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Project Roadblock

mr1mrwun

Active Member
Joined
September 5, 2011
Messages
99
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City, State
New Jersey
Year, Model & Trim Level
'91 4dr XLT 4x4 5-speed
Let me first start off and warn everyone that this will more than likely be a bit long winded. I like to be thorough. Also, this is my first solo endeavor at an attempt at doing any thing, I would consider, this big. But half way through, in hindsight, it hasn't been as bad as I thought. Despite the complications.

Any and all insight and input is appreciated.


A couple of months ago bought my latest baby for $1000 off craigslist.
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'91 XLT 4x4 Manual. Black ext. Red int.

Told it has been sitting for 'x' amount of time and needs work. Engine had the typical ticking noise (bit louder than I've ever heard before). Smoked out the exhuast (greyish blue). Trans and clutch was good at that time. Ride was ok, but visually it needed shocks. Steering and brakes were good. No leaks that I could tell of immediately.

Time goes by, smoke gets worse. No CEL. Did some research. Basically, came up with two things. Bad heads or blown head gasket. After an aftermarket headunit install, learned the CEL and the anti-lock brake lights were unplugged. Yay!

Started pricing/researching what would be needed for both, and my clutch starts slipping. Awesome! Get replacement prices for my clutch. A week later, no pressure and won't engage gears while I'm out one day. Awesome x2!!!

Happened upon an engine on the EF classifieds in my area for $75, THANX RAY!!!! Cheaper than a head swap, thought I had my smoky engine problem solved with an easy swap. Wrong. Cleaned up the engine best I could without completely tearing it down. Get down to the last spark plug. SNAP!!! Breaks right at the beginning of the porcelain. Couple of days wasted, riding around in a borrowed car, looking for a drill and tap for my spark plug dilemma. Everywhere I went tried pushing the Ford 3-piece spark plug extractor tool, for the diesels I think (not sure). Idk, maybe I should've worded it differently. "I'm trying to get a broken off spark plug OUT." But eventually found what I needed at Pep Boys.

Ok, broken spark plug out. Time to take out the smoky engine. Make a call to get some :troops:. All I get is...........:mattmoon: to kiss. So I decide to put my big boy pants on and get it done myself.
Take off all the belt driven accessories, air intake, fan, and radiator. Disconnect all, well most the wiring. Disconnect all the plumbing. Unbolt the trans. Unbolt the engine mounts.
Got to the four bolts to the y-pipe. Wont budge. ANY OF 'EM!!!!!!! Torch and PB Blaster all of them. Repeatedly. Nothing. REPEATEDLY! So I say, 'why not take out the header bolts and stop stressing'. Torch and PB them ahead of time to save myself some disappointment. Get to the last one, lower bolt on cyl 3, with EVERYTHING in the way. Tried from the top and the wheel well. Wound up stripping the dumb thing! YAY! Go and get the Irwin bolt/nut extractor set. $YAY$!!! Get home, size it up, and the size I need is in the "expansion pack". $$YAY$$!!!!!!!!!! (Self hi-five for rushing and not paying attention!!!!) Get that, put it on, crank it, and it strips!! Awesomeness.

Stress and frustration set in and had a field day on my emotions. So I said 'F it' and took my sawzall to my y-pipe. So I had to order a new exhaust to the cat.

FINALLY pull my engine, and see a possible cause for my excessive smoking:
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OIL AND GUNK---IN my 6th cylinder exhaust!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thats the back story up to this point. Right now I'm in the middle of swapping the wiring harness to the engine I'm putting in my truck, while I'm waiting for my new y-pipe to get delivered. I'll let the rest of my pics speak for themselves.


Everything I removed to replace:
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Pics of the removed engine's exhaust and plugs:
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The transplant engine and the just removed is in the back.
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Got done with removing the engine wiring harness off the one I just took out my truck. Everything went relatively easy. I do have one issue I'd like some input on. Got down to the low oil sensor and found this.
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I know the wire and connector are still good because the sensor did it's job while it was still in the truck. My question is, would putting heat shrink on the connector and wire be enough to withstand the heat from the engine and the elements? Or would some reinforcements be necessary? Like some rubber tape then heat shrink or a couple layers of heat shrink?

Also the wiring harness off my 'transplant' engine is from a Ranger 4.0L. I don't know what year, but if anybody is interested in it, just let me know or pm me. I don't need it and it'll just add to the clutter in my garage.
 






