Various minor issues (99 Explorer Limited)

[morgfarm1]

Hey All,

I'm new here when it comes to being a registered member, so forgive me if this is the wrong section (though I'm 99% sure I'm in the right place)

I just picked up a 99 Explorer Limited, and it's in great shape with all the bells and whistles, (and a cool paint job that changes from blue in direct light to purple in low light) but there are a few minor kinks with it. (Very Minor)

First being my Cruise Control. It does not work. At all. Period. Fixed
I have confirmed it is in need of the Recall that installs a fuse for the Cruise Kill (The one that causes shorts when brake fluid leaks)
After I get the recall handled, What is suggested to resolve this?

Second, The power door 'lock' switch on the driver's side works ONLY when the door is open. Once you close the door, It quits working. (Yet the Unlock option still works) I've exchanged the switch itself, but no luck. I suspect maybe a kinked wire at the hinge (Where the black cylindrical case is in the door jam) but Not sure, Anyone else have this?

Radio Display not working (MACH Premium Sound) This one I think I've found the answer to, but still need to have it serviced. I'll update when I have a chance to get that handled.

Back hatch lock actuator - Sounds like the gears are stripped. As soon as I look through my Haynes manual to figure out 1) how to get the back trim out and 2) how to get the actuator out, I'll get cracking on that also.

Sun visors loose - I used it the first sunny day I had (in the position to protect my left face) and got smacked in the head by the visor on a left turn. Any suggestions how to cure that? (I already tightened the screws that secure it to the ceiling)

Thanks for any help anyone's got.

The specs, If anyone needs them are as follows:

Yr: '99
Model: Explorer
Trim: Limited
Eng: 4.0L SOHC
Power locks, Power windows, Power sun, AutoLamp. Reverse sensor system & DRLs are not on this model.

 

[koda2000]

cruise control:
the previous owner may have removed the cruise control fuse, rather than getting the recall done. check your owner's manual to figure out which fuse controls the curise control and check it. it may be in the cab or under the hood.

door lock:
you may have a broken wire (or nearly broken wire) in the rubber boot or black plastic canister in the driver's door jam. pull back the boot and take the canister apart and examine. common problem area.

visor:
i haven't looked at one lately, but the way visors typically work is that there's a spring used to create tension between the arm and the mounting bracket. if you're lucky there's a nut you can simply tighten up to increase the spring's tension, but more than likely there's just a washer with a rivited end that you'll need to get more creative about in order to increase tension on the spring.

radio display:
very common problem. $45 to have Trevor fix it for you (PM me for how to contract Trevor) or get an after-market radio.

rear hatch:
i don't know that there are any gears involved with the actuator. i think it's just a soleniod, but to get the panel off. remove the 2 screws that hold the inside handle on, also remove the screw under the plastic cover up at the window latch. there are snap-in clips along the top and top sides of the panel that first have to be popped out (i think 4 along the top and 2 on each side). then the panel has hooks molded into it (4-6 as i recall) that you lift the panel up to disengage. then you can get into the rear hatch to see whats going on.

tip: to put the plastic panel back on can be a PITA. i've found that it's easier to sit in the cargo area with the hatch down (not latched) to get the lower hooks engaged first, then worry about pushing the upper clips back in. putting a little white grease on the clips makes them go in easier, and come out easier next time.

 

[morgfarm1]

Cruise is fixed.
I looked around the master cylinder and found a black stub with a red ring at the bottom of it. I unwrapped the black from around it and it revealed a plug connector. I looked around for what I anticipated would be a needle in a haystack (only one unplugged connector) but found the loose end. plugged it in, test ran it and Bingo.

As for the visor, It's the bleeping spring. Gona need to find a spring spacer (micro spring rubber, so to speak) as a starter. Not sure what else from there at the moment.

On a day I'm not parked on the side of the road in down-town and at my parent's house, I'll take the door and back hatch apart and see what I can turn up with for the locks.

Thanks Koda

 

[koda2000]

no problem.

 

[morgfarm1]

An update:
It is confirmed the door lock while closed (Driver's Side) is a pinched wire. I will need to take time to cure that and that should resolve that matter

New issues:
rattling in motor (noticable at idle) - It's said this 4L SOHC is bad about Timing chain tensioner failures. Be that a likely cause? I just put 10-30 Synthetic oil into it in hopes that will calm it down. Immdiately after the oil change, Starting the motor Massively amplified the rattle, as if it was dry in the top end. This was prevalent in my last Explorer, so I thought ahead to have the coil undone so I could turn the motor over for about 15 seconds to build up pressure before actually trying to start it.

