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Whats the best sub woofer for $350 and under?

IMO most ED, or RE subs will smoke the w6v2 in the pricerange
 



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Go with a kicker 12" L7, thats what I have and powered by the jbl gto1201.1 its a serious system
 






Bostwick ive had a lil bit of everything an i have there vote
 






i can get you an entire system ( minus headunit ) for less then $400. Sherwood amp, 2 12" kickers in box.

probably the best amps on the market for the price is Audiotek. 800 (true) watt amps for 200 bucks and they just as good as any JL amp

be a man, rig some klipsch speakers up for your ride
 






Wudup yo word said:
i can get you an entire system ( minus headunit ) for less then $400. Sherwood amp, 2 12" kickers in box.

probably the best amps on the market for the price is Audiotek. 800 (true) watt amps for 200 bucks and they just as good as any JL amp

be a man, rig some klipsch speakers up for your ride
the brand is autotek....they're very much the same as hifonics. good for the money though.

btw sherwood amps are ****
 






JBL P1220DII http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLP1220DII amazing subs heard them in a guys car that works down at a huge radio store here in miami, hes won 16 trophies with his setup, he has an old 1200.1 JBL amp pushing 2 of them and it sounded so loud i had to get out of his car.. then later i got in my car with my system to the loudest and i could hear his bass as if i had his subs in my car u cant go wrong with them... i just got the new JBL 1200.1 http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLGTO12011 pushing my ****ty sony subs and it BANGS HARD im gonna get the 2 JBL subs asap im short on cash... :( :exp:
 






btw sherwood amps are ****

an amp is an amp, if you know what your doing.

350 watts for 150 bucks? cant go wrong there...

i put one of those in a friend of mines jeep. She ran it over a year (with 12" kickers) and sold it to another friend of mine... still pumpin louder then my 3 JL Wo's on an 400w rockford

You cant beat JL man. I have had my JLs since 2001, which i bought from my cousin for 150 bucks with the powerwedge box. He actually got them from a friend of his in a trade for 2 MTX 7000's in a pair of 2x 3 JL WO's... basically 6 Wos in a box. They were originally from 1998. These speakers are 7 years old, ive blown them twice, and they were blown when i got them. Still repairable, still boomin. JL = only way to go
 






power acoustik: the FBX and the FUBR 12s are verrry hard hitting quality subs for $100-$110. They do well in ported and when I say well, i mean it. They are dual 2 ohm so they can be wired to 1/2 ohm. Add a boss pd-3000 and you will lose all your hearing and set off car alarms. This is a combination of subs that I think certainly out hits a Jl w6v2 because I have heard both. And the price difference is killer. Build the box to spec get two of those 12s and that amp....450 dollars in all. Great deal, great subs. (The only negative reviews on these subs is from dumbasses who underpowered them causing the voice coils to melt. These subs are like 1400 rms, plenty of power is needed.)
 






Wudup yo word said:
You cant beat JL man......JL = only way to go

I beat up on JL all the time :o
 






Wudup yo word said:
an amp is an amp, if you know what your doing.

350 watts for 150 bucks? cant go wrong there...
except it will put out way less power than its rated and it will be dirty as hell. Not all amps are the same build quality.

power acoustic mofos are supposed to be very good SPL subs for the money
 






crazyfoolreal said:
(The only negative reviews on these subs is from dumbasses who underpowered them causing the voice coils to melt. These subs are like 1400 rms, plenty of power is needed.)

simply, no....
 






Wagonized said:
except it will put out way less power than its rated and it will be dirty as hell. Not all amps are the same build quality.

power acoustic mofos are supposed to be very good SPL subs for the money
melting due to lack of heat hmmmm thats a new one :roll:
 






SUBS DONT FRY FROM TOO MUCH POWER. Subs blow apart or PHYSICALLY break from too much power. Voicecoils smoke from TOO LITTLE power. most of you have probably stoped reading my review at this point because you think I'm nuts. But if you want to hear the truth believe me and keep reading. Amps have a thing called a power rail. It's the maximum posative and negative that the sine wave can sweep back and forth through. Turning up the volume makes the slopes higher on the wave, which makes the speaker push faster and further back and forth (not faster in the sence of higher frequency but if it's going to move further from point a to point b in the same amount of time it must move faster) as the music is turned up the sine wave hits the max on the power rail. the sub is louder. the user turns up the music more. now you have steeper sides on the wave but the top of the wave has sqared off. Some people think that the sub is louder at this point because the sub moves faster than it did, due to the increased slope, and intertia may alow it to move further during the clipped off portion of the wave. But the damage occurs because of the flattend off wave. this is effectivly feeding the sub D.C. A.C. makes coils generate magnetic fiels. D.C. makes coils generate heat. That's what blows speakers.
^this is off a review for some power acoustiks on car domain...
 






