Where are the hubs... ?

[Lamah]

hey everyone,
my 4wd doesnt work very well ... in fact its more of 3 wheel drive. I want to replace the hubs with warn manual hubs, but I can figure out where the hubs are. The only thing i can think of it being is thost things that stick out at the ends of the front axels, and before i spend 180 bucks on the hubs and the kit, i want to make sure.

Also, What is there to the kit? what do you have to do to make the explorer ready for manuals? i also dont want to get into this and find out i have no clue what i'm doing =/.

Thanks, Lamah

 

[Lamah]

if anyone has pictures, i'd appreciate that as well.

--Lamah

 

[mrboyle]

Here is a link that does a fairly good job of describing what the job involves. Sorry no photos though. http://www.4x4central.com/tips.htm#bearing

You may also consider getting a Haynes, Chilton or Mitchell manual for your Explorer. There are excelent description, photos and drawings in these books that will help.

 

[mmcgovern919]

Yes, the hubs are on the end of the axles. If you take off the front tires the hubs are the next thing you see. (if you look at the end of the axle with your tire on, you should see an "Automatic 4x4" decal. That is your hub.
I may not understand the whole 4x4 concept completely, but as I understand it, it isn't truly four wheel drive. Basically, when you get stuck (or your back wheels spin), the engine provides power to the two wheels which aren't stuck. This could be front wheels, back wheels or a combination thereof. It doesn't sound like the truck should ever have all 4 wheels getting power at once. Sorry if I'm stating the obvious. (If I'm mistaken about this, someone please correct me) If you are concerned that all four tires aren't getting power at once, I don't think they're supposed to. I know you can convert your Explorer to "real" 4x4 (where all wheels turn all the time) but I think it's $2-3K per wheel and is really hard on the axles.
As for the conversion kit, I haven't done it so I can't say how hard it is. I wouldn't think it would be that hard. Either way, it shouldn't be too hard to do with all the help available on this website.

 

[SteveVB]

Lamah,

MM above was sort of correct about how 4wd works. The transfer case in a 4wd(one without a diff in the case- a non all wheel drive )provides power 50% to the front and 50% to the rear all the time it is in 4wd. The axles with no TAD' s( traction adding differentials) then split the power to each wheel depending on a bunch of things, but basically will give the power to the wheel with the least avail traction. The axle has pinion gears to allow the wheels to travel different distances during turns which allow one axle shaft to spin faster than another. So if one wheel starts to spin the diff thinks is going around a corner and lets it spin faster transferring the power to the spinning wheel while letting the slower wheel (the one with the traction) free wheel with little or no power. Example, a four wheel drive vehicle with two wheels on the same side on ice will spin both tires on the ice, also the same vehicle with two opposite wheels(RF, LR) on ice will also spin the wheels on the ice, but if both wheels on the same axle are on ice then the other axle will push or pull it through. So if the auto hubs are working and you want to rid yourself of the spinning wheel, the manual hubs wont help. If the auto hubs are broken that can be fixed with the manuals.

To get both wheels on an axle spinning the same speed you need some kind of limited slip, locker, or spool depending on the use to lock both halves of the axle together. Costs are from $300 to 1000 per axle depending on who does the work and what you put in.

OK, hope that clears it up some, may not be the best- Im sure someone has a better- or knows where a better-explanation of the 4WD system. Do a search for Limited slip, or locker on this site for more discussion of these.

Have Fun

[Edited by SteveVB on 01-14-2001 at 12:32 PM]

 

[carrotcloud]

Replacing the auto with manual hubs is a real easy job, it almost seems too easy. With the conversion kit you'll get three nuts. I opted to save $30.00 and used the Spicer conversion kit with the Warn hubs, have not experienced any trouble. The hardest things were removing the key from the auto hubs, and torquing one of the nuts to 150. Like the article says, it would be a good time to replace/check those front bearings. Good luck!!!

 

[Lamah]

thanks guys, but the part i dont really understand is ... when i want to engage it, where is the part i turn to lock ? i dont understand where that goes.

thanks,
Lamah

 

[carrotcloud]

If you have the automatic hubs they will engage - automatically.

 

[Lamah]

i meant manual's

 

[-=DaemoN=-]

it's on the hubs.

 

[Lamah]

erm ... well i gathererd that. so does it stick out from the center of wheel?

 

[Brian1]

Okay, look at the ones you have on now that stick out of the front wheel. Now imagine on the flat surface where it says 4x4 that there will be a flat knob right there that turns. Nothing too complicated. It is all part of the replacement manual hub.

 

[Lamah]

ok, thats what i figured, but i was just making sure.

thanks,
Lamah