Upper control arm question (pass side)

[Steeda90GT]

So I noticed my upper balljoint has a rip in the boot. I also noticed that the upper control arm (pass side) is two pieces. Can I just replace the one piece that has the ball joint attached to it? It looks like I would have to mark the bolts to make sure the alignment stays the same, but it should work right?

 

[carlover]

So I noticed my upper balljoint has a rip in the boot. I also noticed that the upper control arm (pass side) is two pieces. Can I just replace the one piece that has the ball joint attached to it? It looks like I would have to mark the bolts to make sure the alignment stays the same, but it should work right?

Go to rockauto.com, look at the Moog upper control arms. They make the one peice design. In order to align it though you will need to buy a set of after market alignment cam/bolt sets.

 

[Steeda90GT]

Thanks for the advice, but I was wondering if I could just purchase the outer piece (with ball joint attached) and install that.

Anyone else?

 

[Kevlar7R]

You can get that piece from Checker or Autozone. I just did the same job, and replacing just the outer piece is a breeze. As long as you don't move the bolt that faces to the front, your alignment shouldn't change significantly.

 

[Steeda90GT]

Thanks man, do you know what it was called and how much it cost?

 

[Steeda90GT]

UPDATE: Just came back from Autozone, picked up the balljoint with just the bracket for $35. So I guess I should mark the bolts with white-out before removing?

 

[Kevlar7R]

No need, really. The two large nuts facing the tire are just lock nuts to hold it in place. Remove the bolt that secures the upper balljoint to the steering knuckle, and lower the lower control arm down out of the way. Remove the 2 large nuts, the whole thing will just pull towards you. Slide the new one back on, tighten the nuts, and put the knuckle back together.

 

[Steeda90GT]

Ahh ok, so I wont even need to touch the bolt that's facing the front of the vehicle? No need to mark anything then, just undo those 3 bolts and rebolt?

 

[Kevlar7R]

Pretty much! Unless you run into some unforseen obstacle, that is it.

Don't forget about the force of the spring on the lower control arm. Make sure you have the LCA supported before you begin trying to remove the first bolt.

 

[Steeda90GT]

Ahh ok.

Would you mind giving me step by step details? I want to make sure I get this right the first time.

EDIT: My truck is 4WD, no coil spring, so do I still need to support the lower a-arm?

 

[Kevlar7R]

You have a torsion spring. It is a long bar that goes through both of the lower control arm bushings.

Jack the truck up, and put a jackstand under the frame. There is a convenient spot on the body mount just behind the wheel well. Take the tire off. Put a jack under the LCA, and put a little pressure up on it. Take out the bolt that goes crossways through the spindle, just below the upper balljoint. This will release the Upper control arm. Lift up on it to release it from the knuckle. You may have to tap it up with a hammer.

Now remove the two large nuts facing you on the UCA. Push up on the UCA, and pull the ball joint peice towards you. Assembly is reverse of dissasembly.

A lot of these bolts are very tight, so air impact will make your life a LOT easier for taking apart.

 

[Steeda90GT]

Thanks for the instructions, I understand it better now. I'm too used to Mustangland sometimes when it comes to suspensions.

 

[Steeda90GT]

OK - I just replaced the upper balljoint w/bracket. It would've been a breeze if my balljoint wasnt RUSTED to the steering knuckle. I spent about 1.5 hrs beating on that thing to finally get it out.

Anyways it drove great for a few minutes, turned the wheel...no squeak or anything. Then about a couple minutes the squeaking came back Just as loud as before!! I don't get it, the upper balljoint was ripped and everytime I greased it, it would be ok for a few min then start squeaking...I was sure that was the problem.

Any ideas?

 

[gijoecam]

Go to rockauto.com, look at the Moog upper control arms. They make the one peice design. In order to align it though you will need to buy a set of after market alignment cam/bolt sets.

Moog also sells the outer half too... They also sell an outer half with a replaceable joint, just like the 1-piece arms too. (I have it on mine)

-Joe

 

[mora0004]

OK - I just replaced the upper balljoint w/bracket. It would've been a breeze if my balljoint wasnt RUSTED to the steering knuckle. I spent about 1.5 hrs beating on that thing to finally get it out.

Anyways it drove great for a few minutes, turned the wheel...no squeak or anything. Then about a couple minutes the squeaking came back Just as loud as before!! I don't get it, the upper balljoint was ripped and everytime I greased it, it would be ok for a few min then start squeaking...I was sure that was the problem.

Any ideas?

wheel bearing or tie rod could be the cause. Greasing the ball joint only allows the ball joint to absorb vibration better.

 

[Steeda90GT]

It ended up being the lower ball joints. I bought a needle attachment for my gun and greased them. Now my suspension is whisper quiet again.

 

[rwenzing]

Moog also sells the outer half too... They also sell an outer half with a replaceable joint, just like the 1-piece arms too. (I have it on mine)

-Joe

Like Ford, MOOG has recently discontinued the 2-piece passenger side UCA for the Gen 2 Explorers. There may still be some in the parts pipeline but they will eventually be unavailable.

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MOOG part numbers for Gen 2 Explorers and torsion bar Rangers:


DS one-piece UCA
(MOOG K8708T):
UCA w/replaceable/greasable ball joint

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PS one-piece UCA
(MOOG K80068)
UCA w/replaceable/greasable ball joint
Similar appearance to K8708T above but with slightly different ball joint offset.

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PS 2-piece style ball joint carrier
(MOOG K8710T) :
Carrier w/replaceable/greasable ball joint
Note: this part is discontinued and may not be available. The entire 2-piece PS UCA assembly can be replaced by the 1-piece K80068.

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Lower ball joint only
Greasable, fits DS and PS factory LCAs
(MOOG K8695T)

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Outer tie rod ends
Greasable, fits DS and PS
(MOOG ES3461)