Why by an Explorer?

[Tom Coles]

Who better to ask then Explorer owners the following questions.

I'm looking at either the 94 or 95 model year (cost is the main reason). I am aware of the re-vamped look in 95. One of my mechanics advised to stay, no I think he said run away for the "Exploder". He said tranny's are a big problem. Parts for the V6 are really expensive and the 4.0L (push rod) is made in Germany (maybe that is where the expensive parts come into play).

I have done a fair amount of research on mid-size SUV's and always come back to the Explorer. So ...what are the areas that you would recommend I watch out for. Is there any model that I should stay away from.

Your thoughts please.

Thanks,

Tom

PS This SUV will be used for some light off roading.

 

[rpenner54]

Good questions. I will start with why I like it. I like it because of the room inside of it. There are very few other SUV's that offer the same if more room. The only two that I can think of are Isuzu Rodeo's and Trooper's. However they are somewhat underpowered. As far as the off-road useability there is Loads and loads and loads of tech articles on here modding both the 94 and the 95. The 94 is by far easier and cheaper to mod.

As far as the trannies go, yes they have troubles. No real getting around that one. The engines don't really seem to have expensive parts if you ask me. They really don't break that often to even want to buy replacement stuff for them.

 

[Jason_25]

Why buy an explorer? I ask, why not buy an explorer? For the value, they cannot be beat. The auto trannies are a pretty big issue, I know. Why not get a manual? Also, if you buy a 95, it comes equipped with the 4R55E, as opposed to the A4LD. THe 4R55E tranny is a little stronger than the A4LD is, and is electronically controlled. For offroading, the 94 will be better. But compared to the 95 in almost every other category, it comes up short. Parts for the OHV are NOT expensive. I don't know who told you that but they are wrong. Let me conclude with a quote from the main page of the site.

“What?” “Build an Explorer!” “Why?

With the Ford Explorer being the #1 SUV in America for nearly a decade there is certainly no one who is un-familiar with this vehicle. The trouble is that most people equate a Ford Explorer with soccer moms and shopping malls rather than off road trails such as the Rubicon and Terminator.

The Ford Explorer may be the best kept secret in the off-road world. When these rigs are stock they are capable off-road performers. After a few modifications they become nearly unstoppable.

From 1991-1994 the Ford Explorer platform came with a full ladder type frame, 8.8” 31 spline rear axle, Dana 35 Twin Traction Beam (TTB) front suspension (axle diameters and U-joints are the same as a Dana 44), choice of manual or electronic shift transfer cases with low range, manual or automatic locking hubs, and a torquey, reliable 4.0L V-6.

In 1995 Ford changed the front suspension in the Explorer to an IFS system (Independent Front Suspension). Although the IFS systems offer less wheel travel than the TTB systems, they have proven themselves to be extremely reliable off-road. In fact I have yet to see someone break ANY component in their IFS system while offroading.

Unfortunately there is currently not a locker or limited slip unit available for the IFS Explorer application. We hope in the future a manufacturer will recognize the need and demand for this product in the market place.

So, what does it take to make the Explorer “really” off-road worthy? The same type of modifications as any other rig. Large tires for flotation and ground clearance. A lift to accommodate the big tires. Re-gearing to compensate for the larger diameter of the tires and a locker or two for putting the power to the ground. Approach and departure angles can be maximized by installing aftermarket bumpers, and the break over angle is excellent since the transfercase is tucked well up within the frame rails.

Check out our feature trucks and look through our past “Serious Explorations” off-road adventures. See for yourself just what kind of a performer the Explorer really is!"

 

[Tom Coles]

Thanks for the quick response. My main use for the Explorer is in the city. Although I can't see myself doing any serious off-roading I will need the 4x4 capabilities for my work (sometimes). I do plan to pull a trailer with a couple of Atv's.

What about the engine choice. Push-rod or SOHC?

Tom

 

[Jason_25]

Depends on who you ask. Why not get the V8 with all wheel drive? They are no more expensive used, they have a reliable tranny (4R70W). and are quite powerful. They started being made in 1996.