Rev Limiter:
I see threads here asking why the [Park/Neutral] Rev Limiter WORKS. I'm asking why it DOESN'T work and if I should be concerned of critical failures down the road pertaining to ECU/PCM failure
Edit: It worked when I got it. I tested to make damn sure it was all there. I fired it up after a cold-start stall (May be timing related, EG, The bad Tensioners) and the tach went all the way to 5 (woops). I don't Need the Rev Limiter, but I want to know if I should worry. My mechanic has no clue.

 

[Marvial]

Hey All,

First being my Cruise Control. It does not work. At all. Period. Fixed
I have confirmed it is in need of the Recall that installs a fuse for the Cruise Kill (The one that causes shorts when brake fluid leaks)
After I get the recall handled, What is suggested to resolve this?

Hello Morgfarm1, can you give me a pointer to the Recall info? I have a 2000 LTD, my cruise also does not work, but when fixing it I would like to include Eng. Changes.

rgds

 

[morgfarm1]

Hello Morgfarm1, can you give me a pointer to the Recall info? I have a 2000 LTD, my cruise also does not work, but when fixing it I would like to include Eng. Changes.

rgds

Not sure about the 00s, but the 99 and 01 I had both went in for the same recall which simply installs a fuse breaker between the Cruise switch and the master cylinder. This is because the master cylinder is, apparently, known to leak which can cause a short in the Cruise Control system. You can check the status of the recall at your Ford Dealer. Give them the VIN and they can make sure the recall has been done or not.

My fix was a connector being unplugged. Here's an image of where it is (from the nose)

 

[koda2000]

2000 get the same recall

 

[Marvial]

Hello Morgfarm1 and Koda2000,

I have just inspected this area in my Ex, and there is no evidence of any modification here. The main cylinder has two connectors, one sideways which seems to be level check, and one near the end with a vertical sensor for brake pressure, i.e. brakes aktivated.

Both of these branches come of the main engine harness, that plugs into the engine with a big 2" sqare plug/socket, and the whole harness is encapsulated in what looks like factory plastic ducting.

So, I will contact the local Ford (Volvo) dealer with the VIN.

What happens if I get the "short", harness fire or just some blown fuses and erratic errors?

Halle(y) & owner

:exp:

 

[koda2000]

Hello Morgfarm1 and Koda2000,

I have just inspected this area in my Ex, and there is no evidence of any modification here. The main cylinder has two connectors, one sideways which seems to be level check, and one near the end with a vertical sensor for brake pressure, i.e. brakes aktivated.

Both of these branches come of the main engine harness, that plugs into the engine with a big 2" sqare plug/socket, and the whole harness is encapsulated in what looks like factory plastic ducting.

So, I will contact the local Ford (Volvo) dealer with the VIN.

What happens if I get the "short", harness fire or just some blown fuses and erratic errors?

Halle(y) & owner

:exp:

The concern is a fire. I believe in order for this to happen the switch must also be leaking brake fluid, which has happened enough times that Ford had to issue the recall and modification.

 

[morgfarm1]

So far as I know, Koda is right. it is a Fire hazard and thus the reason for the fuse. (Short happens, Fuse blows, therefore protecting your system)

 

[Marvial]

Hmm, wonder if this is a "global" or "national" issue?

Well, this might create a problem, but I will try the official road first. I have looked into the vehicle history, and the 2'nd previous owner brought the truck with him as he moved from Germany. Thus, the truck was originally sold in Germany, and was imported in 2005.
So, depending on when the fix was issued, it could have been lost on this car.

Do you know a "modification number" or description of this, so I know what to ask Ford Sweden for? Or, would this info be available from Ford directly?

As an alternative, if the fix is just an inline fuse, the Amps and the wire color code would suffice, and I could do it myself.

Halle(y) & owner

:exp:

 

[koda2000]

As far as I recall (no pun intented) hearing on the news years ago, the circut could overheat and, if you had wet brake fluid near the switch, it could start a fire. This was something that could happen even if the vehicle was turned off. It had something to do with the brake switch and cruise control. I don't know how the jumper wire (with what appears to be two in-line fuses) solves the problem, but that's the fix Ford did for it. The TSB also included Ford replacing the brake switch if it was leaking.

 

[morgfarm1]

I got one for ya, Koda. This one's superficial, but annoying.
In Oregon, it rains. Alot. My back wiper has a horrible time getting any part of my back window (There's one Tiinny patch it can reach)

I found my window hinges were loose, so I tightened them, but that made Zero difference. To watch the wiper go along, It comes up off the window, as if the spring in the wiper arm has no pull in it anymore. Any thoughts?

