Pulling the tranny on a 92 is infinitely easier than it is on the 96's and up. Ford decided to pack the newer ones in there for some reason.
I pull mine all the time without a lift - no big deal at all. Get the vehicle up as high as you can on GOOD jackstands (there will be some wiggling around to free stuff up), then remove the driveshafts, the t-case (those wratcheting wrenches work great for getting the 5 bolts out of the t-case adaptor) - (don't try to pull it with the t-case intact!) - then once the t-case is out of the way, you can sit up in the hole where it was and using a long extension and a 13 MM socket (sometimes with a wobble or swivel on the end) you can litterally see the bell housing bolts.
Couple tips...
Drain the oil first, or it will come pouring out the tail shaft when you pull it - and it WILL fill up your shirt...
Rotate the engine with an 18mm socket from the front pulley from underneath the vehicle to get at the next torque converter bolt (acess through the starter hole).
TQ nuts are generally 14mm, but make sure you check and also make sure you use a 6 point socket. The flats on the nuts are rather short - you need all the grip you can get. You can use a screw driver to help hold the flexplate teeth so it doesn't spin. Also know that there is about one EXACT postition where the socket will fit, move the flexplate back and forth until you locate the sweet spot and everything works. I have found that using a flex-head ratchet helps to clear the front pumpkin (lines up right under the starter hole making it difficult to swing a ratchet).
Make sure that you disconnect all the lines, etc. On the 92, I used a crows-foot wrench on the end of a socket extension (5/8") size to remove the lines from the fender well - it worked well, but I have a body lift. On the 96 and up a regular 9/16" open end wrench will work, but don't round off the nuts. Go easy.
Driveshaft U-joint stap bolts take a #27 Torx bit - get a good one and then use a small propane torch to gently heat them first - Ford locktites the bolts in place. Heating them to about 300 degrees breaks the grip of the locktite and makes them come out without cussing or breaking the tool.
While you have the tranny out or the pan off, drill it for a B&M drain kit - you'll be thankful later on when you have to change oil.
Hope this helps... I can pull my A4LD tranny on the 92 in under an hour start to finish, with about twice that long to replace it, counting on spending some extra time to align everything. It takes me about 3 hours to pull the 5R55E in my 97. Sadly, I have a lot of experience now. I've pulled the 5R55E 5 times in the last 2 years and the A4LD 2 times in the last 6 months (for minor issues like a front seal).
No I do not have an engine puller yet. 
Thank you so much glfredrick, your experience and knowledge has and will help me very much. 
