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Need Wiring Diagram, Fuse 25 for 97 Sport

HiImElvis

Member
Joined
January 30, 2009
Messages
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City, State
Denver, CO
Year, Model & Trim Level
97 Sport4x4 & 97 XLTV8AWD
Hi all,
I have recently developed an issue with my battery draining down when the truck sits for a few days and after some investigation with a ammeter have found that when the ignition is off and I let the truck sit for an hour or so I still am reading +-0.50 amps (it wobbles a little say 0.47-0.53 amps). This isn't super high, but will drain the battery to the point the truck won't start given about a week.

What I discovered is that if I pull Fuse #25 from behind the driver's door fuse panel (which my owner's manual lists as for the speedometer and GEM) the current draw is reduced to a much more realistic 0.01 or 0.02 amps.

Do any of you have a wiring diagram that shows the circuit protected by Fuse 25 in a 1997 Explorer Sport?

Thanks
 



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GEM module

I don't know if our rigs are affected by the same problem, but I do know the GEM modules go in the full size trucks. Water leaks ring a bell. If it's corroding inside, the problem could be parasitic loss. Same thing will happen to a dirty battery after a long enough time. Hopefully this will help.
 






yes your draw is too high... search and you will likely find a lot of posts with similar problems and likely areas to look for.
 












Battery Drain With Key Off

Okay so here's a quick update...
I took this into a local shop and they confirmed what I already knew, it was the GEM circuit causing the drain. They suggested a new GEM but they aren't available any more so I went and got one from the junkyard. It has the exact same part number on it as the one in my truck, plugged it in, exact same current draw situation when the key is off...

Now the interesting part. Since I had to break down and take out the radio and remove the dash bezel I figured I'd poke around a bit and see what I could find. Of the 4 GEM connectors there are only 2 that have grounds and 1 that actually has a 12V supply. I verified that I do indeed have continuity at both of the grounds (in the topmost connector and the bottom connector). Obviously, since the power to the GEM comes in at the bottom connector, the only way I'll see the current draw is with the bottom plugged in. I tried plugging in ONLY the bottom connector (to both orignal and J/Y GEMs) and still have a current draw. However with ONLY the bottom connector plugged in, I can hear a relay clicking and clicking and clicking at regular intervals.

Next I went plucking away at the relays just above the driver's right foot (there's a little box of them there). It ended up being the 2n'd relay from the bottom on the right side (most toward the rear of the truck side) that was doing the clicking. Pulling it out dimishes the current draw but does not completely eliminate it. Not knowing what the relay was for or having a diagram available to tell me, I plugged the GEM back in (all 4 connectors) re-connected the battery and started the truck. Everything seems to work except the 4x4 system. The lights flash when I start it then go out, and switching the 4x4 system does nothing.

Ahh, 4x4 system must somehow be the culprit right? So I got under the truck and disconnected the big connector that goes to the shift motor on the transfer case, but this didn't kill the current draw either, it had no effect.

At this point I'm totally stumped (as I know the mechanic is as well). I really really hate to have to take this to Ford, as I doubt they'll have much more success than I have but I'll bet they start throwing parts at it left and right.

Any thoughts?
 






it is most likely that you pulled the battery saver relay. As you have been doing, check the current draw before and after the relay has been pulled. You will never get rid of the current draw totally as the gem needs some some of the time. Anyways, the battery saver gets its ground from the GEM to activate and also drop. The relay should operate for a while... to allow certain systems to function BUT it should eventually drop ... saving your battery. IF it doesn't, that's your problem. Most likely a ground that is remaining for what ever reason... you need to find that out.
 






Driver Footwell Relays in 1997

So, does anybody have a diagram or listing of the relays in the driver footwell (the little black box just below the dash, above your foot) for a 1997? I saw a thread with photos for a 1999 model (in Europe I believe) and my 97 looks different.

