Curtis
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- November 15, 2001
- Messages
- 1,685
- Reaction score
- 11
- City, State
- Orlando, FL
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 04 XLT 4x4
Almost at exactly 150,000k, my odometer and trip counter stopped working.
I could hear a clicking noise in the dash.
Did some research on the board, and it turns out the worm gears tend to break.
Its near impossible to find just the gear, and when you do can be more than $40!
And I didn't want a new cluster because I wanted to retain as close to my original mileage as possible.
So while going through the junk yard a few weeks ago, I found a cluster that someone had removed already. I pulled the center section with the speedo in it and got it for $6.00
When I got home I took it apart and could see the worm gear was intact.
I removed my cluster (it wasnt hard)
On the kitchen table...here is what I did.
1 - I took the lens off and removed the gauges on the right (oil pressure and voltage).
This section will just pull straight out with no screws once the lens is removed.
Now you should be able to see the in though the side and check out the worm gear. Its probably broken.
2 - I removed the odometer motor from the junk yard unit
On each side of the motor here you can see the clear plastic clip that holds it in. The motor has tabs on it that when you twist it, go under the plastic tabs. So to get the motor out, you have to push down on it and twist to get it out.
3 - Now comes the more difficult part.
Turn your original cluster over and you'll see its covered in a circuit board.
the bulbs have to come out to be able to lift the circuit board.
I didn't want to take it all off, so I removed the following pieces only and was able to gently fold back the flexible board to see the back of the odometer.
Bulbs just twist out.
The hardest pieces to get out were the connections to which the oil pressure and voltage gauges push into. But they are just springy, using needle nose pliers I was able to squeeze them on the front and pull them out of the back, then the circuit board could be lifted.
4 - Once the circuit board is lifted and gently folded back you should be able to see the existing motor through a round hole.
From the front side, disconnect the wiring of the motor.
now on the back side, push and twist to unlock the existing motor. It should come out. Turn the unit over and the remnants of the worm gear will fall out.
Once you get it out, you have this
6 - Reverse the procedure to put the new motor with good worm gear back in. it took me some time to get it to go in with the gear lined up enough so that I could lock it in place.
7 - On the front connect the wiring for the motor
8 - re-install the bulbs, push in and twist.
also the gauge connections, they just push straight in.
9 - push the oil pressure and voltage gauge set back into the front.
10 - assemble the lens and gauges and re-install in the truck.
Works perfectly!
I could hear a clicking noise in the dash.
Did some research on the board, and it turns out the worm gears tend to break.
Its near impossible to find just the gear, and when you do can be more than $40!
And I didn't want a new cluster because I wanted to retain as close to my original mileage as possible.
So while going through the junk yard a few weeks ago, I found a cluster that someone had removed already. I pulled the center section with the speedo in it and got it for $6.00
When I got home I took it apart and could see the worm gear was intact.
I removed my cluster (it wasnt hard)
On the kitchen table...here is what I did.
1 - I took the lens off and removed the gauges on the right (oil pressure and voltage).
This section will just pull straight out with no screws once the lens is removed.
Now you should be able to see the in though the side and check out the worm gear. Its probably broken.
2 - I removed the odometer motor from the junk yard unit
On each side of the motor here you can see the clear plastic clip that holds it in. The motor has tabs on it that when you twist it, go under the plastic tabs. So to get the motor out, you have to push down on it and twist to get it out.
3 - Now comes the more difficult part.
Turn your original cluster over and you'll see its covered in a circuit board.
the bulbs have to come out to be able to lift the circuit board.
I didn't want to take it all off, so I removed the following pieces only and was able to gently fold back the flexible board to see the back of the odometer.
Bulbs just twist out.
The hardest pieces to get out were the connections to which the oil pressure and voltage gauges push into. But they are just springy, using needle nose pliers I was able to squeeze them on the front and pull them out of the back, then the circuit board could be lifted.
4 - Once the circuit board is lifted and gently folded back you should be able to see the existing motor through a round hole.
From the front side, disconnect the wiring of the motor.
now on the back side, push and twist to unlock the existing motor. It should come out. Turn the unit over and the remnants of the worm gear will fall out.
Once you get it out, you have this
6 - Reverse the procedure to put the new motor with good worm gear back in. it took me some time to get it to go in with the gear lined up enough so that I could lock it in place.
7 - On the front connect the wiring for the motor
8 - re-install the bulbs, push in and twist.
also the gauge connections, they just push straight in.
9 - push the oil pressure and voltage gauge set back into the front.
10 - assemble the lens and gauges and re-install in the truck.
Works perfectly!