 

[koda2000]

I got one for ya, Koda. This one's superficial, but annoying.
In Oregon, it rains. Alot. My back wiper has a horrible time getting any part of my back window (There's one Tiinny patch it can reach)

I found my window hinges were loose, so I tightened them, but that made Zero difference. To watch the wiper go along, It comes up off the window, as if the spring in the wiper arm has no pull in it anymore. Any thoughts?

Oh boy, well you asked for it: Your problem with the rear wiper not touching the window, during its entire swipe, is super common. All 4 of my trucks have this problem. It's due to a bad design. I have investigated this problem at length. The problem is that the wiper motor is mounted on 3 rubber grommets. With age, the grommets get soft and the tension from the wiper arm (against the window/liftgate) twists the motor on its mounts. It doesn't help that the metal of the wiper motor mount and the liftgate is kinda flimsy. If you look at where the wiper motor's nose protrudes through the liftgate, you will see how its being pushed to the left inside the rubber seal on the liftgate. If you grab the motor's nose and push it to the right and left you'll notice how easily it moves.

There many posts on this subject and several suggested "fixes". I've checked with my Ford dealer, and they don't list the grommets separately. I've tried HELP universal replacement grommets, but they aren't quite the correct size. In the past, I've made the comment that if Energy Suspension made these grommets the problem would solved... I've tried bending the wiper arm to increase tension on the glass. I've also tried grinding down the stops on the arm. Neither fix has bee 100% effective. On my latest project, I added a 1/4" spacer to the right-side motor mount, between the mount and the liftgate (note you may also need to also get a longer bolt). This fix seems to be working pretty well, as it keeps the motor's nose in the middle of the liftgate seal and the blade's tension against the glass equal.

 

[morgfarm1]

Oh boy, well you asked for it: Your problem with the rear wiper not touching the window, during its entire swipe, is super common. All 4 of my trucks have this problem. It's due to a bad design. I have investigated this problem at length. The problem is that the wiper motor is mounted on 3 rubber grommets. With age, the grommets get soft and the tension from the wiper arm (against the window/liftgate) twists the motor on its mounts. It doesn't help that the metal of the wiper motor mount and the liftgate is kinda flimsy. If you look at where the wiper motor's nose protrudes through the liftgate, you will see how its being pushed to the left inside the rubber seal on the liftgate. If you grab the motor's nose and push it to the right and left you'll notice how easily it moves.

There many posts on this subject and several suggested "fixes". I've checked with my Ford dealer, and they don't list the grommets separately. I've tried HELP universal replacement grommets, but they aren't quite the correct size. In the past, I've made the comment that if Energy Suspension made these grommets the problem would solved... I've tried bending the wiper arm to increase tension on the glass. I've also tried grinding down the stops on the arm. Neither fix has bee 100% effective. On my latest project, I added a 1/4" spacer to the right-side motor mount, between the mount and the liftgate (note you may also need to also get a longer bolt). This fix seems to be working pretty well, as it keeps the motor's nose in the middle of the liftgate seal and the blade's tension against the glass equal.

Well, At least we know what it is. I'll look into that latter fix. I of course have to detach teh deck's panel i'm sure.

I also tore into the wiring in the left door and did indeed find a broken wire. I hooked the wire up, No go. Took my left door apart, and looked at the switch assembly. The wire I found was for my Auto Down (now I know why THAT didn't work now too, although I didn't really care for Auto Down.) The color of the wire is so generic it's impossible to find within the mess of wires that's in there. Plus, There were several arcing burns on the outsides of many of the wires I found near the Auto Down wire. I might have to have someone actually re-wire the left door and master control. No way I can handle that task on my own. (I am terrible at wiring).

Auto Down still doesn't work. I can hear it disable (with the click sound) even as I hold the button, so there's still a short in there somewhere that may have to do with the inability to lock the doors while they're shut.

 

[koda2000]

Wiper Motor:
Yes, you'll need to remove the lift-gate interior trim. To do that, remove the two screws and grab handle, pop out the plastic plugs under the rear glass, one of my trucks also had a small screw under one of the plugs (?) if so remove it too. Then there is a clip on each side of the window opening and 4 clips along the top. these clips are best removed with a trim panel tool. Slide the tool along between the trim and the metal lift-gate to find where they are. Once the clips are out, the panel is held to the lift-gate by hooks and gravity. just lift it up and it comes right off. Putting all the hooks back in place can be a little tricky, if you're doing it alone, because the panel is flimsy.

