Tools to Change '93 Thermostat & How to Access the 3 Bolts?

[Natch]

Greetings,

I am trying to change the thermostat in my 1993 Explorer Sport 4.0L .
I have a replacement t-stat and gasket.

The problem is that it is almost impossible to get my ratchets to access the 3 bolts. The metal radiator pipe blocks some bolts and another pipe blocks access to the right bolt.

Can someone who has changed their t-stat tell me what specific tools I need to access the 3 bolts? Any advice how to access the bolts?

Thank you for the help.

Best Regards,

Natch

 

[BKennedy]

Greetings,

I am trying to change the thermostat in my 1993 Explorer Sport 4.0L .
I have a replacement t-stat and gasket.

The problem is that it is almost impossible to get my ratchets to access the 3 bolts. The metal radiator pipe blocks some bolts and another pipe blocks access to the right bolt.

Can someone who has changed their t-stat tell me what specific tools I need to access the 3 bolts? Any advice how to access the bolts?

Thank you for the help.

Best Regards,

Natch

I used a small drive socket (1/4 in. drive) and lots of cursing. Unbolt the steel pipe that blocks the way and gently, slowly move it out of your way enough to get a bite on the bolt. I also moved everything that got in the way. Be careful when tightning the bolts on the installation cause the manifold is aluminum and very easy to strip.

 

[marragtop]

Use a thin wall 1/4" drive 10mm socket. It also helps to pull the belt off which will release the tension on the tensioner pulley to get it out of you way. Should be easy from there. If you are replacing the Tstat, remember to also replace the round gasket. You may have to ask for that seperately.

Mike

 

[LStoudenmire]

Ask your 3 yr old son with really small hands to help!

 

[Natch]

Thank you gentleman. Do you know what the metal pipe/tubing is? Also, do you know what size socket to use on that bracket. Sorry, for all the questions. I just moved and don't have my tools with me so I have to buy the tools as I go.

 

[ggaarryy]

a pox on the engineering team that designed the location for that third bolt!!!!! may they spend all eternity up to their necks is used motor oil.

patience is the key (and a LOT of swearing). actually, getting the thing OUT is hard (used open-ended wrench) but back IN even harder. I finally used some needle nose pliers to get it started and then the wrench perpendicular to tighten it most of the way -- and then lots of neposporin on the scraps on my knuckles and forearms.

by the way, make sure the little 'burper' is at 12 o'clock when you put in the new tstat -- i found that gem while searching for tips on the bolts here and sure enough mine was no where near the top. So, there's always a silver lining -- if i had replaced that 3rd bolt and THEN found out about the correct tstat position i would have exploded!

 

[FamilyTradition]

That darn little upper left bolt on my 93 XLT coming out I use a 1/4" drive with a 10mm socket. Getting it in, I used a 1/4" drive 10mm socket on a standard screw driver cleared all the obstacles no problem just get it as tight as you can then you can switch to the 1/4" drive socket wrench. No bandaids needed, had to do this couple days ago in 20 degree weather outside in NYC with the wind blowing (up hill both ways, bare foot in the snow lol). So happy now my X has heat.

 

[Glacier991]

Speakign as someone else who has also done this is the cold outside in winter, it is a b*tch. All good advice.

Glacier

ps... look at the metal hose neck, if it has corrosion, consider replacement, it almost acts like a sacrificial anode in electrolysis apparently.

 

[96eb96]

If its the same as a 96 a Gearratchet open socket (replaces deep sockets) worked on that hard to reach bolt. That set is one of my favorite tools.

 

[TedJ]

Remove the air intake, and take the fan and shroud out (get the fan clutch wrench set from autozone). Then using the oodles of space you have, remove the belt and the idler pulley at the top. Use a 1/4 ratchet, medium size extension, and a swivel. Not hard at all then.

Before you complain about pulling the fan and pulley, realize that the time spent fighting with no clearance will take a lot longer than removing the parts in the way. (Not to mention giving you room to properly scrape the old gasket off). I did mine with the radiator out when I was changing it, and had all the stuff out of the way anyway. I think at the time I thought that it was not hard at all.

 

[BKennedy]

I hope he got this worked out by now, its been nearly five years.

I don't see how the fan clutch and fan get in the way of a thermostat replacement? You are adding a good hour to a 30 minute job.

 

[TedJ]

I hope he got this worked out by now, its been nearly five years.

I don't see how the fan clutch and fan get in the way of a thermostat replacement? The housing is on the top of the engine.

WHOOPS... lol

Removing the fan/shroud gives you tons more clearance in front of the motor... so you can swing a ratchet in the space. I wouldn't do it without taking it off, it's so easy and it makes it much easier to get the tools to the job at hand.

The fan is about a 15 min or less job for me, all you have to do is take the intake pipe off (2 hoseclamps), start the fan clutch with the wrench set, and remove the two small bolts at the top of the shroud.... then unscrew the fan all the way and take it out with the shroud.

 

[Itchybruno47]

Remove the air intake, and take the fan and shroud out (get the fan clutch wrench set from autozone).

Kicking an old thread here, but for the record, I hate the fan clutch removal tools, and I hate the price of them even more. I went to home depot and snagged a two size one big none small, set of husky strap wrenches, (get the rubber ones, not the material ones, rubber has way more bite on the fan pulley, and that sucker is shiny), at 9 bucks a set, and then a stubby adjustable;le wrench for i think 8 bucks. I pounded out the end of a piece of pipe I had laying around until it was slot like and then put the stubby adjustable in the end of it and gave it a few more to snug it in. It was waaaay easier than the specialty removal tool cause once you have the strap wrench around the fan belt pulley, since the wrench is rubber, you can "lock" it in place with friction against the handle, which leaves you two free hands to put the adjustable stubby and extended pipe handle on the nut and reef the hell out of it, the harder you rank on it, the tighter the strap wrench gets...took me all of 20 minutes to get the fan and shroud out. Bonus too that i have to strap wrenches and an adjustable wrench now, for 20 bucks, and they can be used for sh*t after the job and not just for the fan clutch removal. My two cents. Message me if you want something deciphered or pics of what I am trying to convey. hahaha
IB47