Removing the differentials...

[kythri]

So...

I may have just found a hell of a deal - front and rear 4.10 LS differentials for $50/each, out of a wrecked (rolled) Explorer (D2 door code).

That's for the differentials only, no axle, etc.

I'm still learning the gearhead side of things (spent too long as a computer nerd), so what do I need to do to yank the diffs out? Is there a good write-up somewhere here? Spent a while on the search engine, and I'm not finding too much, but I may not be plugging the right terms in...

 

[Blee1099]

Are you referring to the carrier and ring & pinion assembly?

 

[kythri]

Are you referring to the carrier and ring & pinion assembly?

I believe so...

 

[Blee1099]

I believe so...

Okay.. Lets start with the front axle..

You need to remove the calipers, rotors, hub assembly, etc. to get to the CV axles. Remove the CV axles out. Disconnect front driveshaft from yoke, requires either a socket or torq bit. Remove 3 mounting bolts. Axle is pretty much free other than the vent tubes, etc.. Once you get the axle out, you can then loosen the nut that holds the yoke in place. Remove diffy cover, release the bearing caps, pry out the carrier and then push the ring gear gear out of the housing.

Rear axle is just about the same.. First remove the differential cover. Remove the caliper, rotors, etc. Push in on the axle shafts to get to the C-clips that hold the 8.8 shafts in place. pull the c-clips out with a pair of pliers from the differential. once you get the clips out, remove the shafts. Remove the bearing caps out of the differential like the D35. Remove the nut that holds the yoke on the axleshaft flange. remove the carrier and then press the ring gear or is that the pinion gear.. I can't remember

To be perfectly honest I'd suggest downloading or finding a service manual since trying to explain how to do it on the internet is some what difficult without having actual images.

 

[kythri]

*SNIP*

To be perfectly honest I'd suggest downloading or finding a service manual since trying to explain how to do it on the internet is some what difficult without having actual images.

Thanks for the assistance.

I'll see what I can find - I have a Haynes and a Chilton's for the Explorers, but they really never seem to delve into anything more complicated than some simple maintenance.

Hell, I just replaced the serpentine belt tensioner last week, and while I was pretty sure I wouldn't have any issues, I popped open the books just to make sure, and there wasn't anything more than how to use the tensioner to remove/replace the belt...

 

[CDW6212R]

Your biggest issue should be who/where to have them installed. If that is the right price, great and go get them. Do ask them ahead of time about the front though.

For all of the labor to R&R the front diff. you really don't want to have to go inside the housing. Discuss with them the "hard" work it is to get just the housing out of the front, you don't want to have to also R&R the differential(the chunk).

Come to a price that gets you the whole front housing. You could easily end up spending over $100 just to get that differential installed into your front housing. Pay what you have to to get the whole front differential housing. Good luck,

 

[kythri]

Your biggest issue should be who/where to have them installed. If that is the right price, great and go get them. Do ask them ahead of time about the front though.

For all of the labor to R&R the front diff. you really don't want to have to go inside the housing. Discuss with them the "hard" work it is to get just the housing out of the front, you don't want to have to also R&R the differential(the chunk).

Come to a price that gets you the whole front housing. You could easily end up spending over $100 just to get that differential installed into your front housing. Pay what you have to to get the whole front differential housing. Good luck,

Well, it was my plan to do the install myself. I was going to snag the parts now while they were cheap, and do the replacement here in a month or two when I get the lift kit...

I'll talk to them to see how much the whole pumpkin is.

Should I do the same for the rear?

 

[kythri]

BTW, does someone make a new cover for the front differential housing?

I recently changed the fluid on mine, and that was just a gigantic pain in the ass. When I swap everything over during the lift install, I was going to put a rear girdle deal on that had the drain plug and the fill plug.

Is there something similar for the front?

 

[CDW6212R]

The rear is a bigger job to swap, the whole diff. housing. In the front it's only three bolts, and the three shafts. I don't know how to set up the gears in the front, I'd much rather just swap the whole housing. Night,

 

[MountaineerGreen]

I see that you plan to swap these yourself- be warned;

1st- You can't just drop gears in- they have to be setup with precision tools. Even if you saved all the shims in the order they came from the housings, no two housings are alike, so the setup would be different.

2nd- Used gears make noise when setup in a different housing- in most cases. The wear pattern isn't the same and hence the noise- some gear installers won't do or warranty used gear installs because of this.

I'd buy the (EDIT: Whole axle assembly) axles intact if they are good. Be careful about a rear axle from a rollover, they can be bent or damaged.

 

[CDW6212R]

True, Evan both of my 99 axles were bent. I went for an alignment and the RR was noisy, the brakes were touching because of the axle. It looked cool up in the air on the rack, the tires wobbling. I bought a whole 98 rear for $150, just for the axles.