What's the net lift from BTF spacers?

[Tarpman]

I've got to do some front end work on my Explorer and will probably be contacting Brandon about spacers. My question is if I get the 1.75"front and 1.25"rear is that the amount of lift I will get, because i thought I saw somewhere on here that you end up with a little more because of suspension geometry. Was hoping somebody could clarify this for me, don't know if I should go with the above mentioned size or 1.5"front & 1.0rear. Need some advise.

 

[Ronin8002]

It's around 1.5" of lift for every 1.0" inch of spacer.

So a 1.75" front / 1.25" rear should get you a little over 2" in the front and a little less than 2" in the rear. Should level it out as well.

 

[Tarpman]

Thanks for the info Ronin. I have another question, how do I know if i should replace struts at same time? I was thinking since I'll be in there and have it all taken apart I would do that too, I'm replacing uca w/ball joints and bushings, and possibly lowers. Is it worth paying extra for Moog? The thing is I have about (now don't choke) 293,000 miles on it. When I do the bounce test they're fine, when I'm rolling down highway it seems fine, no out of control bouncing. Is there a different way i should check these because they're more like a strut? A lot friends and people who would know around here tell me leave them alone and save my money if they aren't acting up, but they have close to 300,000 miles on them, but 98% of that is commuting miles @ 80 round trip per day since 2003. Hardly any off road, which is going to change soon, tired of working all the time and I must make time for playing with the kids and get them away from video games, LOL. What do you think

 

[Teejay4490]

With the amount of miles if it were me I'd replace everything in the front end..btw, is it the original motor?

 

[Ronin8002]

Agree with Teejay, might as well replace the struts/springs while it's apart, esp because you'll be offroading. I guess you could wait but at some point before too long you're going to want to swap them out anyway...might as well save yourself some work. The Strutteks are cheap and you get a new spring on each one too. Since you are staying with stock type ball joints I'd say its worth doing the Moogs.

Thanks for the info Ronin. I have another question, how do I know if i should replace struts at same time? I was thinking since I'll be in there and have it all taken apart I would do that too, I'm replacing uca w/ball joints and bushings, and possibly lowers. Is it worth paying extra for Moog? The thing is I have about (now don't choke) 293,000 miles on it. When I do the bounce test they're fine, when I'm rolling down highway it seems fine, no out of control bouncing. Is there a different way i should check these because they're more like a strut? A lot friends and people who would know around here tell me leave them alone and save my money if they aren't acting up, but they have close to 300,000 miles on them, but 98% of that is commuting miles @ 80 round trip per day since 2003. Hardly any off road, which is going to change soon, tired of working all the time and I must make time for playing with the kids and get them away from video games, LOL. What do you think

 

[Tarpman]

With the amount of miles if it were me I'd replace everything in the front end..btw, is it the original motor?

I had motor replaced w/rebuilt motorcraft at about 278,000 I got a great deal on price of motor through a friend at Ford. The only other things I have replaced are the alternator, battery, one battery cable, front hubs. Then of course normal stuff filters, plugs etc... I'm convinced these are great vehicles. I don't care if some or most call them soccer mom cars. LOL. If that's the case then I've seen some sweet looking soccer mom trucks on here

 

[Teejay4490]

Nice! im glad yours has treated you so wel..mines had a few kinks..blown motor and tranny both before 120,000( I think it was me and the previous owners fault) and an alternator.