Transfer case repair? 97 Mounty AWD | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Transfer case repair? 97 Mounty AWD

dukenilnil

Member
Joined
September 18, 2009
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
I had the clunk noise evaluated by a shop today after replacing the front drive shaft did not remove the noise. (history in link below)

The shop quoted me a price of $2600 to repair the transfer case with a new case and 3-year warranty. Is this a typical price? It is probably beyond my budget now so may have to scrap the car very sadly. Alternatively, I may drive it with the front drive shaft removed (eliminates the noise) until I find the funds.



http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=254705
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Go to a junkyard and get a low milage used t-case. It is not that difficult to remove the 4404. Its a fairly small case. When I swapped in my 4406, I had the 4404 out in about an hour.

You can probably get a good, low mileage used 4404 for under $300. Even if you had to go buy a floor jack, some ramps, and give a buddy some cash you would be alot farther ahead. Do it! And save youself some serious cash!
 






Just try to find a used one. Trust me, it's not that hard to replace. Good luck. :) And by the way...that sounds a little high for a new case and labor. A rebuilt will cost you a little over 700.00. If you do drive it without the front shaft on it will roll when in park so be careful.
 






Just try to find a used one. Trust me, it's not that hard to replace. Good luck. :) And by the way...that sounds a little high for a new case and labor. A rebuilt will cost you a little over 700.00. If you do drive it without the front shaft on it will roll when in park so be careful.

Thanks for the info and the warning. I have read over the info on removing the drive shaft and the parking drift/roll issues (I forgot to mention it in my post above). I always place the e-brake on (generally did it even before removing d-shaft) and, if on an incline, chock the wheels.
 






Another yoke for trying to source a lower mileage unit and swap it in. Very straight forward and do-able with no special tools.
 






Another yoke for trying to source a lower mileage unit and swap it in. Very straight forward and do-able with no special tools.

Can you refer me to directions on how to replace it yourself?
I am a novice at car repair (I considered a great accomplishment to remove and replace the front drive shaft in my efforts to diagnose the issue), but my father-in-law is pretty handy and will be visiting in the next month or so.

What tools would I need to him to bring? Are 2 ton jack stands sufficient to hold up the car?

I think I read somewhere that you need to remove the seats and carpet. I am a bit leary of doing that.

Thanks.
 






To remove the transfer case you will need to remove both drive shafts, and then the 6 bolts holding the transfer case to the transmission. I don't think the seats need to be removed. If that is the case they do come out rather easily as well.
 






To remove the transfer case you will need to remove both drive shafts, and then the 6 bolts holding the transfer case to the transmission. I don't think the seats need to be removed. If that is the case they do come out rather easily as well.

As above but remove the center console to access the upper transfer case bolts (access panel). Search on here for how to remove the console...very easy to do. I would just drive it up onto ramps as well instead of jack stands.
 






A buddy and I swapped in a rebuilt transfer case, as mentioned about $700 from Transfer Case Express. Very nice people to work with. I highly recommend removing the console to get at the upper bolts. We did it without using the access panel and his son learned some new words.
 












http://car-part.com/ try this site you can look up by state at your local junk yard for a price

Thanks for the reference. I found a used one on that site for under $500. They are checking the milage on it. It comes with a 101 day warranty.
Is it advisable to buy a used one? My Mountaineer has 160,000 on it. If I get it to 180,000 w/o any other big problems I'll be happy so I figure a used one might be good as any obvious damage would hopefully present itself in the first 101 days.

Thanks.
 






Thanks for the reference. I found a used one on that site for under $500. They are checking the milage on it. It comes with a 101 day warranty.
Is it advisable to buy a used one? My Mountaineer has 160,000 on it. If I get it to 180,000 w/o any other big problems I'll be happy so I figure a used one might be good as any obvious damage would hopefully present itself in the first 101 days.

Thanks.

It's a really good time to check the junkyard for parts for our trucks due to the cash for clunkers vehicles being sent to the scrap yards. Honestly, for 200.00 more dollars I would go with a rebuilt unit instead of a used one.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top