supercharged 5.0 true fire 98 explorer sport

vroomzoomboom · January 19, 2012

gmanpaint said:
Just for grins....Would you have a look at your engine mounts, and see if they are straight? If they are off even a 1/4" from side to side (meaning the engine is not set straight), that would add up to a lot by the time the axis line gets to the tail shaft on the t-case. Most likely my crazy imagination at a late hour, but it don't hurt to look.

I know exactly what your talking about with the GM style mounts, I have installed many in my day. I like Fords style better myself. It stabilizes the rear of the trans more I think. Just my 02.

you have a good point, but everything lined up, and dropped in no problems. i didn't have to force anything, and when i go to put the cross member in, it lines up with both the holes from the mount, and the ones in the frame.

gmanpaint · January 19, 2012

Well, heck, you can just make one with stronger square tube and 1/4" plates on the sides to bolt to the frame rails, and make it however high/low you want, and add a plate to the tube for the mount.

vroomzoomboom · January 19, 2012

gmanpaint said:

this has been gnawing at me all day at work, after gregg posted his opinion on this, but got me to thinking about something else. i have noticed what feels like a drag when you let off the gas. i wonder if they way things are angled, even tho the u joints dont bind when its off, if thats the reason for it.

gmanpaint · January 19, 2012

I'm sure that's the 4406 your feeling.

Does it feel like it is dragging in O/D?

vroomzoomboom · January 19, 2012

any forward gear, even reverse.

CDW6212R · January 19, 2012

The angles of all of the shafts just need to be parallel. Each end of any drive shaft must be as nearly perfectly parallel as possible. That creates equal angles(pinion angles) at each u-joint, which balances the potential vibrations from each end.

I'd loosen the engine mounts, and attempt to move the engine to the side that has the rear shaft over so far. Ideally you want it all centered, but pointed straight back is the next best choice.

I commented about the trans mount in your other thread. Modifying the cross member would be the best idea. Lower the mounting surface enough to match the common Energy Suspension mount. Those are easy to buy and likely the best urethane mount. I'd cut the stock mount down enough with a new top steel plate in place, and add side pieces(front/back) to keep it all strong.

vroomzoomboom · January 19, 2012

CDW6212R said:
I'd loosen the engine mounts, and attempt to move the engine to the side that has the rear shaft over so far. Ideally you want it all centered, but pointed straight back is the next best choice.

this also just popped into my head. before i start messing with motor mounts, i should look and see if the fan is sitting strait in the fan shroud. if you think of it, if its off center, that would tell you so is the motor. i know you guys think it is (not ranting, not getting upset when i say that, so please dont think it), but as mentioned before everything fell into place. you would have to think, if it was out, i would have to force it into place. i know when i put the 4406 in, and the drive shaft yoke in the case, it looked too close, but when i go into the thread i used, and talked to jon, it sounded like it was on the money.

Kris Guilbeaux · January 19, 2012

I see no issues with the angles in the photo... it looks more extream due to the u joints being closer together.

Turdle · January 19, 2012

Kris Guilbeaux said:
I see no issues with the angles in the photo... it looks more extream due to the u joints being closer together.

Agreed, annnnnd, it even looks like your rear driveshaft could be another 2 inches or so longer, which, would decrease the angle a tad. ( I see the old seal wear ring, about 2" or so from where the seal is riding --closer to the u joint flange)

Someone else needs to chime in here for an expert opinion.

vroomzoomboom · January 20, 2012

Turdle said:
Agreed, annnnnd, it even looks like your rear driveshaft could be another 2 inches or so longer, which, would decrease the angle a tad. ( I see the old seal wear ring, about 2" or so from where the seal is riding --closer to the u joint flange)

thats with the suspension at full drop however. i also asked them to move it back (or shorten it) by a 1/4 inch so it wouldnt be riding in that groove, and cause a possible leak. but i do know, after i talked to you, i went and looked at it, and it was pretty much where you said it was. still scares me, lol, but if it worked for you, and everyone else that has done it, it should work for me. there are no vibrations at all, even in 4x4 (even when my leg had a uncontrollable twitch, which sent my right foot all the way to the floor, and held it there for a few seconds, even going into second gear, the sound of a v8 is soooooo nice...). however, if anyone has anything to add to the "drag feeling" it has when its off the gas, that i would also like some input. i would like to think gregg is correct on the feel of a 4406, but to me it almost feels like a caliper is dragging, even tho the tires do spin freely when its up on the lift.

corkey · January 20, 2012

k, if you think it's a caliper drag, that is an easy check, drive along and allow the vehicle to slow on it's own, like bump it out of gear, coast to a stop, get out check calipers for heat by hand,,
if one is hot that is it,,

vroomzoomboom · January 20, 2012

corkey said:
k, if you think it's a caliper drag, that is an easy check, drive along and allow the vehicle to slow on it's own, like bump it out of gear, coast to a stop, get out check calipers for heat by hand,,
if one is hot that is it,,

