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Which cam?

jason5.0L

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April 17, 2011
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City, State
Fort Lauderdale, Fl
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 XLT AWD 5.0L
I have a '96 XLT 5.0L with a K&N FIPK and dual magnaflow setup. I'm trying to get it up to 300-330hp, I plan to get TQM headers and a cam, but not sure which cam to use. I don't want a real loppy cam, something that'll sound and drive fairly reasonable for a daily driver. Any suggestions?
 



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To get 300hp to the wheels you're going to have to do much more than a cam. Even with better flowing heads and an aggressive cam the 5.o will not put down 300 at the wheels, but I have read and heard to stay away from the Ford letter cams. Go custom. I have a buddy who has a set of AFR heads, a custom cam, custom headers and a dyno shop got him around 248hp to the wheels.
 






Well factory that motor came with around 210-215. TQM headers claim to give 20hp and the cam should be in that range at least. I plan on porting the heads too. A guy from Jegs told me this would

workhttp://www.jegs.com/i/Comp+Cams/249/35-351-8/10002/-1

it's a comp cam, which is one of the top brands I just didn't know if anyone's heard anything about them or knows how they perform.
 






if you wanna get your 5.0 to 300hp you're going to have to dump some serious coin into it.

The 96 5.0 came with 211 from the factory. Now I know that since it's a 96 it's probably got some wear and tear, which will drop the 211 down. You're gonna have to make up at least 90ponies. I suggest a Kenne Bell and some new heads.

Comp cams are good cams.
 






The 96 5.0 came with 211 from the factory.

man.. that's sad, lol

my old 95 eclipse (turbo 2.0L I-4 AWD) came with 210 stock

it was putting down 305 to the wheels when i sold it (mild turbo upgrade, intercooler, fuel, etc) it was my daily driver for 11yrs
 






Yea I don't know why for the 5.0 they dropped the HP down, you'd think it'd be closer at least to 250hp. I can buy a brand new 302ci from Ford for around $3800 but I don't want to put up that kind of money yet. I want to do what I can to this first, maybe tune it, redo/port the heads, headers, a cam, and there is actually one underdrive pulley set jet claims to make that fits the '96 5.0.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JET-90103/

besides that, maybe electric cooling fans and better plugs, advance the timing..
 






I would definitely plan all that out cost wise. It might not be all that much more to just drop that new motor in
 












I can see 300 at the fly, but not at the wheels unless you do some serious work and spending. Much more so than you mention above. I have plenty of friends who build 5.0s in their off road race trucks and only one gets over 300 to the wheels that Danzio built. Its a 331 Stroker with a lot of work and On the dyno with 35" tires it put down 306 hp at the wheels with a c-4 trans.
 






The biggest limiting factor is the head/piston combo...you can't put a huge cam in there, as there will be PtV clearance issues....and `96 were non-P heads. And with the cam upgrade, you should get new springs too...

But keeping your long block together, about 300 is possible....Not OVER that though...But you are going to have to pull out all the stops....

A decent cam, even something like the TFS Stage 1 cam is good for the money. The TFS Track Heat Intake, Roller Rockers, Electric Fan, Mac Intake Tube & Open Element Air Filter & TMH's...Add a SCT Tuner, tuned by Henson Motorsports....and you WILL have 300 HP to the wheels....barely...

Add some 4.10 gears, and a Shift Kit by Fairbanks...and go show some Ricers what an SUV can do!


Ryan
 






Or you could drop that 3800, have a fresh motor with more power.. Hmmmm
 






Yea that new 306 is sounding better.. it comes straight from Ford supposedly 340HP and 310ft/lb torque 9:1 comp with a ford 12,000mile warranty. Unless anyone knows of a good company that can build a solid engine for a little less with a decent warranty??
 






its 340hp with super flowing exhaust, unrestrictive intake setup, correct programming, etc...other words, in ideal conditions. And warranty shmarranty....that is all ;)
 






Jason I'm almost in the same boat as you. I don't want to drop a (Excuse my pun) "Truck" ton of dough on my planned engine project. But I do want to re-build it , with a beefier cam and valve train.
I got in contact with Cam motion http://www.cammotion.com:80/Default.aspx
They sent me a pdf file to fill out asking about my engine. Anyone know all the internal specs on GT-40 p head 5.0 Explorer motors? As in intake/ lift duration, bore stroke, head flow, etc.?? If I can fill that
information out and return they will be able to help me with a recommended cam and parts to go with it. At that point I may be able to help you out in your quest to beef your engine up too. :salute:
 






That sounds good, yea if you found out anything let me know. I have a under drive pulley that fits that engine as well, I know a lot of people had trouble finding one. the Jet 90103 pulley fits that motor, waiting on it to come in. Once I put it in, I'll let you know if it's worth it
 






How many miles do you have on this snail? And why would you dump all this coin in the motor without rebuild and fresh-n it up first? You dumping or idealing around doing all this is a waste. You will not be happy after you are done, and you are going to say to yourself that I should of just rebuilt it with some aftermarket internals and be done with it. Not to bust your bubble any, but adding on this stuff is like polishing a turd, after it is all said and done, it is still a turd.

You need to rethink your wants and do it right and not waste all the coin polishing it.

Take it for what you will, but I bet you have a good bit of mileage on engine and trans. You go adding all this and you are going to wear that worn motor even sooner.
 






There is 130k on my explorer, but at 100k i put all new hoses and gaskets and took everything apart and cleaned it. Also put in a new transfer case a few months ago. It's running like new still, no problems. The tranny needs some minor work, it's shuttering a little from time to time but the fix should't be much. It's a good solid motor that I've taken care of so there are no issues with it at all.
 






There is 130k on my explorer, but at 100k i put all new hoses and gaskets and took everything apart and cleaned it. Also put in a new transfer case a few months ago.

Gaskets and cleaning intake parts and the such is not what I was speaking of, rebuild the motor is what I was speaking of. The rinks and pistons, rod bearings, crank mic'd, block worked, heads and valves and valve seats and seals. The internals, gaskets are not going to get nothing accomplished but leak prevention. I am not trying to be a a** here with you. But I think personally that you should be looking at the big picture here for longivity and dependability. Like I mentioned earlier, you start adding cam, and odds and ends will wear your motor out much sooner than going thru the whole motor. It will save you money in the long run of things.

Anyway, it is my 2 cents worth, it is your ride, but hate to see you take this journey and you spend more than you should have on a fix here, and a repair there becuse you half a**'d it.
 






No I appreciate the advice, it makes sense. It's tough to say what would happen when more stress is on the engine then was supposed to be from the factory. You think the best bet later down the road when I can save up is to get an engine built from Ford that has a warranty and everything?
 



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You think the best bet later down the road when I can save up is to get an engine built from Ford that has a warranty and everything?

No that is not what I am saying. What I am saying is go online like Sumitt Racing or Jegs, and purchase a rebuild kit for the 5.0, and whatever performance parts you want also. Then do the rebuild, then build it the way you want it, cam, pistons, valves, rockers, intake, throttle body, injectors, fuel rails, fuel pump, fuel reg, and a possible tune to go with it. All this will increase HP, improve stability, and last you awhile with a sense of piece of mind knowing it is like new again with your own hands if you are so inclined and capable.

It is better to start from the ground floor than to start somewhere in the middle and throw money at a weak worn engine.
 






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