Turbo on 2000 Limited 5.0

Well guys, I don't even have it yet and I'm looking at going turbo.

I think I'll be going STS style with the turbo underneath the the body. I'm hoping I can find room somewhere closer to the front to mount it. If not, I may just go classic style and cut the muffler out and install the turbo in its place.

Tim was kind enough to point me at a turbo for sale locally. I'm checking it out now. I sent the specs to James Henson to see what his thoughts are.

Here's the specs:
t4 F1-68 turbine .68 a/r housing 3" exhaust outlet with a 72mm compressor blade 4inch inlet, 2.5 inch outlet, journal bearing. Also, see compressor map attached. I have a vague understanding, and that concerns me.

Now, the next issue is oil routing.
Oil in to the turbo would be handled from a T off the oil pressure sending unit on the block. Return oil would need a scavenge pump to the top of the oil pan, or in the timing chain cover. The scavenge pump adds quite a bit of cost to the setup. I think saving a few bucks in this area would spell disaster. So, this seems to be the best pump out there:
http://turbowerx.com/Scavenge_Pumps/Exa-Pump/Exa-Pump.html
Stainless steel oil lines will have to be used. As I read about under cab mounted turbo's oil issues seem to be a huge issue. This is going to require careful thought and routing.

My real issue is routing the air filter and compressed air up to the engine bay.
The frame rails will be the the way. I saw one guy notched out his frame for the plumbing and re-enforced the frame by welding metal around the plumbing line (3 inch or 4 inch hole). I'm concerned about running the two pipes and think this will be the biggest challenge. I really don't want that air filter under the truck.
See what this guy did on his ranger?


As for Maf? Pro-M all the way, in a blow thru design.

Fuel pump, injectors, sct go without saying. I'll be having James put together a care package for me along with the Pro-M.
Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump
Bosch uscar (EV6) 60lb injectors part # 108191

I'll recycle my boost gauge and wide band o2 from my supercharged 4.0 ohv.

I'll be using stainless steel for everything under the truck as rust always seems to be an issue.

Also. intercooling. I learned from my last project that cool intake air is incredibly important. People say on under cabin turbo's you don't really need it as the compressed air cools on the way up. Not good enough for me. Im going to go air/water so I have flexibility as to where I mount the intercooler. This could change, but intercooling of some form is a must.

My eye's are watering at what this is going to cost.

I see 02Limited turbo'd his, but he must have had quite a few issues and fell off the forum.

Not much info on guys completing something like this to be found. All input appreciated.

This will be a long process.

 

[rs2k]

Excellent thread! I'm seriously considering doing this to my 98 Eddie Bauer 5.0. I'll keep watching this thread until I make the plunge.

 

[rs2k]

If you're already using 2 inch piping for the turbo to intake (at least until you get to 3 inches) then why not run the intake tube on the other side of the vehicle. You can go across the top radiator hose, make a curve around the engine and down at an angle from there to the bottom of the vehicle. Avoid the passenger side mess all together.

 

[Jakee]

That pump is one of the best. I'm pretty sure they tapped that hole BEFORE the pump was put together. I'm curious as to where the shaving came from. Were you able to pick that pc of metal out?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

now seeing that pic don, it makes sense.

 

[Dono]

Jakee, it was very easy to pull the pump gears and clean up the thread bits that were left behind with a dremmel. I just feel better having those shavings cleaned out of there.

Routing the intake piping on the otherwise of the truck doesn't look any easier to me.
I'm going to attempt to "shorten" my wiper fluid/overflow tanks so they dont stick out so far In to the engine bay. I'm interested to see how this turns out, and if it will be leak free. This is where the intake pipe will come up, and it looks like there will be easily enough room, as 2" pipe is really tiny. Once in the engine bay ill transition to 2 1/2" for bov, then 3" to the throttle body.

The mount for the intercooler will be a bit of a challenge under the truck. Tim has already volunteered to help get a bracket sorted out. Thanks Tim!

 

[Turdle]

How about "retrofitting" smaller overflow and wiper fluid tanks from another vehicle? I had to do this with the Turdle. They should be easy to grab from a junk yard.

 

[Dono]

I checked with James on what he used on his turbo sohc, and he used some from a Lincoln. I was at the yard last week and couldn't find anything that might even come close to fitting. There's a lot of really weirdly shaped reservoirs out there. I'd never have guessed that. So, in the end I pulled the reservoirs out of a dead gen 2, in hopes of modifying.
I could try other yards. Lincolns are not common around here at all. James was guessing a mark8, but couldn't be sure.

