Warped Flexplate - shift engine forward or push back transmission | Ford Explorer Forums

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Warped Flexplate - shift engine forward or push back transmission

08EddieCA

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 31, 2016
Messages
417
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83
Location
CA
City, State
Los Angeles, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
08 & 03 X (Eddie B & XLS)
I installed a new motor and installed a new flex plate. Flex plate is warped. Had a few shops look at the truck and all came to the same conclusion.

Except for the massive massive vibration that runs through the entire truck, at 2,700 rpms and higher, the starter is a the key to helping us diagnose this problem. When starting the starter makes a changing sounds as if the distance between the starter ring moves closer and away from the starter shaft.

I tried new mounts, new front driveshaft, ran the truck without the accessory belt (in case it was the fan or fan clutch) and installed a new transmission mount. Removed front drive shaft. Engine checked out fine by the dealer. Trans checked out by the tranny shop and they found no issues with the trans (they even serviced the trans). Tires have been rotated and balanced - plus they are six months old. New plugs, again. Plugs look fine. Exhaust is solid but rusted with good hangers/damners. Hopefully the front pump of the trans has not been affected.

My question is: do I slide the motor forward to gain access to the flex plate bolts or do I slide the transmission back? I would much rather slide the motor forward to gain access to flex plate. This is what I'm more comfortable doing.

Any tips on the installation of the new flex plate if I move the motor forward? I have the tightening sequence from the shop manual.
 



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OMG Eddie -
I hope this is the last thing for a while.........
At first I was going to say pull the transmission out, much less wiring and hassle.
But then, you are going thru something similar what I went thru 2 years ago (my old story): I was told I need a new engine because of the noise coming out of it, installed a new/used engine and the noise still there. Final good diagnosis was torque converter was bad.

I had same dilemma at that point: engine out or tranny out ?
Went with engine since I just had it out 2 week earlier so remembered all the steps and the bolts were fresh. Second time was a charm, about 5 hrs with a friend versus 10-12 hours the first time. Much less laying on the back when pulling the engine.
If you were to ask a shop, they would say tranny: IIRC it's 20 man hours for an engine vs 7 man hrs for the tranny by the book.
Good luck.
 






2wd or 4x4? Working on lift or ground?
 






..."Removed front drive shaft" and I see AWD in Eddies's signature.

I think it would be done on the ground - no lift

Eddie - sorry for answering your questions :)
 






Please, by all means for the cause: he is correct. All wheel drive, v6, 5R55s. No lift.

I'll be on the ground so I will have a clearance issue to remove the trans. I have my hoist and all installation tools still out in the garage. I feel more comfortable dealing with the engine. Still vivid in my mind...

I have some concerns about my front pump on my trans. Like you stated above, I'm also tempted to swap the TC as well. If I damaged the front pump I won't know for sure until I get it back on the road after the flexplate repair.

I was planning on removing the intake manifold, Disconnecting the wire harness, pulling all accessories off the front, disconnect exhaust, drain coolant, pull the air box, fan shroud and fan, and pull front bumper for hoist clearance. And sliding the motor forward without destroying my new radiator.

I should have enough room to unbolt the motor/trans and slide out the flexplate without completely pulling the motor out. I measured the depth of the old TC and made sure my installed TC was at the same depth before I installed the new motor. At idle and up to 2k rpm the pump and tc don't make any more noise than I'm used to hearing. So I might not have issues with the tc or pump. Frustrated. But I will prevail.

Wife wants to bury it in the desert, lol. I felt the same frustration for a few days.
 






Gosh this is a hard one. If it was me in your situation I'd pull the motor. Then reinstall without the mounts bolted to the block to line everything up easier. Once trans is bolted up you can lift up and squeeze the block to motor mount plates in.

Also I'd definitely swap out the converter. The 07-10 ones are known to go bad as is. Make sure you get the right one also.
 






The ground clearance is definitely an issue.
I had mine on 16" tall home made blocks and I had to add few 4x4 blocks to raise it get the tranny out. And I had to drop it off the transmission jack.

(My son's happy moment when it came out)

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IMG_7001_zpshy6gv7xu.jpg


IMG_6996_zpsjl3iyd1s.jpg


IMG_6994_zpsawe0fu75.jpg


IMG_6994_zpsawe0fu75.jpg
 






I'd recommend moving the transmission back. get a transmission jack that has wheels.
 






That's very interesting idea.

You can't move it back much, the bell housing is pretty close to the firewall.

But maybe drop it down and then move it back.
 






Would I have to detach the transfer case or could it come out as one unit minus the drive shafts?
 






See my first picture, I dropped it as 1 unit.
 






I just recalled that when I was putting it back, I bolted both together and was trying to install it as 1 piece, but it was too hard. Put the tranny back in, and then transfer case.
 






Thank you. I'm leaning towards dropping the transmission. It looks quicker. My hesitation is due to a lack of experience disconnecting a transmission. I know I have to move the entire exhaust, especially since mine is welded in certain spots due to previous cracks/breaks, I'm dreading this the most. And, I'm unfamiliar with the connectors that I cannot see located above the transmission - shifter cable, any harnesses, 02 sensors, etc. The driveshafts will be marked in place so I put them back as they were originally installed. Over the next week, I'm going to get my hands on a trans lift as I will be doing this myself. I may replace the front pump while I have it out too (which is why I'm leaning towards dropping the trans - it sounds like it's not centered. I think I can work on the pump and replace the flexplate while the trans is in the best position I can get it into. I want to inspect the rear main seal too.

Is there a gasket between the trans and the transfer case that I should get a replacement for?

I'll take some photos as I get this done. This will be interesting, Lol!!!
 






Yes, there is a gasket but I never used it.

When I had to pull my transfer case on the my v8 because it was making noise, there was no gasket from the factory, so I do not believe it's necessary.
 






Slight turn if events. Took motor to an engine shop. Crank shaft is out of spec - it wobbles.

Engine co is already freighting me a new motor. I must say, for a crappy situation, they handled it well, over communicated with me, and sending me a new engine almost without question. Once I have the new engine and it works, I will drop names. They sell used engines too.
 






Your wife must be excited :)
Sorry, had to say it Eddie .........
 






How did they find out the crank shaft is wobbling ?
 






I took the truck to their mechanics for diagnostic work. The rear crank seal started to leak oil due to the vibrations. The vibration is significant. They had the option of rebuilding it but choose to send me a new motor. I think the allowed tolerance is .002. According to their mechanic the wobble - for lack of a better term - far exceeded the tolerance. One of the mechanic thought the balance shaft was put in 180 degrees off. And he also said there are a number of different crank shafts that fit different years - news to me. I expect to receive my new motor on Wednesday or Thursday of next week. I need to get back on the road. I'm considering rebuilding my front pump with an upgrade kit. All the vibration caused some tranny fluid to weep out.
 









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New replacement engine has been installed w new flexplate. Old flexplate was almost egg shaped. The welding of the ring gear was tight on two sides while there was a two mm gap from the ring gear on the other two sides. The engine was out of balance = balance shaft installed 180 degrees off. Tranny isn't leaking so I'm hoping no damage was done to my 6 month old rebuilt trans. The reinstallation was fun for about two hours....
 






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