Will not start, cranks but will not run. | Ford Explorer Forums

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Will not start, cranks but will not run.

aeromech

New Member
Joined
January 2, 2005
Messages
3
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0
City, State
Minneapolis, MN
Year, Model & Trim Level
2001 XLT
Went to go start my Explorer (2001 XLT 5.0l V8) and the engine cranks but will not run. Ran it earlier and had no problems. Checked the fuel shutoff button and it was not popped. Outside temp is about 26 degrees F. Checked and made sure that it has spark. Not sure if the fuel pump is running. How do I tell without cracking the line.
 



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You should be able to hear it run when you turn the key to the on position.
 






If you don't hear the fuel pump run, consider replacing the fuel pump relay.
 






before you spend miney on anything... spray starting fluid down the throttle body while you stand t othe side and have someone crank the engine... if it runs, for a few seconds, or as long as you are spraying, its a fuel deprivation problem
 






Be careful , dont drench it in starting fluid though. LOL!
 






Still stuck and won't start

Well, I was able to call the Ford dealership and talked to their service people. Turns out while trying to start the theft light was blinking like crazy. They told me that this is the anti-theft system acting up and won't let it start. The only fix for this is to have the vehicle towed in and the anti-theft system reset for $75. Am I getting hosed here or what?
 






Am I the only one that comes to this site that is opposed to using starting fluid???
 






Problem solved

Had the vehicle towed in to the Ford dealership and they found the Powertrain Control Module to be bad. I'm not sure how this ties in with the anti-theft system but it does. They replaced the unit along with a 25 amp fuse and did it all under the 8 year powertrain warranty that I didn't even know I had. So in the end I didn't pay anything for this and the warranty even covered the towing. The only bad news about this is that this is not a common part to get and it took 3 days to have it shipped in. Thanks for all the advice from those who responded.
 






This seems like a good place to post. I am in alaska, my 95' limited died a while ago, 300 miles from home. Stopped at a construction flagger and shut the engine down, when I went to start it, it only cranked over, seeming not to even try to start. At 0 degrees with 2 kids and the wife I changed the plugs that I always carry becuase the passenger rear plug fowls out often, (another story for another day), checked spark, ok, and air filter ok. Got spark and air, went to start, no fuel pump sound. So someone picked us up and gave us a lift 300 miles home to Valdez. Had the rig towed to a buddys house in Palmer about 60 miles from Anchorage. I went back a month later and hit the fuel tank with a hammer hoping there was a flat spot in the electrical and the vibration would get it past it just to get going to bring home and work on, NO GO.
Anyway, my question is if I have one wire with constant power and two wires with grounds, (these are sure things, I tested them my self) does this indicate the fuel pump for sure?????? See money is tight and I could do the work myself but it is 300 miles 0 degrees outside and the tank is full, pretty miserable. So Ford says they will install for $190.00, but their pump is like 250.00 bucks and the guy at Nye Ford was a jerk and to top it off he said he would insist on charging me the 80 to 100 dollar diagnoses before doing the work, even though I have done a pressure test and electrical test then told him the results. I know this guy is not going to diagnose any thing after me telling him the results, maybe his tech will insert a volt meter in the plug for 2 seconds while pulling the tank and then charge me 100 dollars.

I would like to know if there is no fuel pressure, no pump sound, no start, and power at the relay and power and ground at the pump plug if this is a sure thing pump failure, so I can buy a pump from Napa for half the price and talk to the Supervisor a Ford to put a Kupposh on this stupid diagnoses charge, without looking dumb later and bring my price from $600.00 to a more reasonable $300 to $350.
 






Did you try swapping the relay under the hood to make sure it is not just a bad relay? Also, did you check the fuel pump cutoff switch? Sometimes that'll pop for no reason and you have to reset.
 






that let come on it my moms car all we did us unplug athe battery and it strated right up
 






Fuel pump Diagnoses

Yes I checked the inertia switch and swapped relays under the hood.
I talked Ford into not charging me the diagnoses, and I was right :thumbsup: . The pump was bad, but even after the Napa pump and no diag. charge the bill is still $458.00. I think the parts department charged me the full Ford pump price.
Any way, it is fixed, and I will deal with the charge when I pick it up tomorrow.
Thanks for the help. :)
 






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