Door Locks:
If you see signs of arcing, something's going on in the door jam/switch area. Another common place where wires get corroded is under the carpet and door sill on the driver's side rear door. To check this area, pop up the door sill and lift the carpeting. There's a bundle of wires here and a splice there that gets corroded and sometimes pulls apart.

 

[morgfarm1]

Wiper Motor:
Yes, you'll need to remove the lift-gate interior trim. To do that, remove the two screws and grab handle, pop out the plastic plugs under the rear glass, one of my trucks also had a small screw under one of the plugs (?) if so remove it too. Then there is a clip on each side of the window opening and 4 clips along the top. these clips are best removed with a trim panel tool. Slide the tool along between the trim and the metal lift-gate to find where they are. Once the clips are out, the panel is held to the lift-gate by hooks and gravity. just lift it up and it comes right off. Putting all the hooks back in place can be a little tricky, if you're doing it alone, because the panel is flimsy.

Door Locks:
If you see signs of arcing, something's going on in the door jam/switch area. Another common place where wires get corroded is under the carpet and door sill on the driver's side rear door. To check this area, pop up the door sill and lift the carpeting. There's a bundle of wires here and a splice there that gets corroded and sometimes pulls apart.

Fixed the wiper. I redneck'd it. Tore it apart, and at first pulled the wiper motor to see everything I could see. -- It's not much to look at. I put it back in and could see as I put it back together the gromets you described -- Very soft. I pulled the motor up to see how much help it would be and I'll be dipped if it diddn't help. What I did was, Dropped the hatch (Left the window open, mind you) and leaned up against my seats and basically bent the very flimsy back door inner structure a bit-- as far as it could safely go and still allow the locks to work. Then, I unbolted the lowest bolt, took a pair of pliers and I bent the bracket outwards, which would increase the applied angle of the motor. about 3 tries and Its hitting 98% of it's target area AND it doesn't get stuck in that damn gap that Ford left between the window and the main hatch. No parts needed, Just a bit of force.

My interior trim was a bit different from what is described in the repair manuals and what you Described, Koda. Pop the top part of the trim out (it's retained by metal clips)then unscrew the bolt next to teh latch, and the two screws holding the pull strap. Lift up, and it pops right out. There are no plugs in that thing whatsoever. (Must be unique to the Limited trim level)

For anyone that tries it, it's really easy. an hour is what I spent experimenting. it'll probably only be half an hour with someone who has already opened up the back trim area (mine was virgin to a mechanic -- Everything was as it was installed at the factory, so it was a bit more of a pain)

Thanks for the help on that, koda! that wasn't so bad. I also unplugged the back lock actuator for the hatch until I can find the right size wrench to remove the actuator's mounting bracket. It is definately the source of the noise and not locking. that looks like an easy task, aside from getting the actuators in and out of the door itself.

 

[morgfarm1]

Another update (Damn Exploder)

Blend doors went out yesterday, explains why my AC was poor all summer I suppose. I'll have to look into that

I also had torque connected to the OBDII Socket like I usually do, and it picked up a pending fault, P0320. Didn't confirm and the Check light did NOT come on, but I want to catch it before it becomes a problem. I will note that at a stop, if i gun the gas to full, the stumbles pretty bad before catching up to itself. Some early research indicates that may be a symptom of an ignition issue (Which would be pretty obvious if it stumbles).

According to a forum thread F150online, It's likely to be the CKP. So i'll check it and hope I don't have to replace it. Lost my job in June so Money to spend on a Ford isn't really.. well, there.

Oh and if someone has any feedback or easy way to fix the blend door issue permanent like, I'd appreciate it. Of course I'll be scanning the forums here for an answer, and I KNOW I've seen a post about it before.

 

[RomeovilleIL]

Oh the lovely blend door. There's 3 ways to approach:

1. cut a hole in the side and move it manually, then tape over hole -- very poor choice, doesnt actually fix the problem.

2. follow the correct service procedure and remove the dash to expose the access door on top of the plenum to replace the door (takes about 6 to 8 hours first time around, you definitely DO NOT have to evac the a/c as it can move back plenty enough to get to all the firewall side studs) -- mandatory to replace the heater core, but really labor intensive for a blend door.

3. cut a flap in the bottom of the airbox to drop out the door, put in new $10 doorman replacement available at your local OReillys/Murrays, seal shut with some RTV or metal duct tape (takes about 30 minutes first try) -- Good permanent repair, I highly recommend.

A little searching will yield write-ups on how to do all three choices & how to check the blend door and actuator.