UCA/bushings, LCA/bushings question...thinking about ordering from RockAuto

[ws65]

I just ran across one of the vendors on this site, RockAuto. I saw they have several different types of UCA's w/ bushings...the Raybestos are the cheapest, then Dorman (which says OE) and on up. I'm on a tight budget and was wondering how the Raybestos arms hold up. Heres a link to the RockAuto page...

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1362440&parttype=10401

I don't need anything heavy duty since I don't take it off road; its just a day to day driver for commuting.
Any suggestions for best part for the money would be appreciated.

I'm gonna do the LBJ's as well...I saw in the sticky that some after market ball joints won't fit? If I do this I can't risk them not fitting. Which LBJ's would you go with or would you just replace the whole LCA?

One more question that has nothing to do with this...how do I know if my Ex is a vin "E" or "X"? (I have a 2000 XLT 4L SOHC)

 

[ranger7ltr]

Suspension parts for my Explorer....

I decided to get a kit from AC Cars out of Florida... The kit comes 2 lower ball joints, 1 right side upper arm and ball joint, 1 left side arm with bushings and ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, and 2 sway bar links...All for $139.99 including shipping. The fit of these parts was great and I had no issues installing them...

I knew when I bought this truck it had been neglected maintenance-wise so if there was a major problem I wasn't going to waste a bunch of cash either..It needed the upper and lower ball joints and the outer tie rod end boots were torn so the wear items all needed changing and buying each one would have cost more than the truck did..Plus the parts are greaseable and warranted for 15 months...My truck is not off-roaded either but it needs the heaviest duty parts you can use...My truck is used strictly highway and towing use and it is not the lightest of vehicles.. That weight puts lots of stress on the suspension parts and wears them...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=300288593569

The second question should be simple...Vin code denotes the engine in your truck...Vin "X" is a 4.0 liter OHV... Vin "E" is a 4.0 liter SOHC...And it is also the 8th digit in your VIN number of your vehicle.

BTW I also bought a kit for replacing all 4 rotors and sets of brake pads for the cost of 1 pair of rotors... And the kit comes with drilled and slotted rotors and semi-metallic pads...

 

[corkey]

okay , question for you time,, which of the parts do you really need,, ??
cause it seems to me like you are switching out the entire front end ,
if you just need one part , look for those parts only,, just cause you change one LBJ doesn't mean they both have to be changed, , same with the uppers,, ,

 

[gavin]

MOOG parts! My opinion.

but as corkey said... you don't really need to replace the LBJ's unless they are bad.
They are not really a job you want to do "just because"

for the passenger's side (right-side) upper control arm assembly... I've heard of issues with getting proper alignments with the 1-piece arm (that looks exactly like the driver's side), versus the 2-piece OEM-style part.

 

[ws65]

I'm not rebuilding the front end completely, well, almost...I have the shocks done and one inner tie rod (because they said it wouldn't hold the alignment w/out a new one)...still getting a noise from the right side when there is a lot of deflection...if I go slow over a bump I can't really hear it. I know the tire store said one of my lower ball joints were going bad, but they didn't write down which one. So I'm thinking sway bar to frame bushings and end links and bushings I'm going to do for sure, maybe the upper and lower ball joints as well. I just know the sway bar bushings and end links are inexpensive, but the stuff for ball joints is a little pricey, that's why I asked about the RockAuto stuff and Raybestos because I'm on a tight budget. Oh ya, I will go with what is OE for the uppers for sure.

 

[gavin]

easy way to check LBJ's.

jack one side up by LCA, getting the tire just a couple inches off the ground.
take a pry bar, underneath the tire.
pull up.

there should be NO play. The only movement you should get would be from the suspension.

 

[ws65]

I'm thinking about getting the Dorman lca since the ball joint is already pressed in and there would be no issues of fitting an aftermarket ball joint into the stock ca...what do you think?

So how are the mevotechs for the upper's, I mean they are $30 cheaper, from the photo they similar to the moog's...I just know these brands very well...suggestions please.

 

[gavin]

most of the replacement LCA's come with the balljoint and bushings already pressed in.
I know my Motorcraft, and whatever brand Napa sells both did.

I've never heard of mevotech, but the upper balljoints don't take near as much abuse as the lowers, so those should be fine.