C420sailor
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- July 29, 2008
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- Long Island, NY
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 98 XLT SOHC, 99 EB 5.0L
Depends on your definition of “thinner”.
The problem is that this isn’t as simple as ‘lighter base stock equals better.’ There is actual engineering that goes behind oil weight recommendations from manufacturers.
Going from, say, a 10W30 to a 0W30 will result in a different viscosity gradient with respect to temperature. This will result in a reduction in viscosity across the board, except at whichever temp correlates to the 30wt. This is why we don’t have 0W100 oils and run them in every vehicle out there—the viscosity gradient would be steep as hell, and the oil would be more resistant to flow than desired at nearly every temperature.
Now, none of this is necessarily bad. But, you have to also remember that the characteristics of an oil system are a major factor. An oil pump, like most things in the world, has a sweet spot. There is a particular fluid viscosity that will make it operate most efficiently. In fact, in some types of pumps that are designed for “thicker” fluids, an excessively thin fluid won’t pump well—or at all.
In other words, thinner is not always better, and it does not always result in the least startup wear. Especially in an older engine, an oil with lower viscosity may not develop pressure as rapidly due to larger bearing clearances and such. A higher pump RPM may be required to overcome those losses and develop sufficient pressure. Pressure is of critical importance.
The only surefire way to determine which oil weight is best is to instrument the engine and analyze the data. I doubt anyone here is willing to do that, so the best method (in my opinion) is to stick with the manufacturer’s rec unless you have a good reason to deviate (like extreme climate or wear) and do so carefully and incrementally.
The problem is that this isn’t as simple as ‘lighter base stock equals better.’ There is actual engineering that goes behind oil weight recommendations from manufacturers.
Going from, say, a 10W30 to a 0W30 will result in a different viscosity gradient with respect to temperature. This will result in a reduction in viscosity across the board, except at whichever temp correlates to the 30wt. This is why we don’t have 0W100 oils and run them in every vehicle out there—the viscosity gradient would be steep as hell, and the oil would be more resistant to flow than desired at nearly every temperature.
Now, none of this is necessarily bad. But, you have to also remember that the characteristics of an oil system are a major factor. An oil pump, like most things in the world, has a sweet spot. There is a particular fluid viscosity that will make it operate most efficiently. In fact, in some types of pumps that are designed for “thicker” fluids, an excessively thin fluid won’t pump well—or at all.
In other words, thinner is not always better, and it does not always result in the least startup wear. Especially in an older engine, an oil with lower viscosity may not develop pressure as rapidly due to larger bearing clearances and such. A higher pump RPM may be required to overcome those losses and develop sufficient pressure. Pressure is of critical importance.
The only surefire way to determine which oil weight is best is to instrument the engine and analyze the data. I doubt anyone here is willing to do that, so the best method (in my opinion) is to stick with the manufacturer’s rec unless you have a good reason to deviate (like extreme climate or wear) and do so carefully and incrementally.