To replace or repair (all AC parts)...

[geosnooker2000]

That is the question. Whether 'tis nobler in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of OUTRAGEOUS misfortune... if I replace the one part that offends thee, only to have the (what I assume to be) 17 year old compressor blow up a month later and ruin all parts involved.

I mean, seriously, the condition in which I bought this awesome '99 V8 EB 4 years ago leads me to believe this is the original AC system straight off the truck from the Mizzo plant where it was birthed. I checked RockAuto, and all new parts,
Compressor
Both hoses
Evaporator Core
Condenser Core
Variable OT
New O-ring Kit
Accumulator

all adds up to $383.63.
Am I not justified in buying all new parts? If I took it to a shop and tried to get ANYTHING replaced, I'm looking at at least $500, right? Seems to me, I'm SAVING $117 minimum.... These parts on my truck are 17 years old.

Yes, I'm trying to talk myself into it. Does anyone see a reason not to? Love to hear comments.

 

[geosnooker2000]

For what it's worth, the offending part has yet to be identified. I loaded the system with about 2 tablespoons of dye and charged it up with 134, and I can not find anything definitive. splatters from removing the low-side connector shooting down the face of the Evap housing... almost indiscernible. little pin-pricks of dye around the connector to the condenser - as if it is seeping through the pot-metal-looking connector's pours. It has cooled my truck going on 3 days after the full vacuum and full charge, but I don't know how much longer it can take this 95-100 degree days. IOW... it's a slow leak.

 

[chefduane]

I think $500 at a shop is an extremely low estimate. So assuming that you have verified that all new parts will definitely fix whatever issue you are having (would hate for you to swap all that stuff out and still have the same problem), AND assuming that you have the skill, expertise, and time to do the repairs, AND assuming that you have the appropriate tools and supplies for the repairs, AND assuming that the $383 expenditure will not make your family go hungry, I say press on with vigor! My only concern would be that you don't fix the problem. Perhaps some more troubleshooting to find the EXACT cause of the problem? Could be just a seal that was missed? Might could try a bottle of that 'A/C Leak Stop' (or whatever its called) stuff. Worst case you still gotta' do the repair(s), which is what you were planning anyway. But best case is that it works! I admit that I have tried the 'throw parts at it' approach, and to this point, have been luckily successful in resolving what I was trying to fix. Others have not been so lucky. How many miles are on the vehicle? If you do meticulous maintenance and stay on top of everything the 5.0 will probably keep going, and going, and going... And new A/C system would be nice to have!!

PS: I'm in NTX and know the importance of dependable A/C!!

 

[crunchie_frog]

The evaporator core is a common leak point on these and it is hard to see with uv dye unless you get under the vehicle and look at where it drains and even then the dye is diluted with the condensation that drips off. The other common leak points are the hoses, their connecting points and the compressor itself at the front seal and from the case. I have replaced the hose from the accumulator from the compressor to the accumulator, two evaporator cores, a compressor and the accumulator. You will find the condenser sort of a pain to replace and I would not replace this unless you know you have issues there. Compressor, accumulator, evap core and any other leaks is what I would replace/repair. You need the spring lock disconnect tools, a manifold gauge set and good vacuum pump to do this job correctly. Good luck.

 

[geosnooker2000]

Chef,
Thanks for the words of encouragement. My thing is, if I replace everything, there is nothing left to leak. IOW, I know for a fact (I think) that the problem is a leak. I put a vacuum on it, shut it down, and the vacuum was gone in about an hour. Then I vacuumed it again for an hour and emmediatly loaded it with dye and charged it up. I expected to see the leak that night at dark with my black light and glasses, but no dice. And the damn thing still works....

Crunchie,
I do indeed have the tools and the patience and the knowhow to do the repairs. I've done an evap core on my previous 93 explorer sport, so I know what you are talking about with the pita comment. Lol. I'm just thinking 17 year old parts.... might as well change em all out. My fear is, someone is going to tell me that a new Four Seasons compressor might fail before my 17 year old Motorcraft on the truck now will????

 

[Big Z]

My fear is, someone is going to tell me that a new Four Seasons compressor might fail before my 17 year old Motorcraft on the truck now will????

A new FS compressor might fail before your 17y/o Motorcraft.

If it was mine, I would use an electronic leak detector and bubbles (real detector solution, not dish soap). It might very well pay for itself just in this 1 instance. I use an H10. Pick up a used one, use it, sell it.

 

[SoHK_alumni]

Not uncommon for the aluminum a/c evap coil to be the source of very hard to find leaks, fortunately, they're pretty easy to remove/replace if needed.

Can be hard to justify $400 in parts to eliminate a small leak on a 17 year old truck. Personally, I'd inject some UV dye in the thing and have at it a week later with a UV flashlight and goggles. Do be prepared to pull the air box off the firewall to inspect the evap if no other traces of dye can be found, but don't forget to check the a/c condensate drain 1st. As simple as it is, even just checking for an oily spot on a line/hose, joint or component can sometimes pin-point a leak.

A "real" leak detection tool can become a must -- be it electronic, audible, IR, or as mentioned, a bubble solution or UV dye. I've personally had three different tools find three different leaks on the same system, but not the other two leaks (long weekend that!)

If the compressor does blow up, you can always replace the orifice tube and add an in-line filter just before it. Not the perfect solution, but quite a bit less money than a full on replacement of all the components.

Worse, I've seen full new installs FAIL -- worked with a guy on a Expo 5.0 swap in his Ranger -- took 3 tries will all new components to get the A/C to work correctly so I'm very leery of most of the new after market components available.

 

[CDW6212R]

Always begin servicing a newly bought vehicle AC system by changing the o-rings in all connections. Those are the weakest links, normal vibration eventually makes those leak. There are aftermarket locks which firmly hold those quick connect fittings together. Those are worth the money for sure, if you can get them.

 

[geosnooker2000]

Personally, I'd inject some UV dye in the thing and have at it a week later with a UV flashlight and goggles.

As indicated in post 2, I have already loaded about 2 tblsp of dye in the system, but cannot find any legit trace... although I was looking the night I did it, not a week later. And I haven't checked the condensate drain for dye, either. I will do that tonight.

 

[geosnooker2000]

Always begin servicing a newly bought vehicle AC system by changing the o-rings in all connections. Those are the weakest links, normal vibration eventually makes those leak. There are aftermarket locks which firmly hold those quick connect fittings together. Those are worth the money for sure, if you can get them.

I have owned this truck for 4 years now. It's been great so far.

 

[CDW6212R]

You want to know how old all parts are, so for something you bought recently, it's hard to know how well things were taken care of. So it's a learning process as you get used to everything. In time you trust it a lot, four years is good, you know trust just about everything.