he charging $200-250 to change plugs? As far as your CEL being on, how does it run and drive?

Chris
 






Take a deep breath!

To the original poster:

You mentioned that you purchased the vehicle from a non-Ford dealer. Did you obtain a power train warranty? Probably not, because otherwise the dealer would not be asking you to pay for repairs.

You said that you are a new driver and a first-time owner, which clearly leads to a lot of stress when discoveriing that your very first set of wheels is not perfect. Nothing is perfect, and certainly not a 13-year old vehicle. The good news is that if that illuminated CEL is your only problem with it, you are in very good shape.

It seems that this is the first time that you are taking a good look under the hood, and doing any repairs on your own is over your head.

In my humble opinion, the last thing that you should do is to pay that dealer for plug replacement. Although replacing plugs on a used vehicle with unknown history is certainly a good thing, it probably won't solve the problem, and that dealer - even if he has some mechanical skills - appears not to know anything about Explorers anyway.

My advice would be to take a deep breath, ask friends for recommendations about a trustworthy and inexpensive shop, and take your new baby there, not just for fixing what's causing the lean code, but to give it a good look over, especially from a safety perspective.

Best of luck!
 






So folks have poo-poo'd this advice before, but I stand behind it...

For a new driver, with a new-to-them, used vehicle, I always recommend picking up a basic repair manual, such as those offered by Chilton or Haynes.

Why do this, if you are going to have a mechanic work on it?

Because they have relatively simple repair instructions, with lots of pics, diagrams, names of various parts, and troubleshooting steps.

This knowledge is invaluable when discussing a repair issue with a mechanic. You can tell him/her what you are experiencing, what component you think may be the issue, and it helps to calibrate your own personal bull$#*+ meter to better help determine if they are jacking you around.

I grew up with a manual for each and every vehicle I owned. Didn't know much about cars/trucks when I started driving, and didn't get a lot of help from my father, as he's not a very accomplished backyard mechanic. At first, it was a foreign language to me. Yet studying the diagrams and repair/replacement instructions of the various systems found in a vehicle gradually educated me.
 






how can i fix the odometer and trip meter on a 1996 ranger Xlt?
 






first thing i bought when i got my Explorer was a can-obd2 code reader,
with that you can find out why the light is on by yourself and go about making repairs easily,,
at the same time i got a Chilton manual,,
 






Thanks for everyone

Under your guys' help, I feel much better. I was really scared.

So far, the car is running well for me, except the CEL in on. Another thing is, when I change to AWD mode and when I make a turn, I can feel there is a noise. If I drive straight on AWD mode, there is no noise, and there is no noise when I drive AUTO mode no matter what direction. The car is clean and look nice. Before I bought it, the dealer told me the car was passed the safety inspection required by the Ontario government, and he gave me the certificate. I am not sure if he was cheating me. After that, I drove the car to a mechanic (I heard he is good for GM car, but not Ford car) . The mechanic told me the car is good right now without any problem. However, the CEL was on after that. The only thing I did is, I fill the gas to the tank. It was number 87. The dealer told me the number 87 gas is fine. That is why I fill number 87 gas.

Anyway, as a novice, it is first car for me, it is long way to go. I will the code reader on ebay. Maybe it will take a week.

Again, thanks, everyone here. I am appreciated.
 






Regarding the sound when it is in 4 wheel drive, don't engage 4 wheel drive on drive pavement, it will end up breaking stuff. 4 wheel drive needs only to be engaged in snowy, or muddy conditions. Other than that leave it in Auto. The reason it makes no noise in Auto is that it runs in 2wd, but will automatically engage 4 wheel drive if slippage is detected. 4x4 high and 4x4 low lock the 4 wheel drive in.

Just keep up on the maintenance and it will treat you well.
 






And from what Sport97 said, if you were driving on any dry pavement or even dry then turning wet at all, that would be a normal noise for your vehicle.
 






I gaurantee he reset the check engine light and it just took a week to come back on

bank too lean is NOT a spark plug IMO

I would lean (no pun intended) to intake gaskets
 






Almost certainly, a P1000 'OBD-2 monitor testing not complete' trouble code existed when the OP purchased the vehicle. The mechanic who checked the vehicle should have noticed it and advised him about the CEL being recently turned off and that it probably means the dealer's attempt to hide trouble. He either didn't bother to scan or didn't have a scanner.

In this neck of the woods a used car dealer has to provide an emissions inspection certificate, and it won't be issued with P1000 stored.
Experience is a great teacher...
 






Round here many sub $5000 used car from a "corner dealy" will have a check engine light spring on a week after you get it. They seem to put new batteries in them all tho so when you go to crank them up to go.
Many used cars have marginal tires and will need atleast an axles worth of brakes within the first year of ownership, a repair here and there beats payments for a daily driver.
 






Check out Princess Auto for an OBDII reader. I got mine there for like $29.99.

Much like you, when I bought my 1998 Explorer XLT just over 2 years ago I also had the CEL light up. I bought the reader and found out it was lean codes for both banks. The truck ran fine though and the good people on this forum told me it was probably intake gaskets (and they where right!), so I just kept driving it until I had the time to fix it. Not a big deal to fix.

The reader is actually a really good tool to have. I also have a Mustang and had the CEL light go on recently. The reader said it was an Evap Canister Leak - Very Small. I poked around the canister and discovered a loose hose on a T-fitting. Tightened it up and no more CEL. Ford probably would have replaced the whole top end of my motor.

On some of the later OBDII vehicles it can pull the VIN from the computer. If you or a friend are ever buying a used vehicle it is invaluable. And even if you are not ever going to fix anything yourself you can always check and see what it is saying before going to the mechanic. A word of warning: once your friends find out you have it they will be standing at your door saying: "my CEL lights on, can I use your reader?".

Good luck with your new Explorer and enjoy! Mine just keeps growing on me the more I drive it!
 






Now, I buy a code reader from Innova company. I connect it to my car, it say P0174 and P0171. I check with the company website. Those code means:

MIL DTC P0174
Fuel System Too Lean (Cylinder Bank 2)

Pending Codes
P0171
Fuel System Too Lean (Cylinder Bank 1)

Do I need to fix it? If I do, how much is that? Thanks
 



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I also notice the I/M monitor status, the C and EV were flashing. In the owner' manual, C is Catalyst monitor and EV is EVAP system monitor. Are these serious? I have no idea how to fix this.
 






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