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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Take a look at Andrew B's write up Torsion bar lift
If you do a search you will find lots and lots of info on this subject. And yes, I know how to do the "Torsion Bar Twist"
Please bear with me. I have read the article on how to do the torsion lift and understand it. My problem is finding those darn bolts that I am supposed to turn. I am confused. There is no picture showing were those bolts are located. My 98 Sport does not have tension bots on either end of the torsion bar. But I do see a cantilever like device that is attached to the torsion bar. I am guessing that this is the bolt that I would tighten to do the torsion lift. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance.
That's it. At the rear of your torsion bars there is an adjuster. Each one has a small bolt that adjusts attitude of the adjuster on the narrow wedge end. tightening raises the truck, loosening lowers. I don't recommend tightening all the way.This will put too much stress on the adjusters and bolts as well as your bearings and cv joints. If you want to go higher without cranking the bolts too much, get stiffer bars from your Ford dealer and you can go higher with less adjustment. I've tried maxing them out and hitting the trail. The adjusters worked themselves out of the pockets and bent the bolts!Of course, that was with the stiffest bars and a little bit of Air-Explorer... Go three quarters max. If you are interested in part numbers and longer links, check out page 2 of my Explorer Page on the link below.
Rick
Eagle, from my experience, the ratio of adjustment is that one revolution of the adjusting bolt gives you about 1/4" of lift on the front end. This is a rough guess based on how much the vehicle rose when I adjusted mine.
You'll find the adjusting bolts located at the rear end of the torsion bars, almost under the front seat. The brackets drops down, there's a protective cover on the bottom of each assembly, and there is a 1" diameter hole through which the adjuster bolts can be accessed. It is the cantilever like device that you are looking at, I think.
I don't know if the increased strength comes from the thickness, or the increased length of the bar.(Getting a little personal here!)
The B bars that I bought have part number F572*5B326A and F572*5B327A. Yours might be different. I recommend going with the longer sway bar links if you are not planning on quick disconnects anytime soon. They are F77Z*5K483*AA. You will need the nuts and hardware for them too. They give you a little more travel/lift as they don't bind up the front so much. Again, yours might be different so measure them before you buy!
I really like the B bars. I have a Garvin brush guard and shovel/hi-lift jack on the front so with the extra weight the B bars really help. With the B bars cranked up only half way I've got clearance for the 32.8" Dunlops under all but the most abusive situations.