The debate being the SOHC and OHV is pretty heated. I honestly don't know what to tell you about them. But whatever you get, make sure to get atleast a 3.73 axle ratio, if not a 4.10, for towing.

 

[SteveVB]

Well, I would buy the 94 since its a 1st generation and has the TTB front rather than the torsion front. But really it doesnt matter unless you want to lift it for more than 33" tires. Light off road with 32" tires or less both will serve you well no problem. The 95 styling is a bit more up to date. If you want a first generation and a 2 door the Navajo is the way to go- much nicer grill IMHO, and they came with much more equipment standard than a comparable 2 dr Explorer.

Do a search on buying a 91, 92 93 94 or 95 and see what comes up, Im sure ytou will find plenty.

The trans - the Auto trans is the most complained about part no doubt- but after that there is little to complain about- axles f &R are excellent. The engine is excellent- I dont know what the design being from Germany has to do with anything, I dont understand the comment? Engine is proven, and other than an occasional loose intake no problems. The vehicle is a real truck at heart-body on frame construction no unibody to worry about the structure with as they age.

You are buying a used vehicle though so have it carefully checked out. Engine trans axles cooling brake systems. A vehicle thats 7-8 years old is going to have 100-120k miles on it and things wear out.

If I were looking I would look for a few things- the highest numerical axle ratio you can find. Search the site the codes are on the door. 3.73s for the early models if you can find one. 4.10s onthe later models

Super cooling on auto vehicle - larger aux cooler in front of the radiator for the trans.

Othe rthan those two things just general mechanical condition.

check the 4WD - depending on the use the auto hubs may need replacement, and the electric TC motors should be looked at.(if you can find a rare manual transfer case I would get it )

The radiators at the tanks- its a composite plastic aluminum rad, and they leak after a while - just like my chevy composite rad- not a vehicle specific problem, just composite rad in general.

Engine, check the intake manifold at the rear, compare the #5 plug with the rest its usually a good indicator for intake leaks.

Brakes - rotors and slide pins are areas to look at. With the age of the truck it will be on its 2nd or maybe 3rd brake job, so look at the hoses rotors and caliper slidepins.

trans check maint records for fluid changes, and the presence of a trans cooler(good), whether the vehicle towed(not so good).

Suspension- the rear drivers springs tend to sag since the gas tank is on the same side as the driver. Not a bad thing unless its excessive.

Interior- the armrest

All off the top of my head, a search of the site and some browsing will get you more info that you will know what to do with.

Good Luck and have fun

 

[Tom Coles]

Steve,

The comment about the German V6 came from my mechanic. I'm not that worried about it I just thought it was interesting that he mentioned it. He was quite firm that I should look for a 94 or newer due to the A/C coolant. Anything older and I will have to re-furbish to system to get it up to todays standards when it fails (at least here in Canada).

Tom

 

[Crankcase]

You don't have Aircare tests out in Chilliwack do you? If so, that would be one thing to check on, if it passes well.

A/C coolant is only for A/C. You could find an older Explorer that has been retrofitted to R134, and it would be the same as a 94-newer one.

 

[Tom Coles]

CrankCase,

Oh ya, we got Aircare. Since I only live about an from you tell me what you think about the prices in the Lower Mainland. I came across a 94 XLT, looks in good shape. They are changing the front hubs to manual today and it has 260K (!!) on it, mainly highway kilometers...asking $8995 (CDN). Tranny was done in the last 13 months or so.

I figure if it a 94 I won't have to retro-fit the A/C. Just one less bill to pay.

Tom

 

[toad]

Hey Tom Im not sure about out there but $8995 would be on the high end for sure here, especially with 260 klicks on it. On the good side my 92 has 235,000 on it an still runs great ,passed emmissions fine, except for the usual wear and tear issues. Remember theres bad ones in every bunch so look carefully. Good luck.

 

[RoadEnforcer]

Why buy an explorer you mean? haha I am just playing dude I am the last one who can talk crap abotu anyone's english skills.

 

[taxx]

why buy one? Just browse around here.

