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How to: Warrior Shackle Installation (pics)




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I think you may have mistaken what I said. the bolts that came with my WAR 153's are metric/ISO grade 8.8 NOT SAE grade 8 there is a different between the two. ISO 8.8 is comparable to a SAE grade 5 ..... I just wanted to know if people who bought Warriors had swapped the bolts out that came with them.

Sorry my bad.. :dunno: I did miss read your thread. For others that may find this thread the Proof load specs are:

Grade 5=85,000 psi, Grade 8.8 (metric) = 87,000 psi, and Grade 8= 120,000 psi.

IMO the Grade 8.8 metric hardware is fine for most vehicles. I moderately wheel my Explorer and use the 8.8 metric bolts that came with the Warrior shackles. They have been fine 4yrs+ with no issues. If the shackles didn't come with bolts then I would have picked up Grade 8 hardware for a few $ more..

BTW when installing the shackle bolts coat them really good with anti-seize to prevent them from rusting inside the sleeve of the leaf spring bushing.
 






Thanks for the never seize idea.... i would have just pounded those bad boys in there!!
 






War-153

the above shackles in the pictures are warrior products They are powdercoated in hammertone color and available cheap at www.desertrat.com but youll have to call their number as the part isnt listed on their site
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Hey: I have a stock 2000 Explorer Sport 4x4 with a single leaf in the rear. Can I use the WAR-153? And do these come with new bolts and bushings?
If not who sells them with the new bolts and bushings?

Thanks, Man
 












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Hey: I have a stock 2000 Explorer Sport 4x4 with a single leaf in the rear. Can I use the WAR-153? And do these come with new bolts and bushings?
If not who sells them with the new bolts and bushings?

Thanks, Man

I just got mine and they do come with bolts. I don't know of anyone that includes bushings with their shackles but you can always purchase them separate. And as far as I know you can use them with mono leaf springs
 






The only shackles from Desert Rat are for toyota tacomas....will they still work with a 2wd 98 EX Sport
 












alright i have a question. i just bought some shackles and im prolly going to install them this weekend, if the weather is nice:rolleyes: but i remember back in the day when i use to build low rider mini trucks. we use to use blocks and u bolts to lower the truck, now i remember you could also use them to raise the truck, now can u still do that, or is that not a good idea. cause i know they make 3 inch raising/lowering blocks?

just wondering
 






alright i have a question. i just bought some shackles and im prolly going to install them this weekend, if the weather is nice:rolleyes: but i remember back in the day when i use to build low rider mini trucks. we use to use blocks and u bolts to lower the truck, now i remember you could also use them to raise the truck, now can u still do that, or is that not a good idea. cause i know they make 3 inch raising/lowering blocks?

just wondering

Blocks will only raise a vehicle if the leaf springs are Over the axle. Since the Explorer has a SUA (spring under axle) setup using blocks will DECREASE Clearance.
 






Blocks will only raise a vehicle if the leaf springs are Over the axle. Since the Explorer has a SUA (spring under axle) setup using blocks will DECREASE Clearance.

ahhh that makes all the since in the world! you think i would have noticed the spring UNDER the axle:eek:
 






I have a question how hard was it to get the top bolt from the stock shackle especially on the pass side with the tailpipe have been pounding on the damn thing it dosent want to come out.
 






Hey: I have a stock 2000 Explorer Sport 4x4 with a single leaf in the rear. Can I use the WAR-153?

Yes you can. My '99 Sport has mono leafs.

how much of a lift do u get

My leafs are shot. My install of shackles only leveled the truck out. :rolleyes:

I have a question how hard was it to get the top bolt from the stock shackle especially on the pass side with the tailpipe have been pounding on the damn thing it dosen't want to come out.

Spray some PB Blaster in the rubber bushing holing you tailpipe on. Let it sit for a few - then using a large pair of channel locks push the exhaust's metal hanger out of the rubber busing and let it hang. when your done wipe off the oil and reinstall.

Try also to spray some PB Blaster into the bolt and let it sit. Put a socket wrench on the bolt and spin it a bit; now try to take it out. You can also hit the bolt with a hammer from the opposite side while ratcheting it to "persuade it" a bit.

-Andy
D.J.O.R. Netzhauptmann
 












Yeah i gave up for tonite ill continue tomorrow hopefully before work. well i thought about grinding the bolt off but didnt want to be left with no car tomorrow if i couldnt get it off Andy can i get that at home depot im guessing its alot better than wd40 cause i almost used a half a can and it didnt do anything..one more question i went to lower the tire cause that would clear alot of room underneath and i couldnt find how to get it down sound stupid i know but where is the screw...thanks
 






Yeah i gave up for tonite ill continue tomorrow hopefully before work. well i thought about grinding the bolt off but didnt want to be left with no car tomorrow if i couldnt get it off Andy can i get that at home depot im guessing its alot better than wd40 cause i almost used a half a can and it didnt do anything..one more question i went to lower the tire cause that would clear alot of room underneath and i couldnt find how to get it down sound stupid i know but where is the screw...thanks

PB blaster - autozone, pepboys, advance, etc....

If you're talking about your spare you'll need to get the keyed rods from under the carpet behind your rear seat. Insert them into the hole just above the rear bumper and crank it down with your tire iron (left side access panel).

-Andy
D.J.O.R. Netzhauptmann
 






Thanks i felt like an idiot was looking at this hole and i knew it had to be spun but didnt take much time to figure it out it was late but i got it and actually i went to home depot not thinking i was going to find it cause the one over here su#ks but i got it and let me just say that stuff is a miricle i havent taken a second stab at the shackles yet but this fixed squeeks that i have been spraying wd40 on for months....thanks for the info Andy
 






does anyone know where i can get the specks on the 2" shackles so i can make my own?
 






sorry if this is a stupid question but i read through all (well most :p:) of this thread but i do not completely understand what to do with the axle. I understand jacking up the truck, but when i take off the bolts, wont the axle drop down? I dont want to damage any shocks or anything so how do i do this? do i put a jack under it and take off the bolts then lower the axle to put the new shackles on? This thread has helped me a lot to understand how to do it. So if anyone could clear up this one question, i will get to working on it tomorrow. How long would it take 2 people to do this? an hour maybe? thanks for yalls help.
 



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sorry if this is a stupid question but i read through all (well most :p:) of this thread but i do not completely understand what to do with the axle. I understand jacking up the truck, but when i take off the bolts, wont the axle drop down? I dont want to damage any shocks or anything so how do i do this? do i put a jack under it and take off the bolts then lower the axle to put the new shackles on? This thread has helped me a lot to understand how to do it. So if anyone could clear up this one question, i will get to working on it tomorrow. How long would it take 2 people to do this? an hour maybe? thanks for yalls help.

The axle won't really drop down, and you won't hurt your shocks. It can hang on them for a while, but you really don't have to jack it up that far.

I recommend doing one side at a time -- jack up the BODY just enough to be able to take the weight off the spring on that side -- remove the old shackle and install the new one -- then switch sides.

Time wise -- it could EASILY be done in an hour IF the bolts come right out. If not, it could be an all-day job. I've seen them go both ways -- sometimes on the same truck!

If the stock bolts won't come out, just cut, grind, or torch them off, then slug them out of the frame -- who cares, you are replacing them with all new stuff. :thumbsup:
 






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