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98 V8 AWD with bad engine gets junk yard 99 V8 engine

Have you tried going through the floor under the console? That's how people get to the top transfer case bolts. It might help for the bell housing bolts.

I guess I need to look better, but there is a removable access panel or something??? I never had the console out of this one. I did in my '96 parts car and don't remember seeing one??

Heck...I may make some strategic holes to access all these bolts in the future.

I'll search the forum some more and see if I can find a pic or something.

Thanks.
 



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in this thread I have already discussed this

the ratcheting wrench pictured above is a SHORTCUT big time

going through the floor is another one, it will allow you to get all 4 top bellhousing bolts and the stubborn POS trans dipstick bolt.....

You cannot pull them together, noth without killing your radiator support

V8 = tight fit
 






in this thread I have already discussed this

the ratcheting wrench pictured above is a SHORTCUT big time

going through the floor is another one, it will allow you to get all 4 top bellhousing bolts and the stubborn POS trans dipstick bolt.....

You cannot pull them together, noth without killing your radiator support

V8 = tight fit

removing the engine mount plates and dropping the block down a bit is also a big help, using the ratcheting wrench of course :)
 






The rug covers the access panel under the console. It has a bunch of tiny bolts around the panel. So you end up pulling one of the seats as well as the console. I'm sure some have cut through the rug to avoid the seat R&R. Below shows the mounts for the full length console. After removing the front and middle bolts(4), the console pulls rearward to unhook from the rear bracket.
 

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I slit my carpet right down the middle, no need to pull seats, witht he console replaced the carpet cut is hidden

4ea 8mm bolts hold the access panel down
 






in this thread I have already discussed this

the ratcheting wrench pictured above is a SHORTCUT big time

Yes. I see where I can get to the two top bolts with it. It is the other 2 I was wondering about.

410Fortune said:
going through the floor is another one, it will allow you to get all 4 top bellhousing bolts and the stubborn POS trans dipstick bolt.....

If that is the case, maybe I should have just dropped the trans, but heck...I need to check a leak on the engine anyway. After this pull, maybe I will be able to do it in 4 hours. Or maybe not...

410Fortune said:
You cannot pull them together, noth without killing your radiator support

V8 and V6 with trans are really close to the same length. The v8 was a little easier, actually (love the 302) as I didn't have to remove crap off the top other than the upper plenum which is easy. It is all about angle. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be. You do have to pull the transfer case. I have done both the 4.0 and the 5.0 that way as I could not get to those darn bellhousing bolts. :) I have pulled dozens of 302s on easier to work on vehicles though, so I know where to put the chain and bolts to get the angle. I actually took pictures of where I had the chain so I can reference it in the future. Funny how we all run into different methods and different experiences. Gotta love the internet.

tight.jpg


Thanks.
 






Thanks on the access panel stuff too Don. I hope the ST has it. I can't see it from the bottom. I was thinking of changing the consoles out anyway, so there is yet another excuse.
 






I need a new hoist! LOL I couldnt lift that high if I took my front tires off and layed frame!!

I may have to copy that trick when I pull the engine back out of this 98....in a week or a month... very frustrating!!
 






Look at how easy the bellhousing bolts are to get to in that picture too. :)
 






I know! I have done that before, just my truck had no front end LOL I even pulled the t case with it, took like 3 hours by myself total

I need a ceiling mounted hoist....hmmmm LOL



this "modification" makes it real easy to pull the V8 LOL:

drivetrainhoist.jpg

yes I spilled 8 quarts of ATF that day, it took every rag within 3 miles to get it to non-ice -skating-rink status again, slicker then snot!

here is a huge pic of the center console covered access panel
access.jpg
 






Holy cow...that is a big access panel. I will try it. Thanks for throwing in the pic.

BTW, if it was you that said you lost trans fluid due to the filler tube...I had to laugh as I did the same thing! I noticed it the next day, but it was only a few quarts as a lot of it was drained already. If you don't get that cleaned quickly, it really makes a problem, I noticed. I didn't think much about that being possible...so much fluid to come out of a fill tube hole. Sure as heck... Oh...and another quart a few months later where I had stored it for a while. Thought it was empty...no...

I suppose I have to drain the tranny all the way to get the TC out without a major mess too? I should anyway as I mangled the fill tube the first time I pulled it out and I bought a good one at the local pull-a-part to replace it. Also thinking of putting a Baumann kit in while I have it drained (if I have to drain). I put one in my 302 Stranger Ranger and loved it, but I had the Baumannator to go with it.

Might do an HO cam and 1.7rr too.

Why is this thing adding words to my post??? It is not a stranger ranger...
 






This is A.pril F.ools day, lots of words have been replaced by "special" words. Look at the main site, headings etc.
 






I thought that MIGHT be the case...
 






Always drain your converter and the trans pan before pulling the transmission, I failed to do so on the day of the picture above, actually I believe I drained the converter, came back a week later and forgot to drain the trans pan, I also figured I am pulling it all out straight forward, it wont spill much, LOL......it did! 8 quarts out the back of the tailhousing once the t case was seperated, I did this same drivetrain pull on two trucks, the 96 rolled donor and my 96 build daily driver, neither truck had a radiator support, made it real easy and I got too sell two AWD t cases :)
 






OK then...no taking chances. I will just drain it all. I have been down and out for the last couple days with a stomach virus... Hope to get back at it tomorrow now that I have joined the land of the living again.
 






I've been watching and helping others with their swaps. Today I thought about if I was able to put enough mileage on to need my own engine work. I don't think that I want another SOHC/5R55E for work use. I think I'll begin picking spare parts from my V8 truck to be ready later to do my own swap.

You guys make it look so easy.
 












So I get my drill said:
The oil pump drive shaft is a 1/4 hex not a 5/16 hex. Using a 5/16 socket will give you some oil flow from the filter but no pressure. Try using a 1/4 socket to drive the oil pump before you pull the engine again.
 






thanks for the tip!!

1/4" socket I will try........I plan to pull the drivetrain this weekend, unless we have our baby, any day now....

Before I pull it again I will try this, but there are about 10 signs that point to no oil pressure on this sucker...tick tick tick tick
 



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Whoa...you are about to have a baby? 1st?? Congrats.
 






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