Yes the 94 is cheaper and easier to mod, but the parts are availible for the 95+ also. I have never had any tranny problems (knock on wood). Drive train works good and about ready to hit 100K and no problems with engine. The advantage of the newer generation is you can get the other V-6 the SOHC with 205 hp.

I love my explorer and only get frustrated at the lack of aftermarket products, but I guess that is what makes it fun having to engineer your own.

However from a stock perspective I have family members with them and work owns a couple and they work out great with loads of room, great in the winter and run good.

 

[YW84U]

Chilliwack?

I live there also. I own a 91XLT with about 260,000 km on it and have had it for about two years now. Great truck for around town, and performs excellent in Chilliwack River Valley, Tamihi and all of our other local spots.

I admit, there's things that need to be done to keep them running right; luckily, I can do most of the work myself and save mechanics fees. I've kept a complete list of everything changed/reparied on the vehicle since it's birth, and I'd be more than happy to share it with you - it might give you a better idea of some of the high-milage items. Don't worry about AirCare, haven't flunked yet!!

If you like, PM me and we can get together at some point - I'll assist you with as much info as I can!

 

[Stephen]

Personally, I would go for the OHV because of the problems I've heard of with the 97 SOHCs, although mine has been pretty good. With all the problems I've been having, I'm sure they will be along pretty soon.

Here's what I can remember of my service history.

-Radio rear control unit, $400.....twice
-Transmission at 70k...$2500 (pretty high)
-Brakes and rotors...more times than I can remember.
-Since you'll be using it in the city, definately spring for slotted brake rotors. My son drives our Explorer in DC all the time, and brakes go every 15k....WITH the slotted rotors.
-Ball joints-$600
-Front hub problem, dont remember the cost
-Heater core- $1100
-Check Engine light, misc. sensors- $400
-A/C Compressor- $800

The last 5 have been since March. I'm sitting at 112K.

If you buy a truck over 100K there are several things you'll want to have been done
-It should have a rebuilt transmission, if it doesnt, it will soon and you'll pay for it
-Ball Joints, make sure there is no unusual popping or shimmying when you drive the truck, especially when turning.
-A/C, make sure it blows good and cold, if it doesnt the compressor may have rotted out.
As always have it checked out by a trusted mechanic before you buy it, one of your choosing. If the seller refuses then he is hiding something, move on.

Good luck!

 

[taxx]

I haven't had any problems with the SOHC. Minor things like brakes and my A/C went out last summer. But the engine is in top condition.

 

[Jason_25]

Originally posted by Stephen

-Heater core- $1100

1100? Seriously? Looks like a 15 minute job?

 

[1991XLT]

tranny problems? I guess I never knew about that one.. My mother has a 1992 eddie Bauer .. she has had it for around 3-4 years now and it has around 165,000 miles on it.. and it has never shown a sign of any future tranny problems... I have a 1991 XLT I have owned it for about 6 months now and the engine and tranny are running strong in it.. mine has 123,000 miles on it.. so when do the trannies die in them? and what are the signs that they give when they are going on there way out? or dont they give you the signs that the Ford Taurus does when there junky tranny is going out?

 

[Tom Coles]

First of all, thanks to all who have posted. The knowledge shared has been most helpful.

I guess the tranny issue is a real crap shoot. It seems some have had the troubles and some have had one that works!

It's interesting to note how many of you out there have Exp's with high mileage. I remember as a kid my dad would take a car to about 60k (miles) and then 'it was time to get rid of it cause it would be way to hard to sell any car with more then 60k on it'!! Gee do you think its the $49,000 (CDN) for the top 2002 Explorer that might be factor why its best to keep vehicles way past that magic 60k marker.

Just some random thoughts ...

Tom

 

[taxx]

Yeah I remember My dad would get rid of them at about 50 to 60 K also. Kind of funny to think about. WHo bought them with those high miles?!

 

[Tom Coles]

Dave,

I guess it was those that couldn't afford the $3-4000 (CDN) new price tag!! I'm talking about the late 60's.

Tom