Torsion Twist Q | Ford Explorer Forums

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Torsion Twist Q

ExplorerSportNu

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Joined
September 27, 2003
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City, State
St.Louis - MO
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 Sport/ExpeditionPkg
No I'm not asking how to do it :D , about a day or two after I did the twist I have a real rough sound coming from around the wheel area just on one side, it almost sounds like when your pads are about gone and there grinding, but I have checked the pads there fine and I can't find anything else in the area that this noise could be coming from, I twisted the torsion bolts almost all the way but not all the way tight, got about an 1 1/2". Anybody ever expierence anything like this after the torsion twist or have any ideas because I'm at a loss here :confused: I think someone said something about mabey greasing around the area? Any ideas guys?
 



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how many miles do you have on your truck? sounds to me like its time for a wheel bearing replacement. Go drive it around for about 30 mins then come back in and geel the hub. touch the cone where the CV shaft goes into the hub and see if one side is hot. if one side is hot it is a wheel bearing gone bad. doesnt seem to be anything wrong with the torsion twist.
 






Man I got a butload of miles - 184,000 so looks like I'm going on a lil voage here for 30 minutes :D thanx for your help man I had no idea with this one but yeah i'll get back in about 45 minutes :thumbsup:

Thanx again man
 






No need to drive around, it's the bearings. Unfortunately, they are sealed. You'll need the entire hub....it's a Ford part and they run $200-250 depending on the dealer. You'll probably need some new ball joints too...

Good luck.
 






yeah i kinda guessed it was the wheel bearings but it could be somethign jammed in teh rotor or caliper so i wanted him to make sure. You can also get our sealed wheel bearings/hub assemblies at advance auto for 150$ then go to O'reily and show them the reciept and they will give it to you for 135ish.

If you really wanna check your ball joints jack up the front end of the truck and grab the tire at the top and bottom and shake sthe wheel. if you have over a few milimeters of play it is time to replace the ball joints.
 






2001ExpSport said:
No need to drive around, it's the bearings. Unfortunately, they are sealed. You'll need the entire hub....it's a Ford part and they run $200-250 depending on the dealer. You'll probably need some new ball joints too...

Good luck.

That's only true for 4wd/awd. If it's 2wd bearings are about 25 bucks a side with the seal.
 






nissanboy said:
how many miles do you have on your truck? sounds to me like its time for a wheel bearing replacement. Go drive it around for about 30 mins then come back in and geel the hub. touch the cone where the CV shaft goes into the hub and see if one side is hot. if one side is hot it is a wheel bearing gone bad. doesnt seem to be anything wrong with the torsion twist.

Alright after doing this drive the rear two were warm to the touch but both fronts were cool to the touch, seems like you guys have narrowed it down to bearings reagaurdless? I don't know much about this area but this is most likely still bearings? I can feel slight vibrations in the pedal when giving it gas and dosent seem to get real noisey until I get going.

One more question can I tighten the torsion bolts all the way, I still can get about 2-3 turns before there flush with the body and I only got about an inch and a half in lift from the original turn?
 






you can tighten them as much as you like... just remember after you get more than ~2" it starts to be rough ont he cv shafts supposedly. I got mine cranked enough to give me 3" with no problems so far in 50k miles.

before you drop all that money on wheel bearings go ahead and nd make sure you dont have anything in the brake calipers or between the dust shield and rotor that could be making your grinding noise. If its all clear then go ahead and get you a wheel bearing.
 






Alright is there a way I can make sure which wheel needs the bearing, I'm pretty sure from the sound I think I have it narrowed down to the correct one but not postive after I check the calipers & shield?
 






put it on jack stands and take th front wheels off and rotate the hub by hand.... you will be able to feel a slight notch or grind in one of them if it is bad.
 






Sweet thanx man, will report back later with findings
 






:confused: :confused: :confused: Alright after removing both front wheels and cleaning & checking (calpiers, rotors, brake pads) everything the noise is still there, I rotated both hubs, musta been a million different times and I couldn't feel any notches or grinds, now I don't know if this is me not wanting to hear or feel this due to the amount of money I have to shell out... or if there actually wasnt any, should I just suck it up go get one of these and put it in? It dosent sound like you guys think it could be much else huh? **** the cheapest place around here was 165 plus tax, I think advanced wanted 198 plus tax :eek: So what ya think nissian my new mechanic/advisor - appreciate all the help man! :chug:
 






put the wheel bearing in and see if the noise goes away.... if it dont take it back apart and put the old one back on and take the part back to the part store and post back up and ill look mor ein depth at what the noise could be.
 






Alright I don't get off work till later so I will just plan on doing that, two things too add to the equation but I don't know if they make any difference or not, while working on the wheel a couple of weeks ago I pulled the abs sensor wire out & broke it that goes right by the rotor and now the abs light on the dash is on but that was on a couple days before this problem or noise arised, and the rubber knuckle or rubber gaurd that goes directly towards the tire has a small hole and it appears that grease is leaking out through the hole and this is all on the same tire or wheel where the noise I believe is coming from.
 






the rubber cv-boot has a hole in it and all the grease is gone that very well could be the problem causing the noise. Inside that boot there are 3 large bearings that are constantly moving in and out as the shaft rotates. THats how the CV works. If you dont have any grease in there to lube it up it can cause a grinding noise. if you go ahead and pull the cv shaft and take the boot off that has a hole init oyu might be able to get a replacement boot fomr a part store and repack it with grease. Id check at the part store first though.

And as for the ABS wire if you broke the connector off in the hub you will get a new wire when you buy the replacement wheel bearing.
 






Hey nissan, got the new boot and got the old one off, how do I get those bearings too disconnect so I can slip the new boot on? If you don't understand give me a number I can call you at too explain.

Thanx man
 






336-406-0972

if you get instant messenger i can IM you detailed pictures from my service manuals.
 






OK ... assuming this is th eouter boot we are talkig abotu here.


take the metal camps off the boot and slide the joint apart. your going to want to slide the inboard joint apart first.

Mark the actual joint and the shaft so you can put it back together easily. remove the snap ring fron the shaft and slide the bearing off the shaft.

Now you can remove the boot from the shaft and install the new one. Prepare to get greasy now if you havent all ready.

replace the bearing and repack the boot with grease. make sure you gob a lot of it in there. make sure you put some grease on the bearing that you removed and keep them extremely clean.

im hoping you either got some new clamps with your new CV boot or you will have to go to a part store or possibly even ford and get a cv-boot clamp installer tool to replace the boot clamps.

it is pretty self explanatory once you get everythign taken apart and see how it works. If you get into it and need some help give me a call i alwaya have that phone with me.
 






Your directions were impecable :chug: :chug: :chug: :chug: after four hours I have finally gotten the entire inner & outer cv joint's replaced, now in about ten minutes I'am going to be taking the maden voyage and I swear if that noise is there and I did all this for nothing and I shoulda just patched that hole in the boot and replaced the bearing I'am going to drive me and my xploder off a cliff so if I don't report back it's cause i'm dead, along with the xploder ;)
 



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-=Earmuffs=- AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH_FU@K ME SH@T $75 down the pooper :confused: :confused: / nissian on that wheel bearing when we had it out I didn't notice any notches or groves, and it was all pretty tight, I guess is one of my last options just to pick up the bearing up and see if this solves my prob?
 






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