Truck won't start - sorta cranks, not anymore

[Tekime]

My 2000 Explorer isn't starting. I haven't tested it much and apologize for my lack of due diligence. Christmas travels in a few days, cold weather, and I just spent all my funds on bills. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

A few weeks ago it began starting hard - turning over a few more times than usual before firing up. It's also getting much colder out the last few weeks.

A few days ago I turned the key and heard a solenoid click and that was it. I tried a dozen times, still nothing. Called AAA and when they arrived they guy hopped in and it started right up no problem. The same thing happened again yesterday, then after parking it and trying again later it kept turning over but not firing, then after a few more tries all I got was a click.

Battery power seems OK - as in I have bright lights, everything works on interior.

Engine light has been on for a while; it came on after I changed the brakes & rotors months ago but I haven't had a chance to pull the codes. It was running fine this entire time.

Anything I can definitely rule out? Anything easy I can check on? Could it be the battery even though I seem to have power?

Thanks for any ideas!!!!!

 

[igiveup]

Hello

How old is the battery and what is the voltage(12.6 volts or higher)? Check your connections to your battery pos and neg post. Start with that.

igiveup

 

[rileyrs]

clean your battery cable and terminals, thats an easy start. get your battery tested also, its free.

 

[robertoa1a]

I will bet you need a starter ($100-$200 if you do it). The bearings and brushes in it wear out in them. You can rebuild it if you are good at fixing things ($35).

Some people say to tap on it with a hammer. This can brake the magnets loose inside and ruin it but if you are stranded, what the hey. The damn thing is malfunctioning any way. However, If you tap on it to start it as a daily routine, it is a matter of time before you end up stranded. It usually happens at the worst time and in the worst place. Like at a parking meter when your broke. Then you really pay.

 

[Tekime]

Hey, thanks for the replies guys!

My multimeter bit the dust a while ago, but I did try jumping it today. Made absolutely no difference. Let it charge for a good five. Still has plenty of power for headlights, interiors, fan, radio, etc. Not a hiccup when I turn the key..

From how the problem has behaved I've been thinking starter or alternator, maybe an electrical problem somewhere, but don't know how to test for sure.

I'm gonna smack the starter around a little and see what happens! I'll pretty much fix anything given the time but is it a tough rebuild?

 

[robertoa1a]

It's a DC electric motor. I believe there are two long bolts running through it, a gear reduction on the front, and a end cap on the rear that houses the rear bearing.

The shaft is called an armature and has the wire windings leading to the commutator at the rear of the armature.

Sometimes the parts store has a rebuild kit that includes a rear plate that houses the brushes, new bearings and a drive gear. You will also need electric cleaner as the inside will have a bunch of nasty brush dust inside. The brush dust gets in the cracks of the commutator and weakens the starter, so clean between the copper contact areas with a box knife. Use the whole can of spray cleaning it. The rest should be straight forward. slide the bearings on and re assemble. Remove the rust and spray paint the starter.

Danger! Unplug the battery before you remove the starter or you will be arc welding.

 

[robertoa1a]

Oh yeah. Based on your disription I seriously doubt you have an alternator problem. If you ever do it rebuilds the same way, except the brush plate has diodes in it.

 

[Tekime]

I just pounded on it several times and no change at all. Do I need someone to whack it while I'm turning the key? Maybe it's just seized up but I'd like to know for sure before I try to replace anything...

Thanks for all the info. I'll have to call around for a repair kit & give it a shot if I have the time. Looks like $170 for a new starter at Autozone.

 

[robertoa1a]

You can shop for parts on line and get a visual. Check Advance A/P. By the way, on your dead volt meter, there may be a fuse inside. That thing will be handy. Do you have a 12v test light?

It doesn't usually cease up. When the bearing wears the armature wants sticks to one side magnetically. The brush dust conducts electricity and can short out the commutator.

There is a second solenoid mounted on the starter. Is that where the clicking is coming from?

As far as the tapping on the starter while cranking, yes. Its been ten years for me but I had a long piece of metal. On a v6 you can do that yourself. On a v8 the starter is on the passenger side.

 

[marragtop]

Have you tried running a jumper straight from the battery to the starter to see if it will spin?

 

[Tekime]

Well I had someone turn the key while I tapped it - no luck. Couldn't hear anything from the starter either.

Picked up a cheap analog multimeter and looks like around 12.5V at the battery.

marragtop can you explain a bit more? You mean jumper cables?

 

[robertoa1a]

There is a posative wire running from the batery to the starter. Is the same 12.5 volts felt there? Marragetop was provably talking about running a thick wire from the batery to the starter leads to see if it spins.