Oh yeah, does anybody have any ideas on why cylinder 6 on my engine would be soaked with crud and oil? Don't plan on tearing into this engine until atleast better weather comes my way. Just would like some insight as to what the possible causes could be.
 






While waiting on my y-pipe to arrive today, I decided to un-box all my other new parts.

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Magnaflow Cats
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Would have a pic of the y-pipe but I'm too lazy right now. UPS decided to deliver it after I shut things down for the day.


Installed the master and slave cylinder, and the hydraulic line.
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Tomorrow after a store run for gaskets, spring bolts, exhaust hangers, and other little things, I plan on finishing up on the engine wiring harness.
Clean the sensors I can.
Change my battery terminals. Set up things for my 0 gauge big 3.
Hopefully swap the return fuel line from my FPR. (Tranplant engine has the screw-on type not the tube and clamp type my engine had, if I'm saying that right).
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Drop the engine in. Connect everything.
Give it fluids.
Drop in my new Optima.
Bleed the clutch.
HOPEFULLY, after priming the fuel system.......SHE WILL RUN!!!!!!! HOPEFULLY....that is if I don't run into any problems, like I'm usually prone to run into. Hence the naming of my thread........I always seem to hit a roadblock somewhere.
 






Looks like you are having lots of fun dude. Keep it up!
 






Looks like you are having lots of fun dude. Keep it up!

Hey thanks man!

Hoping I can get a major part of this done because its supposed to rain tonight. Just sucks I have to go back out for more parts because all the part stores in my area suck.
 






Sad Update

After half my day spent riding around looking for the last bit of parts i needed I finally got something done.

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I decided to just swap my original FPR. Swapping the line was too much of a PITA and taking up too much of my time.

So I got the engine all dressed up to go in my truck. Manage to drop it in. Happened to snap the connector for the low oil sensor in the process, but it'll be an easy fix since I've got a back up.

After a few hours of struggling with trying to get the engine and tranny to mate up, and rain smacking me in the face, I called it a night.

Bout to run to the store and buy a bottle jack and see if that helps me.
 






Great job, thanks for taking the time to take pictures.
 






I love new parts.
 












Wasted day today due to the rainy weather. Didn't get the bottle jack like I intended. Instead I used basic logic, I can use the jack from the truck, DUHH. So got some Wendy's instead (BACONATOR MMmmmm!!) Got back home pigged out, then did some rain dancing to change the weather. Didn't work.

But I been thinking. I need some suggestions regarding my issue with getting the tranny and engine mated up. Keep in mind, I'm doing all this completely by myself.

Tried:
Jacking the trans all the way up and tilting the engine downward to slide it in.
The engine leveler gets in the way. Can't push the engine further. Floor jack also in the way (Reason why I'm going to try again with the emergency jack)

Let the trans hang, kept the engine tilted. Lowered engine as close as possible. Crawled underneath. Pushed up the trans and pulled engine in by hand.
Surprisingly this gave me the best results. Got the shaft lined up and started. Engine came about an inch away from the trans. Bolt holes didn't line up, waaayyy off. Later found the engine mount caused the engine to be ****ed. (Might try this again after making sure everything clears.)


Help a brother out!!!!!!!!!! I could use it!!!!!!!!!

Should I ditch the leveler and use a sling around the headers?
Can't remove the engine mounts. Front diff in the way.
Don't really want to remove the engine mount plates. PITA to put them back on in the bay.
REALLY don't want to pull the trans. Trans vs solo 150lbs skinny black guy + approx 15" of working room/clearance to the ground + cold weather = Trans WINS!
REALLY REALLY don't want to give up on this.
REALLY REALLY REALLY don't want to have to pay someone for finishing something I can do AND that's almost done.

So yeah any and all suggestions are appreciated!!!
 






He he he... I thought you said you were going out to buy a bottle of Jack. That's what skimming gets you huh..

Uh, you bolt up the bell housing first then the trans? You're not trying to do it all at once are you?
 






Lining up the engine to the trans can be a real PITA! This takes lots of patience to accomplish, and is better off with at least 2 people.

Have you tried to relocate the leveler so that it doesn't hit the firewall? A jack under the trans will help to get them lined up better, but your going to have to work in sync with someone working the hoist.
 






