Wont go in 4X4 - White box with button?

[Tim Nelson]

I suddenly developed a no shift problem with my 92' 5 speed. I noticed several mentions of a white 4X4 controller in the rear of the truck? Maybe it will help my problem. Checked fuses and connectors already and have no other electrical trouble. I would like to know more about the white box before I fork out more cash.

 

[Kris Guilbeaux]

Do you here clicks from the back of the car when you push the button?

 

[Tim Nelson]

White box

Where is the box with this magic button??

 

[mmcgovern919]

Kris was asking about when you push the 4x4 button on the dash.
One of the 4x4 problem symptoms is hearing clicks coming from the jack storage box when you push the 4x4 button on your dash.
The control box is in the storage box with the jack. The box is forward of the jack directly over the rear wheel well and is black. There is a white button on the bottom and has two (gray?) connections on the upper left side. The test consists of unplugging the two connections on the upper left side of the control box (not easy, but do-able) and pushing the white button. I don't recall if you have to have the key in the "Acc" position or not, you might try both ways. If you get a solid red light, the problem is with the control board. If you get a flashing light, the problem is your transfer case motor (under the Explorer).
If the test results in a flashing light (thus, a T-case motor problem) there are some good solutions to this if you search under "transfer case" and "4x4". The main extent of the repair work is cleaning and doesn't cost very much at all.
I don't have any experience with the result being steady. I would assume you need to replace the control board.
Another problem people have been having is with their automatic hubs not engaging. This could also cause your problem. If you want to investigate those, just crawl under the car and find the front drivetrain. It will run from the transfer case (in the middle of the truck between the front and rear doors) to the front dif. You should be able to turn it with your bare hands. (You can turn it either way. One will be the right way and one will be the wrong way. The wrong way won't hurt anything) If you turn it the right way and your hubs work correctly, they will engage and you won't be able to turn the drivetrain any more. (If the front wheels were off the ground, the wheels would turn just by you turning the drivetrain) If you turn it both ways and the hubs don't engage (meaning you can turn it freely for several revolutions) then your hubs may be the problem.
Hope that helps.

 

[Tim Nelson]

Found the 4x4 controller

I did as sugested and removed the two connectors on the left and with the key in the on position pused the white button. I got 4 distinct flashes. I assume this is the actuator motor or solenoid. Is this correct
I am really gratefull for mmcgovern and kris's help. I will look for the solutions in the message board. I was going to test the switch and other electrical stuff thanks again for saving me the time! I have to go finish doing my brakes now. New Arts rotors and pads for the front and a master cylinder rebuild for the rear, argh!

 

[mmcgovern919]

T-case

Tim,
It sounds like it's the actuator motor to me. In case you don't find the link by searching, Dead Link Removed, here it is. Just scroll down and check out Transfer Case. This site also has info on brakes and auto hubs. There are other threads out there, but this one helped me the most.

 

[Tim Nelson]

I know what I'm dojng tonight!

Once again many thanks! I will be doing the procedure tonight and post the results tomorrow.

 

[BExplorer]

Motor...

It seem to be a culprit activated by snow (LOL), I had this problem in the begining of winter. I had to dismantle the motor twice to get it right. After cleaning the motor it worked when it was free and not on the case. My probleme was not the motor itself but the sensor(positioning) disc, it had unstuck from the shaft. It is inside the grey plastic thing on motor, so if cleaning does not do the trick, try opening the positioning sensor to see if it is still in place and if it is in the right position.

 

[mmcgovern919]

BExplorer,
Not to get off the subject, but I am currently working on the same problem and have a question for you. You are talking about the position sensor that is in the round gray plastic end of the motor, right? I tried to check that, but mine looks like it's all one piece. How did you get yours open? I assume you can pry it apart, but I don't even see a seam on mine.
I've cleaned the motor and it still doesn't work. I'm looking for some more cleaning I can do before I have to start shelling out money to get it fixed.
Any help would be great.

 

[Tim Nelson]

Motor fix

I just took mine apart night before last and it works great!!!! Big time thanks to everyone and this website!!! Now for the last question posted. My motor did not look like the one shown in the transfer case section of the board. I suspect it looks just like the one you are asking about. I removed the three security torx heads and found that the sensor plate does not come off the cap. The big round gear does not come out so forget about needing any rubber tubing. It appears that Ford fixed the problem with that part of the motor. I removed the two long bolts and spereated the cap from the motor sleve with a screwdriver. I then reached in and pulled the spinning thing with the copper wire out leaving the magnets and springs inside the unit so they would not fly away. After that I cleaned all the copper contacts, magnets and sensor plate with 600 grit sandpaper and alcohol. I wiped the thing down and used the rubber band trick to hold the magnets down & slid the thing back together with some RTV to keep the water out and it works perfect. Don't forget to cut off the rubber bands!

 

[Gigantor]

Phew..

Thanks guys for this thread. I was just sayin the other day that i have faint memories of this 'box' and how to check it but im glad that it was brought up and i didnt have to do all the searching... too bad its snowing as i type this... maybe I'll get to doign this 'test' this weekend. As of right now i have almsot 3 inches of snow, and last saturday i got stuck in 2-3 inches. But there was some ice involved in that BUT it was flat ground. Lets hope for ONCE the snow will stop and i dont need $X$ i mean 4x4 on my way to boston tomorrow.
have a great day everyone
<><

 

[BExplorer]

Sensor...

mmcgovern919, look on the back side, the one with the thing that fits into the gear. That part need to be poped out, the seem into witch you can put your screwdriver his very tin. On mine I had to cut out the seem that retained the sensor in place because I couldn't put it back in(the seem overlaps the sensor). I just glued back the withe disc in place(look for the old glue patern to put it back in the right position) and then glued the two grey parts together, just be sure you mark the two parts before getting them appart. If you want to image this procedure go to Dr Bob page Dead Link Removed and look at Alfredo contribution. Hope this help you

 

[mmcgovern919]

Thanks for the info! Sorry for the slow response....haven't been able to log on for a few days. I will try the fix tomorrow!

 

[Gigantor]

I need to know how long its gonna take to take down my motor for cleaning/servicing. I tested the control box in the back and it gave me the flashing lights so that tehn tells me that i need to deal with the motor, however if this is going to take a while I have a MAJOR problem. The snow prediction is CRAZY for monday, they are predicting anywhere from 24" up too 36"+ and thats not nice if you dont have 4x4, even with 4x4 thats not too nice. Anyway im gonna go to Dr Bobs site and do some reading, thanks guys)>
Have a great day,
<><

 

[Tim Nelson]

motor fix

The motor fix took 1.5 hours and I am no mechanic. I would recomend removing the Dampener as it will be easier to reinstall the motor. It is a really easy fix. do go and buy a cheap set of security torx heads as it will be alot easier to take the cover off the motor. also get some small diameter rubber bands to hold the magnets and springs down during reinstall.