Time for new shocks?

[lobo411]

Hi all,
I replaced the OEM shocks on my 1996 Explorer 4 door / 2 wd with Monroe SensaTracs about 12 years ago, putting about 50000 miles on them over the years. Over the last year or so, whenever I go over a speed bump at anything over a real crawl (and sometimes even then) I get a squeal sound that I think must be the front tire rubbing against the wheel well. I haven't noticed anything different in the truck's handling, but I think it's hard to notice something like that over 12 years. The body doesn't seem to fail the bounce test (get the truck to bouncing, then stop...it should bounce one up one down and stop in the middle).

The shocks aren't leaking and they look fine from the outside. The rubber is shot on the control arms too, but I expected to hear more of a clunking sound on turns when they went. This sounds more like a very brief tire peel out.

Any opinions would be welcome!

 

[koda2000]

12 years and 50,000 miles... yes it's time to replace your shocks.

 

[lobo411]

12 years and 50,000 miles... yes it's time to replace your shocks.

K, thanks! I saved the receipts, so I guess it's time to put that Monroe lifetime replacement to the test.

 

[koda2000]

K, thanks! I saved the receipts, so I guess it's time to put that Monroe lifetime replacement to the test.

lol, you're like me when it comes to receipts. i once bought a radiator for my '37 Ford streetrod. after 10 years it developed a hole (which was totally my fault). i called the company i bought it from to ask if they could repair it for me, explaining the damage was totally my fault. they told me that if i could produce the original receipt they's replace the radiator for free. no problem, i knew exactly where the receipt was.

 

[lobo411]

lol, you're like me when it comes to receipts. i once bought a radiator for my '37 Ford streetrod. after 10 years it developed a hole (which was totally my fault). i called the company i bought it from to ask if they could repair it for me, explaining the damage was totally my fault. they told me that if i could produce the original receipt they's replace the radiator for free. no problem, i knew exactly where the receipt was.

Ha! Nice! Hopefully my warranty exchange goes just as smoothly!

 

[SoNic67]

12 years to hold on to a receipt? Not me. That's why I order everything online now, they can remember those things for me

 

[koda2000]

12 years to hold on to a receipt? Not me. That's why I order everything online now, they can remember those things for me

i prefer to keep the paper as a lot of places will purge their electronic records after 10 years.

 

[SoNic67]

But thermal paper will fade away in 3 years... you make copies of all receipts?

 

[shadowless127]

Sounds like it could be Lower Ball Joints.

 

[swshawaii]

Ditto. After 12 years and 50k you're due for shocks although they may not be your tire rubbing issue.

Lift the vehicle from the front facing lower control arm "hooks" supported by jack stands and inspect.

 

[koda2000]

But thermal paper will fade away in 3 years... you make copies of all receipts?

the only auto parts store that uses thermal paper where i live is Autozone. i save their receipts anyway, but i've honestly never had to go back looking for one. they've never purged their records that i know of. most people that can't find their electronic receipts at AZ usually can't remember what phone number or name they put them under.

 

[my98nnj]

I wouldn't put the Sensa tracks back in even if they were free. Worst shock I ever used in the truck. Look at KYB, the ride control is much better then the Monroe's.

 

[lobo411]

Thanks for the tips, folks! Sorry my98nnj, I have to keep my costs down. This is my "around town" car now, but it needs a lot of work. The control arms do need to be replaced, but I think I can wait on that till I have more clunky noises. Or maybe I ought to do the two together (another reason to wait...I can't afford the control arms right now and it's too dang hot to work)?

I may have bigger frish to fry. I recently noticed some signs that I might have a bad head gasket, though. I'm losing coolant w/o exterior leaks, there's a tiny bit of brown gum on the radiator cap (I clean it and it comes in a few weeks), there's an exterior oil leak that I was never able to track down, and the latest sign is delayed starting. Before it used to cold start in about 3 turns/2 seconds, but lately it takes 5-6 turns/4 seconds to cold start. Hot starts are fine. No overheating/bubbles in the coolant/boilover...if anything, the dash gauge reads too cool (never gets about the bottom 1/3). Oil looks great, coolant has been flushed every 2 years since I've had it, and engine performance is otherwise fine.

I'm looking at getting either the Stant Cooling System pressure tester kit at Amazon for $73, or the coolant combustion tester kit (indicator dye changes color if there's exhaust gases in the coolant) for $50.

 

[lobo411]

Well, no diagnostic kit required. The head gasket has an external leak at #5 cylinder, which has allowed coolant to trickle down the block and down the motor mount, where it mixed with oil from my oil leak to form a greenish jelly. The same exact place where I found it leaking 11 years/50000 mi ago and replaced.

I plan to use the car as my primary vehicle when I move 150 mi away for a temporary job, so I don't think I want to touch it right now. Plus it's too hot. October would be great, assuming the car doesn't insist on a new head gasket right away.

I think it should be OK to string it out a while. I could always dump some stop leak in there in the hopes of avoiding a catastrophic failure. Last time I blew a head gasket there was practically no warning. Thoughts?

 

[jremington59]

I'm not a believer in stop leak products so a friend of mine gave me a container of K Seal when I developed a lower intake leak. It's been 10,000 miles and it still hasn't dripped a bit since putting it in. If it's just a tiny leak it will stop it for a while. The good thing is you don't have to flush your system...

 

[koda2000]

I'm looking at getting either the Stant Cooling System pressure tester kit at Amazon for $73, or the coolant combustion tester kit (indicator dye changes color if there's exhaust gases in the coolant) for $50.

you can borrow a cooling system pressure tester kit from most auto stores with just a deposit. why buy one?

as far as the delayed starting - usually fuel pump or regulator related. i've had the opposite problem with my '01 EB. it starts fine when cold, but often cranks for maybe 4 seconds when left sitting hot for 30-40 mins. it's been doing this for 2 years and hasn't gotten any worse.