Got done with removing the engine wiring harness off the one I just took out my truck. Everything went relatively easy. I do have one issue I'd like some input on. Got down to the low oil sensor and found this.
c731f1c2-1.jpg

I know the wire and connector are still good because the sensor did it's job while it was still in the truck. My question is, would putting heat shrink on the connector and wire be enough to withstand the heat from the engine and the elements? Or would some reinforcements be necessary? Like some rubber tape then heat shrink or a couple layers of heat shrink?

Also the wiring harness off my 'transplant' engine is from a Ranger 4.0L. I don't know what year, but if anybody is interested in it, just let me know or pm me. I don't need it and it'll just add to the clutter in my garage.

Use glue lined XLPE heatshrink and it should be sweet.
 






He he he... I thought you said you were going out to buy a bottle of Jack. That's what skimming gets you huh..

Uh, you bolt up the bell housing first then the trans? You're not trying to do it all at once are you?

LMAO!!! Bottle of Jack! Wouldn't get too much accomplished with that!
I didn't know you could remove the bell housing on the M5OD. I just checked my service manuals and there's no mention of it. But yes, all at once.

Lining up the engine to the trans can be a real PITA! This takes lots of patience to accomplish, and is better off with at least 2 people.

Have you tried to relocate the leveler so that it doesn't hit the firewall? A jack under the trans will help to get them lined up better, but your going to have to work in sync with someone working the hoist.

I might have to get some longer chains for the leveler. The rear bracket is attached to the back of the cyl head on the passenger side in the highest bolt hole possible. Is there another spot where I can mount the brackets besides the heads?

I was actually thinking about replacing the leveler with a towing strap/sling tied around the exhaust. Won't be as stable and getting this done safely is my main concern. With or without help.

Use glue lined XLPE heatshrink and it should be sweet.

Thanks. I'll have to use that when I replace that connector. I snapped it off somehow while I was dropping the engine in the bay.
 






Oops, you can't, very sorry for inaccuracy dude. I didn't know this trans was one piece.

And the Jack does not help things at all. I can verify that from experience.

Keep at it, you'll get it in there.
 






I GOT IT!!!!!!!

SOLO!!!!!!

I LOVE 2x4's AND BOTTLE JACKS!!!!!!! My only help...:splat:


Just thought I'd update pics and possible video of my truck running again, soon. Warming up my hands right now about to finish buttoning everything up.:thumbsup:

:chug:Thanks for the suggestions and help. That's why I am here.:chug:
 















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Had great progress today, despite the cold and snow flurries.

Finally managed to get the engine and trans mated and bolted up.

For those wondering how, I'll tell you:

First; lowered and pushed engine back in the bay as far as I could and still be able to freely move it by hand.

Crawled under my truck pulled the engine to the trans as best I could. Held it in place with one hand and wedged a 2x4 between the crossmember and the oil pan to hold it in place. The dowel was about a 1/2" from going into the trans, and about an 1-1/2" down from lining up.

Tried using my 2x4 and the little bit of leverage I had to pick up the engine on the low side.

FAIL.

Brought out my newly purchased bottle jack, and placed it under the low side and my 2x4. Pumped it up and holes lined up. Started the bolt with the dowel.

Then I realized I needed to put the metal plate back in behind the flywheel.

Did away with the 2x4. Grabbed a little baby piece of wood, because my bottle jack was lifting right at the drain plug, which was covered by my 2x4.

Pumped it up again, took the strain off my one started bolt, and proceeded to start the rest of the lower bolts.

Lowered the engine down on the mounts.

Started the rest of the bolts.

Pulled the engine in the rest of the way with the bolts.

Cranked down and torqued all the bolts I could on the bell housing.

Went inside to warm my hands!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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So now at this point, because I couldn't stand working in the cold.....(even though i had been taking "warm up breaks" every half hour or so LOL!) this is where i wound up.

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Got all the wiring harness hooked up except for the MAF and everything on the upper plenum intake.

Heater hoses hooked up.

Belt accessories put back on and connected. Left the the a/c plumbing off for now.

Tomorrow:
Everything else that needs to be installed.
Bleed the clutch.
Recharge the fuel line.

TURN THE KEY AND HOPE SHE RUNS!!!!!!!!!!
Check for leaks. LOL!
 






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