What would you use for the main audio power wire? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

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What would you use for the main audio power wire?

cgmiller83 said:
Hey Dozier when are you getting back and does Tweeter have it in red 0 gauge at that price?
Tweeters

They come in all colors...
 



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good looking out there nasty.
 






Find out how many amps you are going to draw (output power is a bad way to size wire) how far you are going to run the wire and then use this chart to size your wire

Table B - http://www.e-marine-inc.com/products/mounts/boatwire.html

In a boat where you are often running on a battery that's not being recharged, loss (resistance) is critical in not wasting battery power to get maximum run time and you won't go wrong with this chart although I usually go up one size to lower my loss even more ... not really necessary in a car but still can't hurt

Forget oxygen free cable, you won't find a professional sound man using it ... zip cord for speakers is just fine, just make sure it's heavy enough ... what is critical is shielded line level cable, there you want the best shield you can get although if you have both ends grounded it's NOT a true shield but part of the signal path
 






I ran 4000 watts rms @ 2 ohms to one 15" cerwinvega stroker. 1992 won second place for worlds laudest car stereo. It has a 65 lb magnet alone. That was just sub. I had to run 2-0 gauge wires to the amp. it was only a 4 ft run also because the car had a secondary alternator and battery just for the amp and stereo alone. It was nuts. It was loud.
 






xplor_explorer said:
it was only a 4 ft run also because the car had a secondary alternator and battery just for the amp and stereo alone. It was nuts. It was loud.

i hope you mean secondary alternator and BATTERIES. 4000 watts draws a lot of current. i would think you would have at least 3-5 extra batteries to do so well.
 






Jason94sport said:
I see no differerence in that a name brand that cost 3X more.

One thing that should be pointed out is that the actual hardware (distro blocks/fuse blocks/etc...) IS different from brand to brand.

4 gauge amp kit is $20 at Walmart (Scosche wire is ok, but the hardware's kinda cheap).

And believe me: install GOOD hardware (that will not go bad in a year or so); it has to stand up to underhood conditions (extreme temperatures, vibration, water, oil/grease, etc...)
 






My battery terminals connectors are platinum positive and negative Audiopipe for the time being. I'm thinking of changing the terminals to a Stinger Positive HPM Pro Digital Battery Terminal with Blue Voltage Display and the Stinger HPM Pro Negative Battery Terminal. In the range of $70 for the set. They are so shiny, you can see yourself in them. Both of them are setup to take One 0 Gauge Output and Three 4 Gauge Outputs each. Just to power the front and rear speakers, not counting a sub or subs (yet to be chosen) I'm looking at 1600watts.
 






STINGER is the top-of-the-line product out right now....best of the best
 






leenjen said:
i hope you mean secondary alternator and BATTERIES. 4000 watts draws a lot of current. i would think you would have at least 3-5 extra batteries to do so well.
im running 1500 watts on a stock alt and one battery right now without problems. however if i bump it up to 3000 watts i can stall the truck with a good bass burp even at 2000 rpm.

for street beating and most db drag classes a good HO alternator is the way to go
 






Nasty350LT1 said:
Tweeters

They come in all colors...

I love Tweeter, but...

...they carry Monster Cable Car Audio stuff.

Boycott Monster Cable...
 






there is nothing wrong with monster cable, it is what I used to wire my whole stereo system.
 












yea right overpriced, dud i got 1/0 ga. wire at a cheaper price than most cable that size. I assume you are pist off at the company that makes monster cable because you happened to be one of the very very few unsatisfied customers.
 






LCPL DOZIER said:
yea right overpriced, dud i got 1/0 ga. wire at a cheaper price than most cable that size. I assume you are pist off at the company that makes monster cable because you happened to be one of the very very few unsatisfied customers.

Dude, their speaker wires suck...

...they have been the ONLY brand of wire I've seen were the strains break EVERY time I strip it for use.

You ever look at a roll of their speaker wire???

...wire goes by size; what is Monster hiding by not saying what size their standard speaker is?

Dude, don't fall in to the lies of your Circuit City salesguy...

...Monster is NOT the best.
 






Ok First Off I Never Said Monster Is "the Best" So Use Words Wisely. Also There Buddy I Said I Used 1/0 Ga For A Power Cable And I Used It For Ground Wire And Thats It I Used Street Wires For My Speaker Connections And I Used Street Wires For My Rca's. Chill. And By The Way, You Don't Twist The Wire With 1/0 Ga. Which Is Why I Never Had The Problem With Wires Breaking. I Stripped It Then Connected It. WHEN I SAID I RAN MY WHOLE STEREO SYSTEM OFF IT, WHAT I MEANT WAS THE POWER TO EVERYTHING. And like I said earlier if you read is that I bought it at a place called Tweeter.
 






I am running Stinger 4ga through my truck right now...when I redo my system it will be two runs of 0ga Knukonceptz or two runs of Street Wires...havent decided yet
 






LCPL DOZIER said:
Ok First Off I Never Said Monster Is "the Best" So Use Words Wisely. Also There Buddy I Said I Used 1/0 Ga For A Power Cable And I Used It For Ground Wire And Thats It I Used Street Wires For My Speaker Connections And I Used Street Wires For My Rca's. Chill. And By The Way, You Don't Twist The Wire With 1/0 Ga. Which Is Why I Never Had The Problem With Wires Breaking. I Stripped It Then Connected It. WHEN I SAID I RAN MY WHOLE STEREO SYSTEM OFF IT, WHAT I MEANT WAS THE POWER TO EVERYTHING. And like I said earlier if you read is that I bought it at a place called Tweeter.

I'm not twisting it; the strands are breaking every time you strip it. No other brand of wire I have used (from cheap automotive stuff to quality industrial stuff) breaks when you strip it.

I love Tweeter; I bought most of my home audio from them. I might have them install remote start on my upcoming leased vehicle from work (debating between them and local shop (same brand - possible different models; both I can get some kind of disount - 10% vs. something installed free).

I'm glad that Tweeter is finally carrying something else (besides Monster) for theater interconnects; it's bad when customers don't have other brands to choose from.

I guess the big question: is would you further support those thugs? Forget about if you found their wire cheap again: do you support the corporate strong-arm tactics?

http://ttabvue.uspto.gov/ttabvue/v?...ameop=&propname=&pop=&pn=&pop2=&pn2=&cop=&cn=

You do realize that their taking the profit they made from people like to sue people who have nothing to do with wire/cable/interconnects? I don't know about you, but I feel bad for sites like monstervintage (some little guy trying to sell retro-style chothes).
 






No I wouldn't further support them, but my point was yes that I did buy it, and not one strand came off and I am completely satisfied with the 1/0 ga. monster cable. That was all I said. What they are doing might be wrong, but there is nothing anyone can do to stop it, so whats the point in proceeding in complaining about it.
 






LCPL DOZIER said:
No I wouldn't further support them, but my point was yes that I did buy it, and not one strand came off and I am completely satisfied with the 1/0 ga. monster cable. That was all I said. What they are doing might be wrong, but there is nothing anyone can do to stop it, so whats the point in proceeding in complaining about it.

There is something we can do...

...hit 'em were it hurts; their wallets.

Tell anybody and everybody what this company does...

...educate people that there are other brands that are better and/or cheaper.
 



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