The thread below has the correct Pin-Outs for the GEM. I have tested the grounds. All of them maintain continuity (all of them are always grounded) truck on or off (this is testing at the plug, removed from GEM). I have no idea if the GEM is supposed to make or break connections with grounds internally, it literally is a black box.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=270218&highlight=GEM+wiring+diagram

I'm thinking that there's possibly a stuck relay. I MAY have pulled the battery saver, but have no way to know for sure because I don't know what is what under there. I know I did indeed pull the battery saver Maxi-Fuse in the power dist. box under the hood, that gets rid of about 1/2 my current draw but I still draw 100+mA which is about 3-4 times higher than "normal". Pulling the clicking relay accomplishes the same feat, so like I said, it MAY be the battery saver... I also replaced the "clicking" relay with some spare relays I picked up while at the junkyard (same part number on them, and they fit) both spares clicked just like my original one did. IF that is the battery saver relay, I don't think it's the problem, but I'm not sure it even is since when it's pulled the 4x4 system doesn't work?

Soo, if anyone has a diagram of the driver footwell relays (what is what) on a 97 I would appreciate it if you could pass it along.

Thanks!
 






the 4w thing is a problem with loss of power going to circuits therein .....Because you pulled the battery saver relay. As I indicated, IF your battery saver (possibly the accessory delay relay... both are in the same module) relay stays active for any long length of time (after your key is off), THAT is your problem... it is supposed to drop after a time to save your battery... that's your symptom... dead battery / continual draw.

The relay isn't stuck cause you hear it clicking...its getting a ground on the operating coil causing the relay to pull up and stay active AND then causing all subtending circuits to draw current. The level of current draw ISN"T great (ie. .5 amps) when your truck is running (actually probably a lot higher then for all circuits) BUT as you have found in KEY OFF, it is not "healthy" for your battery.

as for the GEM question on grounds... the grounds on the plugs are always there... that's the "source" for what the GEM uses to "send" to the various "control" relays in your system.... so yes the GEM switches them internally.

further.. if you read up on features of your truck, you will note that some have "limited life" with key off (eg. windows, interior lights). These get "activated" by various means (key on, key off, door open, etc). To help in your effort and timings, you need to NOT ACTIVATE those things. The most common one is "OPEN DOOR". You might consider disconnection the door switch (inside the drivers door panel area) to prevent this from "notifying" the GEM and starting things happening during your testing along with NOT turning your key on/off... to perhaps speed things up instead of having to wait around for circuits / GEM to "quiet down".
 






Finally Fixed!

Okay all,
Thanks for the help with this one. I finally got it fixed. I got a second GEM from the junkyard from another 97 that has the exact same p/n as the original one in my truck.

It appears that I just got impatient waiting for the new GEM to "put the truck to sleep" when I did my initial testing. Frustrated, I decided to hook up my battery charger on the 2amp setting last night to continually replace the charge the drain was stealing, and just let it sit for as long as it took, or at least until my meter auto-shutoff kicked in. So I had the ammeter closing the circuit between the - post of the battery and the - terminal of the explorer, showing about 1.5 amps (I left the light under the hood plugged in so 1) I could read the meter 2) it would be really really obvious if the battery saver was working correctly or not. I had plugged in all the connectors of the new GEM and used a screwdriver to push all the little latch mechanisms into place so I could fool the truck into thinking the door was closed to try to minimize amp draw since I had the battery charger on the 2amp rate, plus I figured my meter would appreciate less current flowing through it.

So it took over an hour but the battery saver finally did indeed kick in, bringing the reading on the ammeter to 0.000. I re-tested a couple more times just to be sure and got the same results.

GEM was the problem, something wonky going on in that black box, allowing something to keep drawing power once the truck was shut off. Exactly what I don't know, but the fix would have been replace GEM regardless of identifying exactly which pin was being "left on" by the GEM.
 












I was hoping to find a straightforward fix to the same problem here, but need further help. Same Explorer (1997 XLT 4x4 etc). Fuse 25 when pulled drops battery draw from 3.7 amps (doors closed and battery saver asleep) to .217 amps. GEM replaced with new unit brought in at considerable cost from dealer in Kansas City who had a NOS unit on the shelf. Speedometer and everything there dash related is working normally. No burned fuses have been found. Cannot decide where to go from here. Put in a neg post battery disconnect to save battery when vehicle is not in use.
 






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