How to: Warrior Shackle Installation (pics)

[SkanlaxJMO]

I was going to run 9/16" bolts in mine, but was actually able to find the metric ones locally. If you can't find any let me know -- I have a source.

Otherwise, try industrial fastener places from the yellow pages. It will take you a couple to find them in stock.

Definitely run a Grade 8 bolt (or the metric equivalent) in the shackles!

yeah im probably going to go with 9/16th's unless home depot has 14mm.....because im cheap like that...
ohh and the autozone chepaies came with grade 5's...lol

 

[storlied]

Is it possible to install the warrior shackles without jacking the truck up? n just bolt the shackle to the leaf, n pull it down real hard n bolt it to the frame?

or just use one jack to lift the body? (yea, prolly a tad bit unsafe) but is it possible?

 

[DeRocha]

Is it possible to install the warrior shackles without jacking the truck up? n just bolt the shackle to the leaf, n pull it down real hard n bolt it to the frame?

or just use one jack to lift the body? (yea, prolly a tad bit unsafe) but is it possible?

No.
With the vehicle sitting at rest there is a ton of pressure on the the leaf springs. In order to replace the shackles you need to slowly raise the vehicle by the frame to unload this pressure. If you place a jack right before the forward leaf spring frame mount and start jacking it up you will see the frame/body go up, but the axle remain on the ground (this is unloading the pressure). When the axle starts to move it indicates you have removed all the pressure. and can remove the shackle bolts.

 

[storlied]

So that's all I have to do? Jack it up right before the front leaf mount until the wheel lifts off the ground? Then install the shackle? Will it be hard?

 

[Turdle]

So that's all I have to do? Jack it up right before the front leaf mount until the wheel lifts off the ground? Then install the shackle? Will it be hard?

You might even need a bottle jack to jack the spring away from the frame-

I am all for doing things a first time, and commend your effort. Please have a friend there with you. While this is doable in your driveway-you can get hurt doing it. Be careful.
Double question, triple check every step

 

[storlied]

I wish there was a video, even if it were animated. Could give me a general idea of what to pull on n what not.
I don't understand what you're saying by jacking the spring away from the frame, it couldn't be so stiff that a person couldnt pull it down.... or is it?.. :|

 

[DeRocha]

A leaf spring supports the weight of the vehicle.. You would need to pull down with several hundreds pounds of force to move the springs. The biggest problem for me when doing this was getting the old bolts off. They were rusted in good and took several hours to get out..

When I replaced my shackles I used a floor jack on the center of the rear diff (careful not to screw up the cover). I jacked the entire rear of the truck up (kinda high) and placed jack stands (both left/right sides) in front of the forward leaf spring shackle mount.. I then slowly lowered the floor jack so the entire rear axle was hanging in the air and off the jack (the point at which the leaf spring tension was removed). I this doesn't happen the jack stands aren't high enough (raise the vehicle and try again).

Next:
Remove the wheels on both sides.
Ensure E-Brake is Off.
place the floor jack on the left axle tube
Jack up the tube slightly (just enough before it moves) to support its weight
Removed the shackle bolts (lower then upper). The leaf spring may drop slightly.
Install new shackle bolts You will need to lower or raise the axle with the floor jack to line up the bolt holes).
Repeat on the Right side.

 

[DeRocha]

I wish there was a video, even if it were animated. Could give me a general idea of what to pull on n what not.
I don't understand what you're saying by jacking the spring away from the frame, it couldn't be so stiff that a person couldnt pull it down.... or is it?.. :|

I assume you already looked at the Dead Link Removed thread correct?

 

[KPT]

As DeRocha said, DO NOT attempt this without the frame on jackstands.

I found it much easier to take the u-bolts that hold the spring to the axle off, then you can move the spring freely.

If you could compress a leafspring by hand how could it possibly support the vehicle??

 

[storlied]

alright, seems like i've got a pretty good understanding of this, cept one thing.. was wondering if someone could post a picture of the bolt everyone has problems with.

 

[glfredrick]

There are only two bolts on each side -- the upper one that goes through the frame rail and the lower one that goes through the spring eye.

Typically, it is the bolt that goes through the spring eye that causes the problems. I'd lube up both if it were me.