 

[rs2k]

You could always build you're own tanks using PVC pipe arranged vertically and placed elsewhere.

 

[Jakee]

Try and use as many of the ribbed ends as you can. I have one joint meeting at the 2" to 2.5" transition where I did not use the ribbed ends because of the way I was forced to cut the pipe. Guess where the ends blow off? Yea, right there..LOL

 

[Dono]

And....Most of my piping showing up has no beads. #$^#$$!!
I can see this could very well be an issue. Im not in a hurry to be popping intercooler pipes all over the place.

so, looking on line, they are really expensive.
here's an option:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/324132-homemade-intercooler-pipe-bead-tool.html

I was kind of hoping to find one on ebay someone was done with.

Here's an Epoxy method. I think it will be what I use:
Clean up the end of the pipe, no oil or paint at all. Rough it up a little with at least 80 grit sand paper, rougher (36 grit) is OK too. Mask off a stripe of exposed pipe. Run a bead of thick epoxy around the pipe. While the epoxy is still a little wet, pull off the tape. This will leave a bead of epoxy around the pipe end that will help keep the hose from blowing off.

 

[rs2k]

Very clever tool. I don't see what that wouldn't work. Seems like a good idea to me if you have a welder or have access to someone who can weld the tool for you.

 

[jd4242]

And....Most of my piping showing up has no beads. #$^#$$!!
I can see this could very well be an issue. Im not in a hurry to be popping intercooler pipes all over the place.

so, looking on line, they are really expensive.
here's an option:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/324132-homemade-intercooler-pipe-bead-tool.html

I was kind of hoping to find one on ebay someone was done with.

Here's an Epoxy method. I think it will be what I use:
Clean up the end of the pipe, no oil or paint at all. Rough it up a little with at least 80 grit sand paper, rougher (36 grit) is OK too. Mask off a stripe of exposed pipe. Run a bead of thick epoxy around the pipe. While the epoxy is still a little wet, pull off the tape. This will leave a bead of epoxy around the pipe end that will help keep the hose from blowing off.

Saw that vise grip one over on rps the other day.I don't know if I trust the epoxy way with all the heat and vibration

 

[Dono]

see what this guy did?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVDUM2ZxoW0
If I could just find a heavy duty wire crimper like the one he used....

 

[jd4242]

see what this guy did?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JVDUM2ZxoW0
If I could just find a heavy duty wire crimper like the one he used....

Lol thats pretty slick

 

[Dono]

parts are slowly coming in, and Im slowly doing stuff.

Im getting my live wire sorted out for my pumps and boost gauge.

Not sure who's been intimate with the fuel pump live wire, but where does it run?

Ive been looking for it at the drivers kick panel.

Its a Dark Green w Yellow trace wire (I think) and I would have thought it would run down the drivers kick panel and along the drivers side of the truck.
Its missing in action.

What I'd like to do is run the relay off this wire and then out for the pumps (intercooler and oil scavenge). There is lots of room at the kick panel for the relay and it would be protected very well.

Anyone know where, and what color that wire is inside the cab of the truck?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

don, i have a ford shop cd for 97-00. if you want to burn it, i can bring it by on sat or sunday (i want to go for a drive anyway). that and i still have the chopped elbow, and jig here

 

[Dono]

Thanks Tim, I'll take you up on that.
Timings tough this weekend though.

Were bartending both nights, and there's our something football game on Saturday at 1:00. Sunday afternoon maybe? I'm not great with mornings after bartending the night before. Must be this age thing.

I was just thinking.....If the pump emergency shut off is on the passenger side,what am I doing looking on the drivers side?

 

[2000StreetRod]

fuel pump live wire routing

Here's the path (DG/YE wire) on my 2000 which should be similar:
fuel pump relay in battery junction box >
Splice S127 >
C147 > C203 > inertia fuel shutoff > C212 > C141 > C311 > fuel pump assy
C115 > C202 > PCM (monitors fuel pump relay output)

If you want your pumps to stop running when the inertia fuel shutoff is activated then you need to tap in past it. If you don't care then you can tap in before it. The wire is accessible in the bundle at the battery junction box.

Otherwise you'll have to find it at C203 that connects to the inertia fuel shutoff (passenger side kick panel) or C212 (under and behind the instrument panel on driver side).

I plan to tap in at the battery junction box like I did for my remote crank capability.

 

[delexploder]

Not sure if this helps but I saved these pics of a saleen setup for future reference

 

[Dono]

Thanks Guys!

Dale, I looked at that junction box, and couldn't see how to get at that DarkGreen/Yellow wire.
Is there space to see that wire if I unbolt the box and lift it up?