crazyfoolreal said:
SUBS DONT FRY FROM TOO MUCH POWER. Subs blow apart or PHYSICALLY break from too much power. Voicecoils smoke from TOO LITTLE power. most of you have probably stoped reading my review at this point because you think I'm nuts. But if you want to hear the truth believe me and keep reading. Amps have a thing called a power rail. It's the maximum posative and negative that the sine wave can sweep back and forth through. Turning up the volume makes the slopes higher on the wave, which makes the speaker push faster and further back and forth (not faster in the sence of higher frequency but if it's going to move further from point a to point b in the same amount of time it must move faster) as the music is turned up the sine wave hits the max on the power rail. the sub is louder. the user turns up the music more. now you have steeper sides on the wave but the top of the wave has sqared off. Some people think that the sub is louder at this point because the sub moves faster than it did, due to the increased slope, and intertia may alow it to move further during the clipped off portion of the wave. But the damage occurs because of the flattend off wave. this is effectivly feeding the sub D.C. A.C. makes coils generate magnetic fiels. D.C. makes coils generate heat. That's what blows speakers.
^this is off a review for some power acoustiks on car domain...
the truth is...subs DO NOT blow from too little power. subs blow from a clipped signal. The owners are often stupid and think that they're subs can handle far more power than they are currently so they jack up the gain on the amp. Sending a distorted signal which blows the sub.

If you set your gains properly on an underpowered setup it should last forever.
 






except it will put out way less power than its rated and it will be dirty as hell. Not all amps are the same build quality.

I think what your talking about is RMS/True wattage and Max power. Most high-profile companies like sony and now Rockford Fosgate (hense they never used to be big on this) like to put the MAX power as adverisment all over the amp so people think it puts out more thne it does

An amp only puts out as much as what note is playing in the song or what frequency that note is on.

As far as quality, you only gonna use a small amp for small speakers. Distortion is all in how its set up, you gotta be a dumbass if you can figureout how to make even the ****tiest amps sound clean. Ive bought 200 watt Amps from radioshack when they still carried their own brand for 50 bucks worked GREAT on a pair of 12". It all boils down to how you set/adjust things... keep the ohm load equal and hit or go beyond that RMS and VOILA! BUMP!



subs DO NOT blow from too little power. subs blow from a clipped signal.

Your half right

too little power is worse then too much power

distortion is what screws speakers up

that simple
 






Wudup yo word said:
I think what your talking about is RMS/True wattage and Max power. Most high-profile companies like sony and now Rockford Fosgate (hense they never used to be big on this) like to put the MAX power as adverisment all over the amp so people think it puts out more thne it does

An amp only puts out as much as what note is playing in the song or what frequency that note is on.

As far as quality, you only gonna use a small amp for small speakers. Distortion is all in how its set up, you gotta be a dumbass if you can figureout how to make even the ****tiest amps sound clean. Ive bought 200 watt Amps from radioshack when they still carried their own brand for 50 bucks worked GREAT on a pair of 12". It all boils down to how you set/adjust things... keep the ohm load equal and hit or go beyond that RMS and VOILA! BUMP!





Your half right

too little power is worse then too much power

distortion is what screws speakers up

that simple
what im talking about is many many companies overrated their products to make them appear better than they are.

too little power is not better than too much if its clean power. Will a 500 hp engine wear out quicker at 2000 rpm or 8000 rpm?
 






Wagonized said:
the truth is...subs DO NOT blow from too little power. subs blow from a clipped signal. The owners are often stupid and think that they're subs can handle far more power than they are currently so they jack up the gain on the amp. Sending a distorted signal which blows the sub.

If you set your gains properly on an underpowered setup it should last forever.
That is exactly right.

http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm

"Too Little Power:
As you have probably heard, some people say that too little power can blow speakers. Well... How can I say this... BULL S***"
 






jl audio no doubt for the money its a steal there **** be underrated and nothin can come close to there ****. one 12 well put u in the runnin of two of any other sub
 









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jl audio is just underrated man it will stomp any sub u put forward with the rite amp

except a DD, RE, Kicker, T3, Cactus Sounds, or anything decent and not mainstream.
 






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