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Servo bore fix

I thought it was the other way around that the w was on the later models. I'm not a half reliable source for info though so I could easily be wrong. Not sure if either is aluminum. I do know the 03 I currently have has a cable throttle.
 



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I just checked rock auto myself and all the numbers match for the long block in their description. I just wanna know before I drop possibly $800 for this truck. This will make the 4th 3rd gen sitting in my driveway haha. I'm gonna have a crap ton of parts if anyone is interested. I keep finding them for $5-800, either blown motors or blown trannies. I might make a side business with these things. Keep buying them for that price, fix em and sell em for $3-4000.
 






Appears to be a difference in timing set. Not sure Tue difference or if it matters but there do have slightly different part numbers.
 






tensioners

You reminded by that at some point Ford "cheaped out" on the tensioners. The metal base tensioners were replaced with composite base tensioners on the SOHC 4.6L V8 engines. My 2003 Aviator DOHC 4.6L V8 engine still has the metal base tensioners. The composite ones fail. If you plan to keep the vehicle spend the money and get the set with the metal base tensioners.
 






So the early build motor would actually be better then? And I can purchase either kit and it'll bolt up to either engine?

I've been searching for the last 2+ hours. It appears that nearly any 4.6 would work if you don't mind swapping parts, including iron block 2v stang engines. Car-part.com showed 02 as no interchange, 02 explorers and mountaineers only. It shows 03 interchange from 03 to 04. That isn't always reliable though. I know for a fact for an 04 3.0L V6 Mazda 6 it shows no interchange to anything except Mazda 6. However with just a few part changes, its the same 3.0 duratech found in God knows how many Ford cars, fusion, escape, freestyle, etc. Odd thing about the lack of 4.6 interchange, I'm guessing its from the switch to drive by wire rather than a cable actuated throttle, which will take minutes to change with the motor out of the truck, my 03 is cable.
 






Looking at everything, I think I'll be safe going with the early 02 motor for my 03. Or maybe putting the 03 trams in the 02... Which way should I do it? I've read the earlys had lots of issues they worked out in later years. Not sure how bad they really are though.
 






both keepers?

Do you plan to keep both or keep one and sell one? I would decide which one has the best exterior and interior and keep it. Then I'd install the functional engine and functional transmission in the other one and sell it. Finally I'd repair the remaining engine and transmission and install them in the keeper. You don't want to live at a mini-pick-n-pull.

The 2002 and 2003 both have weak stock torque converters. They make the vehicle sluggish/non-responsive for the power to weight ratio.
 






I plan on keeping one and selling/parting out the other. Whichever one I keep is gonna get the functional parts first. I am in need of a reliable 4wd soon with winter here. Getting one running and driving is my first priority. After that I'll worry about the other stuff. Is rebuilding a 4.6 something a diy guy like myself could do for a reasonable cost? That's assuming the block isn't junk on the tied up engine.
 






tied up engine?

. . . Is rebuilding a 4.6 something a diy guy like myself could do for a reasonable cost? That's assuming the block isn't junk on the tied up engine.

I don't know your definition of "tied up engine". For the Aviator engine I bought I was told it was swapped out because it had a "knock". When I tore it down I found it had two spun rod bearings and the wear on one rod journal was so excessive the crankshaft couldn't be used. The cylinder wall on the corresponding cylinder was out of taper and out of round tolerances so that meant boring the block and purchasing oversize pistons. I paid $300 for the long block and it will cost another $2500 before I'm done. And that doesn't include another $300 if I get the valves and seats ground (32 valves).
 






Holy hell these are expensive to rebuild! I can get a reman on rock auto for $2500 + $150ish shipping + refundable core charge. I'm actually considering going that route. Especially if they cut me a better deal since I've done probably over $10,000 worth of business with them. Be nice to have a brand new engine that will be broke in the way I want, which is reasonably hard so the rings get good and seated. I only paid $700 for it with new tires, new steering rack, PS pump, and supposedly new tcase/center diff. At that price I could drop in a reman engine and trans when (not if, knowing these trucks) needed and still have less in it than its worth.

By "tied up" I mean I hit the starter and it just clunks. I haven't messed with it since I got it to see if I can spin by hand. I was told by the seller that he was driving, oil pressure dropped, started knocking, then quit running. When I got it home I threw a charged battery in it and tried cranking. Turned over probably 15-20 times slow and labored, however tried to fire a couple of times, then "clunk" and that was it.
 






I got a test drive in, but I'm gonna have to take another to confirm, it seems like it might be skipping 3rd gear all together. I rode in a friend of mines 3rd gen and it seems the shift pattern is 1-2-3-4-converter lock-5. So you have what feels like 6 gears. Its hard to tell though because 3 and 4 are pretty close in ratio. If it is skipping 3rd, what's that mean? Its f'ed and needs a total rebuild?
 






I got a test drive in, but I'm gonna have to take another to confirm, it seems like it might be skipping 3rd gear all together. I rode in a friend of mines 3rd gen and it seems the shift pattern is 1-2-3-4-converter lock-5. So you have what feels like 6 gears. Its hard to tell though because 3 and 4 are pretty close in ratio. If it is skipping 3rd, what's that mean? Its f'ed and needs a total rebuild?

How much gas pedal are you giving it?
 






Not a whole lot. Maybe 20-25%. Enough to get moving but not anything crazy. I normally drive pretty easy, with spurts of insanity thrown in from time to time.
 






Yes it needs a full rebuild.
 






Not what I wanted to read haha. What is the difference between a 2wd and 4wd trans? How long you think I can drive it as it is? All the other gears hold fine. No slippage.
 






If it's servo B stuck open (high pressure) I've been driving with mine like that for the past 3000+ miles. 2 to 3 shift is very hard and 3 to 4 shift is a bump.
 


















Auto Enginuity

Your Auto Enginuity scan tool may have the capability to monitor transmission related PIDs such as gear commanded, input shaft speed, intermediate shaft speed, etc. allowing you determine what's going on with the transmission. There are generic PIDs and Ford enhanced PIDs. Auto Enginuity has an option for the Ford enhanced interface which you may not have purchased.
 



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I know I can see some of that stuff. Not sure if I have the Ford enhanced, not sure how to tell either. How can I tell what gear its actually in? I know I can see gear commanded but that's not necessarily what gear its in.
 






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