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wheel alignment

pwhip91

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Year, Model & Trim Level
'91 EXPLORER XLT
I got a 91 XLT. The front tires have way too much positive camber. I replaced all the balljoints and the camber bushings. The front tires camber really bad on a flat surface but when park in my drive which is an upward slant the tires go back to normal camber. Can radius arm bushing cause this ? There is nothing bent. Anybody have any ideas that would cause this ?
 



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I don't think radius arm bushings will give you what you are describing. Probably a dumb question, but did you get an alignment done after replacing the ball joints and camber bushings? Also, what about the tie rod ends?
 






I got a 91 XLT. The front tires have way too much positive camber. I replaced all the balljoints and the camber bushings. The front tires camber really bad on a flat surface but when park in my drive which is an upward slant the tires go back to normal camber. Can radius arm bushing cause this ? There is nothing bent. Anybody have any ideas that would cause this ?

Positive camber is leaning out on the top of the wheel...

They camber out at the top on a regular surface and fix when the suspension decompresses(the weight pushed back by parking up an incline)

This doesnt make sense given the normal workings of a TTB suspension...

The wheels naturally camber to the negative when the suspension compresses. Its the nature of the TTB suspension. Youll notice as you lift the truck off the wheels they lean out as it goes up... Normal for your suspension. Thats why they have the camber bushings, and why they are adjustable.

It would make sense that they had a large NEG camber (wheels leaning in at top)and it fixed when parking facing up an incline...

Is this what you meant?

OK Been there, Done that, not to worry.

Sounds like there is too many degrees of NEG camber in the bushings... those bushings have several settings they can be placed in and it sounds like they are wrong.

If you put them in and adjusted them while the truck had no weight on the suspension and then set it down, this would cause this problem.

I'd say get an alignment done and if you have the right bushings now they should be able to square it away.

Another option...

find a level spot of ground
set BOTH SIDES of the truck on jack stands with the weight on the suspension (jack stands under suspension)
get a magnetic level and place it on the rotor (on a flat part)
adjust the bushings until it is as close as it can be to level.

this will get you pretty near perfect. this is how I did it with 2 Rangers a Bronco II and a Gen 1 Ex I had and it was always within tolerance on the alignment machine.

Hope this helps you :D
 






Thanks for the reply. I adjusted the camber bushings. I still have problems. When i reverse down my driveway the wheels camber negative really bad and when I drive forward they camber positive. I've repaced the balljoints, tie rods and radius arm bushings so far. I heard from someone that the axle pivot bushings can cause this. What do you think ? the pivot bushins look like they re toast.
 






Thanks for the reply. I adjusted the camber bushings.

Youre welcome. :biggthump

I still have problems. When i reverse down my driveway the wheels camber negative really bad and when I drive forward they camber positive. I've repaced the balljoints, tie rods and radius arm bushings so far. I heard from someone that the axle pivot bushings can cause this. What do you think ? the pivot bushins look like they re toast.

Yeah that can cause it, especially if they look like they are toast.

that allows play on the opposite side of the I beam and would cause opposite reations to compression and expansion of the suspension.

Do you hear any noise like a clunk or feel a shift or play as this is happening?

Those bushings aren't fun to change out...night want to have a buddy around for this one.
 












axle pivot bushings

Okay well I did the axle pivot bushings. I still have the same problem. Im at a stand still. When I back down the driveway the wheels camber negative pretty bad and I drive up they camber positive. Im taking it for a an alignment tomorrow but I have a feeling its not the problem. I've replaced eveything that I can think of. Any ideas ?? Thanks
 






Check the toe, I imagine too much toe in will cause your problems.
 






Are we talking a stock suspension here? You could get positive camber like you describe if you (or a previous owner) threw in some 2" lift coils or spacers...
 






...When I back down the driveway the wheels camber negative pretty bad and I drive up they camber positive. ...Any ideas ?? Thanks


Can you get us some pics of what you are talking about?

What youre saying doesnt make sense to me after verifying all the components you verified as good or replaced....

when youre backing down the driveway your weight should be shifted off of the front making it camber positive...

only thing I can think of is a problem in the bearing / spindle area...

I have a feeling some pictures would tell the tale, and we could help you out alot more...

A few sets of pics of you on the driveway, each including a pass side, drivers side, and front veiw:

  • one set as if you were backing down it
  • one set as if you were driving forward down it
  • one set on a level surface

If you need help posting them let me know, or you can send them to me and Ill post them up for you

daniel.r.floyd1@us.army.mil
 






have you changed the height of your truck?

Positive Camber

When the bottom of the tire is more inwards and the top is out, that is referred to as positive camber. Positive camber wears the outside of the tires at a rapid rate. Positive camber is generally the result of a bad alignment or wearing ball joint. A camber kit is not usually required for this because replacing the faulty part and realignment generally pulls everything into spec. One time a camber kit will be needed for positive camber is when the vehicles ride height is raised. When it is raised, it puts stress on the top ball joint because the wheels lifting motion conflicts with the ball joint position therefore pushing it to the side. With an adjustable camber kit, this is corrected by sliding the ball joint back inwards, towards the motor, to bring the wheel back into spec.

Negative Camber

When the top of the tire is more towards the center of the vehicle and the bottom is outwards, that is measured in negative camber. Negative camber wears the inside of your tires at a rapid rate. Lowering a vehicle brings the entire chassis closer to the tires. Everything is moving downwards except the tires. Obviously they cannot go down any more because they are on the ground. Since suspension is put together with the factory ride height in mind, parts are made to be installed and have near 0 degree camber. By lowering the suspension components but not the wheel, the wheel in essence lowers itself by tilting inwards. A camber kit corrects this problem by extending the length of the upper control arm, allowing the ball joint which holds the control arm in place to be adjusted. It can be moved out for negative camber correction or in for positive correction. This along with an alignment correction is the ultimate defense against camber wear.
 






I took it in for an alignment and the mechanic told me that it was way out of wack. The alignment fixed the problem finally. Sorry about the posts not making sense it's new to me. Now I need to make this explorer not stock.
 






Its all good, we all start somewhere :biggthump

Start with a mild lift and some 33's. The sky is the limit from there!
 






I took it in for an alignment and the mechanic told me that it was way out of wack. The alignment fixed the problem finally. Sorry about the posts not making sense it's new to me. Now I need to make this explorer not stock.

Do you know what all they did for the alignment, how much did you pay, and did they have to replace any bushings? Or did they just adjust the toe?

I am having the same problem, pulls to the right, noticeably.
 






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