FYI, worst case scenario -- you have to sawsall or torch off the old bolts, drive the spring bushing out of the eye of the spring and replace it with a new one... In that case, it needed to be replaced anyway, as it was frozen to the bolt and not giving you good suspension action. Line up a source for a new spring bushing before you do the work, just in case you need it. If you are working on your only set of wheels, purchase the bushings ahead of time -- you can always return them if they are not needed.

 

[storlied]

so either bolt could give me a problem?

whats your opinion on doing this job in the winter?, outside.. avg temp ima say... hm.. -10?

right now it's 15, at 7:30am.. but i wont be gettin these for a while now.. it'll get colder out..

damn alaska, can get down to -50.. burr...

Which bolt typically gives people a problem the most, the bolt in the frame? Or the bolt in the leaf spring?

I'd feel a lot more uncomfortable hammering a bolt outta the spring than then frame..

 

[glfredrick]

so either bolt could give me a problem?

whats your opinion on doing this job in the winter?, outside.. avg temp ima say... hm.. -10?

right now it's 15, at 7:30am.. but i wont be gettin these for a while now.. it'll get colder out..

damn alaska, can get down to -50.. burr...

Which bolt typically gives people a problem the most, the bolt in the frame? Or the bolt in the leaf spring?

I'd feel a lot more uncomfortable hammering a bolt outta the spring than then frame..

You can do the work outside (as if you have a choice...) I've lived in central Wisconsin most of my life and have worked to -25, so I know what you are up against. Keep things like spray cans inside to keep them warm so they'll spray when you need them... Of course, at that temp, air tools are probably out of the question, as are hydraulic jacks. I've found that setting up a tarp to block the wind tends to help, as does facing the corner of the vehicle you're working on into the sun (if you have any of that this time of the year!).

The spring bolt is generally the troublesome one... Don't worry about hammering it out -- get a propane torch and burn the rubber. Just watch out so you don't light the truck on fire! Perhaps you'll get lucky and everything will just come apart -- I've done some that went that way. Makes the job a breeze (pardon the pun). All told, if everything goes well, you'll be back inside within an hour. If not, plan on more time.

Mostly, don't make more of the job than it is... It is just two bolts on each side...

 

[storlied]

Is this possible with a single jack? On the frame?

Blah.

 

[glfredrick]

Yes, but have a couple of blocks or jackstands available. You can do one side at a time. There will be some twist that may make lining up stuff a tad harder, but it isn't that big a deal.

 

[killswitchfan134]

Another tid bit... If you don't have 4 friend's to help pull the spring down, you can use a small bottle jack inbetween the spring and the frame..

TAKE THAT ADVICE IT HELPS SOOOOO MUCH!!!!!!!

 

[spabula]

Just got my Warrior shackles in the mail yesterday. The question I have is I noticed the bolts are ISO grade 8.8... which is slighty less than a SAE grade 5.... do most people who get the WAR-153 replace the supplied bolts with ISO 10.9's / SAE 8's???? I dont really feel like putting these on and then replacing the bolts later.

Brenden

 

[killswitchfan134]

the grade 8's are the strongest bolts out there if you dont want to replace the bolts out you should get the grade ates

 

[DeRocha]

Just got my Warrior shackles in the mail yesterday. The question I have is I noticed the bolts are ISO grade 8.8... which is slighty less than a SAE grade 5.... do most people who get the WAR-153 replace the supplied bolts with ISO 10.9's / SAE 8's???? I dont really feel like putting these on and then replacing the bolts later.
Brenden

As Killswitchfan134 mentioned you have it backwards. Grade 8 bolts are the hardest you can find.
From nutsandbolts.com

Grade 8 Bolts
Grade 8 bolts are considered some of the most durable and reliable one can find. They are comprised of carbon alloy steel, thus giving them a high psi rating. Zinc or yellow zinc grade 8 bolts are available to resist corrosion. We have these, and any other types of bolts you need here at NutsandBolts.com. Our easy to navigate website makes shopping for the right fasteners simple.

 

[spabula]

As Killswitchfan134 mentioned you have it backwards. Grade 8 bolts are the hardest you can find.
From nutsandbolts.com

I think you may have mistaken what I said. the bolts that came with my WAR 153's are metric/ISO grade 8.8 NOT SAE grade 8 there is a different between the two. ISO 8.8 is comparable to a SAE grade 5 ..... I just wanted to know if people who bought Warriors had swapped the bolts out that came with them.