No no no. It "feels like". I know that's not the problem because all the wheels spin freely on the lift.

vroomzoomboom · January 24, 2012

little more of a update for everyone. i have a mustang poly mount on order, should be here friday. what i will do is cut the top of the stock cross member off, and weld a 1/4 plate on top of it, drill two holes and have a poly mount. i have a p0133 code (02 sensor), so i will be getting one of those in the next bit as well as it has a slight miss to it. have fixed my tach problem. what i had to do its this.

i have seen a few threads where they say, remove the black/yellow wire in pin 8 on the 10 pin connector, and move it to pin 16, in the 16 pin connector behind the cluster. well, for what ever reason, pin 16 was occupied with a black/white wire. nobody never mentioned that. after searching and searching, and asking ANYONE and EVERYBODY, all i had to do was unplug the black/white wire from pin 16, and replace it with the black/yellow wire. now it is reading correctly.
as for the drag problem, either it has loosened up, or was in my mind. i took my buddy for i ride in it (the guy who let me use his garage) and he couldn't feel it. he did however couldn't believe how it went. for a chevy guy, he was pretty impressed. that's it for now. have put about 200-250 HARD DRIVEN kms on it, and all seems well!

and also last night took the donor truck for its last ride

394006_10150496566622513_699977512_9011987_1484811888_n.jpg

396196_10150496567297513_699977512_9011992_1898599769_n.jpg

blueka · January 24, 2012

you left a perfectly good back light on that Tim!!!

Si

vroomzoomboom · January 24, 2012

trust me, there wasnt much, if anything left that was good....or ok....

Joe Dirt · January 25, 2012

that sux bout your donor truck

vroomzoomboom · January 25, 2012

Honestly, there wasnt much left of it. One door and 1/4 glass left door panels, rear bumper and one running board. All the rest was either smashed, broken or I had used for the swap.

vroomzoomboom · January 28, 2012

tonight i did a little more stuff. i was warned that hanging that 4406 off the back of the trans will eat the mount in a matter of time. i now have about 300 kms on it, in the last 2 weeks that i have put the v8 in it, and noticed more and more a thump when it shifted gears (once again, those are not granny driven miles either, and it 4x4 because it just swings and spins even at the slightest amount of throttle in 2wd at the moment).
figured the mount was gone already.

i would say so!

i had got a mustang trans mount, just to see if it would fit, it would but would have to do some mods to the cross member. i then ordered a energy suspension poly mount for a 93 mustang 5L with a auto trans. where it bolts into the trans is the same, and thats where everything ends. it is a lot higher, and the bolt span going into the cross member is narrower.

grabbed the handy sawzall (cause i forgot my grinder at home) and went to town.

i think i cut about 1 1/4 out of the cross member, then put a 1/4 plate into the hole i cut. mounted it up, and tacked it into place then welded it off the truck (yes, i know its not the best cutting job, but hey, it got the job done!)
my buddy also gave me a neat little trick that i didnt know about. before i welded it, i marked where i had to drill it. well, that burnt away. he had a jar of never seize with a brush. he told me to brush some on the bottom of the mount, bolt it to the trans, put the cross member in, then lower the trans, mount and all onto it. worked great. paint will dry to fast to make a foot print with, and if you for what ever reason screw up, you can wipe this stuff off, and start again.

the bolts are a tad close to the front of the cross member, but i hope that wont matter. took it for a scream, no clunk or thud anymore when shifting. i can now cross that off the list!

gmanpaint · January 28, 2012

Now that's damn cool! :thumbsup:

Give us a report back on this, after you get some more time on that set up please.

vroomzoomboom · January 29, 2012

drove it tonight again to my buddys where i painted evil to change a O2 sensor that was giving me a p0133 code. was ready to buy a new one when i figured i would look on rockauto and see, just for poops and giggles if any were the same from SOHC to 5L, and surprise, not one but two are the same numbers! up stream on the passengers side is the same, as well as down stream (for the 5L). so once again, if anyone ever reads this and you are doing the swap, save your sensors if they are good! you can reuse them!!!!! with that said, i also noticed (going off the message center mind you) it picked up almost 5mpg (average that is)! will know more as i drive it.

as for vibration, at 80-85 kms a hour there was none, but once you start going faster then that, it appears. what i am going to do first however is pull the front shaft off, and see if it keeps doing it. i did notice when i put it on, i had one. without it, i didnt. will do that in the next few weeks. other then that, i have, what looks like, nailed all and any bugs at the moment.

*knocks on wood*

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