thinkin bout thrownin in the towel and goin solid

[sn0border88]

the tie rod and drag link both look wayyy bent.

I know from experience that stock tie rods once bent wont last long.

 

[mudbug94]

ok so as i get closer to gettin the 400 in its final resting place, i am absolutly stumped as to how i am gunna cool this monster....any clues??? oh and btw the radiator that came from the original truck is out of the question...

 

[IZwack]

4-core radiator from a Suburban + Ford Taurus fan (or the Mark 7s and 8s).

 

[mudbug94]

what about the one out of the explorer but w/o a t-stat?

 

[IZwack]

I'd put a stat in no matter what -- and a very tight shroud. But the Explorer radiator might work -- not like you're going to be at WOT for very long.

 

[mudbug94]

not like you're going to be at WOT for very long.

would long constitute as less than 5 min ? if so thats out of the question...

 

[94 Crawler]

Those 400m's rum pretty cool but you are going to have to do some serious radiator core mods to get a sizeable radiator in place. The ex 4 row is just enough for my 5.0 I'm concidering a larger core down the road.

 

[Dannyboy]

Put the radiator someplace like on a roof rack, underneath, etc.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer06/remote_radiator.htm

 

[mudbug94]

Put the radiator someplace like on a roof rack, underneath, etc.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer06/remote_radiator.htm

good idea on paper but the way i wheel its askin for trouble...

 

[mudbug94]

what about swapping out the frames....ive been having alot of issues with ...well width....i know it would be alot of work but im starting to think maybe a full width frame....but if so what should i use...? i can get a 78 f 250 frame for free should i give it a shot? or look for a bronco frame?

 

[Burns]

Why are you having a width prob?

Please explain further

 

[IZwack]

Some 2x4 rectangular tubing and you can make your own frame

If you're having problems with fitting the engine between the two frame rails, then you'll probably have more problems fitting the proper transfer case. The chassis im building is 29" between the two rails and I might end up angling the engine, trans, and transfer case combo a few degrees -- which is no big deal for the front driveshaft (since it is a double cardan) but this means converting to a double cardan on the rear driveshaft too as a single cardan wont work due to the angle difference between the axle and the transfer case. Well it might work going at 3mph but flex that thing or go to high RPMs and it'll have vibrations (which leads to premature bearing failure) and also increases the chance of shearing a U-joint.

 

[mudbug94]

Why are you having a width prob?

Please explain further

well just to have the engine in place where its not touching any thing the water pump is even with the head lights both up and down and front and back..i dont really know if you know but the 400m it almost as wide as 2 stripped down 4.0 blocks side by side...the bell housing on the c6 (being that it has a big block bolt pattern) haslike 1/2 inch on each side from hitting the rails...i am slowly realizing that late70's running gear dosent exactly "bolt" or even weld in easy plus later down the road if i wanna put in a FI 460, it will fit... the 78 frame i was lookin at is practicly 2x7 c channel and its all flat making future mounting of anything alot easier...its stronger and its gunna be alot easier to mount the full width d60... i just realized you were thinkin about a 400m also and let me tell you, they dont make a big enough shoe horn!!

 

[94 Crawler]

do some searching at James Duff , therangerstation etc. someone has the parts to put the big block in. I dont remember where. However i did see a 460 ranger on the cover of Off Road Adventures magazine. With a fullsize bronco frame. I dont remember which month. Also there used to be a Vega on a early bronco frame down where I used to live. So anything is possible. Just remember "Going fast costs money. How fast do you want to spend it?"

 

[mudbug94]

well i did some research and it seems any 1980-91 (pre crumple zone) bronco, f150, f250, or f350 frame, preferably 250 or 350 (front leaf) frame would work and the motor and running gear would bolt up so thats what im after...i dont think it would be that hard to make the body mounts work either any thoughts? BTW, i think a mildly built 400m would snap the x frame in two...

 

[94 Crawler]

I had one in the first derby car i ran. It was a torky bioch stock with the 2bbl motorcraft carb (best derby carb ever, ran it on ford ,chevy,and chrysler) Any way I tried to blow it up held it on the floor for five min. and would not let go. Trust me stock is fine plenty of power and torque. If you want to run a 4bbl find an old shoebox. Block off the power valve up the jet size by 2, set the float down slightly call it good. Two mixture screws and not allot of moving b/s to give problems. Oh get someone who knowes alot abought distributors to set up the dist. and get the slop out of the advance you need abought 32 degrees of advance at 3k rpm (do not include vacume advance). Trash the ford ign module and get a gm module from a HEI dist. Sorry its been a while since I did this, but it works if you are interested let me know I will source a diagram and pass it on.

 

[mudbug94]

the motor is already buitlt up thats why i am fightin tooth and nail to rum it in my rig...and i got it for nothing so its happening regardles...

 

[mudbug94]

:thumbdwn::thumbdwn::thumbdwn::frustrate:frustrate:fire::fire:well i dont know how to say this.... so im just gunna....i have to end this build...(for reasons not to be discussed)...over the next few weeks i am pullin the axels and motor and parting out wats left...i apreciate the help all of you have provided both good and bad....if felt inclined, check the for sale section for parts...

 

[mudbug94]

Wow its been about a year since this project hit its prime and I just wanted to say R.I.P. DORA 1.....