1999 Mounty 5.0 aka My Great Bad Idea

[97Sandbox]

I finally got a 302 donor for my '00 Sport!

Before I start hacking away though, I had some thoughts go through my head:
1. AWD really does handle nice on gravel country roads.
2. There's a lot I want to replace on this 302 that I could do before I pull it out of the Mounty.
3. Although the body has rust, the frame and suspension are very solid.
4. If I wanted, I could use the Mounty as a proving ground for my manual swap -- I happen to have a M5R2/BW4406 setup just laying in my barn...you can see where this is going.

After explaining these half-baked musings to my wife, she responded "as long you make building my chicken coop a priority." So it looks like we're manual swapping a Mounty!!! As soon I I get a chicken coop built anyway haha

So here's to my new best bad idea; it's dirty, it's leaky, it's going to be a ton of fun!

 

[Turdle]

Fold down those back seats and be amazed by all the cargo room.

I'm gonna say I bet you'll like 4 doors better.

 

[97Sandbox]

Fold down those back seats and be amazed by all the cargo room.

I'm gonna say I bet you'll like 4 doors better.

I love my 2 door for what it is (kinda sporty, kinda unique), but yes, I'm happy to have another 4 door back in the fleet!

 

[410Fortune]

Make the mounty into the chicken coop!! Done

If you do crush it save that front grill header panel and lights

 

[97Sandbox]

The overall goal with this Mounty is to fix/upgrade anything that will be a benefit to the eventual swapping of a manual-converted 302 into a cleaner chassis.
This will include:

• Engine maintenance and repairs
• Possibly engine upgrades
• Trans crossmember modification for M5R2
• PCM hacking to make it happen with no auto trans

I will avoid spending time/money (or at least try anyway) on:

• Suspension
• Differentials and axles (although the front is growly when coasting)
• Exterior
• Interior (except modifications necessary for swap)
• Wheels & tires

 

[97Sandbox]

Let's start with necessary engine updates! I know I want to replace:

• Spark plugs and I'm assuming I should replace wires too -- are any old wires okay, or is this a "go for the motorcraft" situation?
• Radiator hoses (the originals are still on right now!) And other cooling/heater hoses
• Water pump and studs
• Thermostat
• Belt drive everything
• Radiator fan and clutch
• Lots of gaskets -- can anyone recommend a good comprehensive gasket set?
• PCV valve
• Radiator/condenser to be replaced with 96/97 thicker core radiator (and condenser hopefully without a hole in it) from salvage yard
• Timing set -- is Cloyes good for this engine?

Anything else I should get?

 

[410Fortune]

Felpro blue gasket set available on rockauto now, they go quickly and it’s under $120

Change thermostat and waterpump use motorcraft or gates

United motor products wires are very good and around $50 on rockauto do not use cheapos

Can’t wait to see how you hack the pcm!

You can just clean out the radiator to save some money the single core is adequate for cooling the 5.0 especially with a 5 speed

Turn the trans cooler into a power steering cooler when you do the swap

 

[Josh P]

Looks like if you pull the drivetrain you will have a nice white four door chicken coup. I'll be watching this thread, anything 8 cylinders is exciting.

 

[410Fortune]

$92!!! Smoking deal

1999 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L V8 Engine Kit Gasket Set | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

They are not always in stock
You will need new head bolts

These are the best possible engine gaskets

1999 FORD EXPLORER 5.0L V8 Spark Plug Wire | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

Use discount code
235748312206056901

 

[97Sandbox]

Felpro blue gasket set available on rockauto now, they go quickly and it’s under $120

Change thermostat and waterpump use motorcraft or gates

United motor products wires are very good and around $50 on rockauto do not use cheapos

Can’t wait to see how you hack the pcm!

You can just clean out the radiator to save some money

Turn the trans cooler into a power steering cooler when you do the swap

I've got some shopping to do!

The condenser took a rock hard and needs to be replaced, that's the main reason I'm thinking of replacing the radiator too. However, any refrigerant I add would have to be removed later, so you're probably right to just flush this rad and go without ac.

I like the trans to ps cooler idea, have to think about hose routing.

@410Fortune do you know how you black trac PCM was modified for the manual swap? This is going to be my biggest hurdle, but I'm also very interested to research and see what can be done.

 

[97Sandbox]

Gotta get these bad boys moved out of my old barn so I can tear it down for chicken coop materials!

 

[Josh P]

They look good and would look better installed. Have you worn the wheels off in your mind yet?

 

[allmyEXes]

@97Sandbox Are those pieces from an F150 ?

 

[97Sandbox]

@97Sandbox Are those pieces from an F150 ?

Yes. Pulled from a '97 F150 with 118k on them.

 

[97Sandbox]

A few more questions for you 5.0 experts before I pull the trigger:

1. Do you recommend sticking with the OEM rated thermostat (192 deg F) or an alternate temperature?
2. Do you recommend replacing the thermostat housing at the same time as the thermostat? The cast aluminum one on my engine looks newer, but I'm not sure how prone they are to issues (maybe I'm just scarred from owning an SOHC).
3. For the timing set, do you all just recommend the standard one or one of the "high performance" options?

Lastly, I'm planning to go ahead and buy ARP head bolts so I can reuse them if/when I swap heads in the future. Anyone know the difference between these two?

They look the same to me except cost.

Thanks!

 

[Turdle]

I use a Motorcraft 193 thermostat as I have noticed different performance from others, according to my scangauge.
The thermostat housing should be ok, unless outlet nipple is loose or corroded.

Stock type double roller timing set will be good.

Beware of Amazon counterfeits. I'd call a dealer, or, levitown Ford parts ( vendor) for parts.

 

[410Fortune]

Oh to answer your question the black sport trac pcm was sent in and programmed by a professional let me get the name

yes stock temp thermo, 192-195 the computer needs to see 200 and change
double roller timing set is good these are not problematic, Ford or cloyes will work
stock thermo housings do not really wear out they are aluminum thank goodness
1969 design was a good one!

 

[97Sandbox]

Parts are on order and everything should be here by Friday...that gives me some time to really crank out the remainder of the barn demolition and start chicken coop construction.

Once the coop is wife-approved, I intend to service the Mounty as follows:

• Sea foam treatment through the PCV hose
• Disassembly of cooling system, intake, etc.
• Replace intake, valve cover, TB, IAC, EGR gaskets (and clean up along the way)
  • I'm hoping this will resolve the bank 1&2 lean codes which are the only ones currently showing up on my scan tool
• Replace PCV valve (after vacuuming out any crud on the screen -- should be accessible with the intake off)
• Plugs & wires
• Replace cooling system components
• Coolant flush and refill
• Oil and filter change

With any luck I'll end up with a healthy 302 and I can get the Mounty registered and have a rig to take to the salvage yard to start gathering manual Ranger parts and Expedition driveshafts for the M5R2/4406 swap!

 

[410Fortune]

Might want to service the trans? And the awd t case depending on how long you plan to drive it
The awd t case could use new fluid yearly
It’s only a couple of quarts

 

[97Sandbox]

Might want to service the trans? And the awd t case depending on how long you plan to drive it
The awd t case could use new fluid yearly
It’s only a couple of quarts

Not a bad idea, I just want to avoid putting time/money into things I won't use in the long run. A bit of ATF seems like a worthwhile small expense though. I see the t case takes regular mercon fluid -- can the 4R70 take the generic ATF too, or does it need merc V like the 5R55? It's unlikely the ATF has ever been changed, so I'm a bit nervous to open that can of worms...