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Ford 300 Inline 6 into a B2

kert0307

Explorer Addict
Joined
September 6, 2005
Messages
2,411
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11
City, State
Pella, Iowa
Year, Model & Trim Level
'00 Sport and '89 B2
Well, I thought I would start a separate thread for this than my B2 SAS in case anyone else is interested in doing a similar swap since most will swap in a 4.0 or 302 v8 into a B2 and as of yet I have not found a B2 with the inline 300.

My reasons for choosing an inline 300 engine
1. I wanted to change to a carberated setup to get rid of the EFI system and eventually convert it to run on propane
2. I wanted to stay in the ford family which pretty much left me with the 289, 302, 300, and I threw around a 351, but it seemed like overkill for what I needed in a trail rig
3. The 300 makes more torque at a much lower rpm than the 302 which is great for off-road (223 lbs.-ft. @ 1600 rpm stock)
4. The 300's are known for being extremely reliable
5. The 300 is a long narrow engine so width shouldn't be an issue.
6. It would be a unique swap into a B2

So, lets start off with some pictures. These first pictures show relative sizes of the 300, on the engine stand to a 302 used in a marine application. The 300 measures about 3 inches longer than the 302.

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I chose the NP435 4 speed transmission because it is a simple strong transmission with a super low granny first gear (6.69). Here is is mounted to the engine for mock up.

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So far, here are my limiting factors for installing the engine/trans combo. Oil pan is hitting the front cross member and shifter location is hitting the firewall. I might be able to remove the top cover of the transmission to make it fit to start on mounts.

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I had a 200 in my mustang. high compression engines they are... the inherant problem with the inline 6's are head warpage due to the long design. there ia guy over on the mustang board I used to be on that was making an aluminum head for the inlines.....and it was producing some serious number, plus you could turbo or supercharge them

good luck
 






...Subscribing For the general idea and to see how long it takes RangerX to notice this thread...:D

..Are you going to be able to fit this directly in or, do you plan on doing some cutting???
 






I think the only cutting that will need to be done is to make a new holes for the shifter. I may make a whole new cross member though to lower the engine down a bit since it is pretty tall. I'll see how the oil pan fits in with the cross member first.
 












...Subscribing For the general idea and to see how long it takes RangerX to notice this thread...:D
Took me just 7 hours, Ted! :p:

Have you thought about overall driveline length in that short of a wheelbase?
How short of a rear driveshaft will you have?

Not knocking the idea at all, as I'm a big fan of the 300, and would love to have it in a trail rig.
 






Have you thought about overall driveline length in that short of a wheelbase?
How short of a rear driveshaft will you have?

Well, Keep in mind that I am pretty much extending the wheel base so the front and back have a 90 deg approach angle. Right now the only t case I have is a single speed that came mated to the NP435 (I think it's a Dana21?) it's pretty small. I will eventually get a married NP205, but for now it will get the job done since the 435 tranny has such a low first gear it is pretty much the equivalent of running in 4 low.

If the engine is put in pretty much touching the firewall, my rear drive shaft will be just under 48". The rear will probably be a 3 link as well if that matters.
 






Nice, this is gonna be good. :thumbsup:
 






Update: took the top of the trans off and got the engine in a little farther.... Pictures tell the story, engine is still a good 6" from the firewall. Oil pan on the 300 dips in the wrong spot for the b2 frame = front cross member comes out tomorrow. Trans crossmember might have to come out too, especially when I replace the tcase with a NP205.

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Subscribing! Love the EFI 300 in my F150 and i'd love to see one in something small like a B2!
 






In case anyone is wondering my tools of choice in removing the engine cross member are an angle grinder, and an air hammer with the pointed style tip. I've got over a dozen of the factory rivets out and still have a few to go. My new pointed air hammer bit is already rounded off to a .25 radius nub...
 






Well, after I removed all of the bolts and rivets holding the front cross member and beating on it a little, I noticed this...

2624078320084817080S500x500Q85.jpg


Yes, that's a vertical weld between the frame rails and the engine cross member, you can only see it after removing some of the rivets and taking off one of the riveted on sections that "boxes" the frame. So, in conclusion, this crossmember was bolted, riveted, and welded together... wtf? I should have done this in the beginning.... enter, plasma cutter

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Test engine placement with the new found room.

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Radiator is out of an 80's FS Bronco with the 300

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Still some cutting for the shifter

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what about putting the radiator in the back?
LOL

thats a long *****

any plans to cut the firewall?
 






The firewall will be trimmed a bit because right now the bell housing is touching it. I am planning on running an E-fan so mounting is a little more flexible. I had toyed with the idea of putting the radiator under the hood hummer style, but the engine is a little tall. I'm pretty sure I can get it to work though.

On a side note, I thought I should comment that the frame rails are really flexy without the engine cross member. I even welded the front bumper on and it's still pretty wobbly.
 






Awesome, always liked the inlines. Dad had a F150 with the 300 and I had the 200 in a Mustang like ThePhoenix, and it was a runner.
 






i like this :thumbsup:
 






I even welded the front bumper on and it's still pretty wobbly.

lol that cradle is half of the front frame! its huge!!
 






subscribing, this is too cool not to work. We have 3 trucks in the family with the 300, an 86 FSB, a 90 F150 SWB, and a 91 f-150 LWB. They are great engines
 






Just a suggestion: Install a new front cross-member. You don't want the suspension making the engine block and trans a stressed member of the frame. It'll rip 'em apart when you start flexin' it.

Looks like a neat project. Keep us updated!

Oh, and I wouldn't just cut a hole in the firewall for the bell housing either... Just pound it in where clearance is needed, but maintain the integrity of the firewall there for safety. It'll help keep some of the heat out of the passenger compartment too...
 



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I will be adding a cross member when I make my engine mounts. I will also be making a trans cross member. If needed I might put an engine cage over where the coil springs mount too to relieve some of the torsion on the frame rails as well. I am getting close to finishing mocking up my front suspension, and after that's done I'll know where I can put some cross members in.
 






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