2007 Mountaineer Brake Pad Replacement | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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2007 Mountaineer Brake Pad Replacement

il66pony

Active Member
Joined
October 8, 2015
Messages
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City, State
Hawthorn Woods, Illinois
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Mountaineer
I have a 2007 Mountaineer with 85k miles and it finally needs brake work. It will also need tires before the snow flies. I am thinking of getting a new 2019 or 2020 Explorer or a Kia Telluride. I want to see what the 2020 Explorer drives like before doing anything.

I just want to replace only the pads now as the front are paper thin. I have replaced pads on a variety of cars over the years but never on an SUV. How straight forward is it? Any special tools needed? Any hints?

Thanks.

Dave
 



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45 min job for the fronts, super simple. Just makes sure you clean and lube the pins.
 






45 min job for the fronts, super simple. Just makes sure you clean and lube the pins.
Thanks. I found an excellent video from 1A Auto. Does look pretty simple. As I will be doing it on the garage floor, what are the best jacking points? Do you think it is okay to skip replacing the rotors?
 






look in your manual for the jacking points they are marked by diamonds cutouts in the frame. I put my stands at the diamonds and I jack it up just to the rear of that and because its a full frame vehicle you can put the jack just about anywhere. With replacing the rotors at a minimum I would have them turned if they are in good shape or I would get new ones. most oreillys auto parts will turn rotors and both oreillys and advance auto parts have new front rotors starting at $60 per rotor.

If you do remove the rotors you will have to remove the factory clips that hold them on I can't remember how I removed mine but it wasn't that hard. You may also need a hammer to get the rotor loose if you are going to resurface them the hit the hat of the rotor between the studs and not the edge or backside.
 






The rotors are so inexpensive these days, especially for our cars I used to replace them with the pads.
Now, I only change them if I get vibration when breaking.
I've had a good luck using standard pads from Autozone or Advance, as long as they were "Gold" line.
I used the cheap ones and they did the job, I do not believe the breaking distance was any longer but the dust on rims was visible after just few miles.
 






The dust is pad material...
 






I know :)
That's what I meant. The cheap ones are soft and wear down quickly and dust the rims.
 






Its no so much that they wear down quickly, its the material they are made of.
Semi-metalic pads make a LOT of dust.
Organic pads make much less dust, but wear quicker.
ceramic pads make very little dust and have a long life.
Even super cheap ceramic pads wont create a lot of dust, unless they are actually semi-metalic pads misrepresented as ceramic.
 






I just replaced tha front pads on my '10 Eddie Bauer. When I get the time later this week I'll do the rear. It was an easy enough job. I had to figure it out as I went. I assume that you know that you need a stiff wire to fashion a hanger to hang the caliper so you don't stress the brake line. Also, two C clamps are all that was needed to compress the pistons back into the cylinders. Two, because it's a dual cylinder caliper. I put ceramic pads on and didn't replace the rotors. In 30 years of DIY car maintenance I have only replaced a rotor once. Because it was warped.
If you have done disc brake pads before the job won't be surprising to you.
 






I did the fronts and also the rears in two separate sessions. Very easy for both. The fronts were a little different from ones I have done in the past as it has the caliper separate from the bracket that actually holds the pads. The rears are more traditional with the pads in the caliper. In some ways, it makes it easier. I did learn one thing on the rears. The pads are different between left and right side due to the "ears" that hold them int the caliper. Make sure you get the pads with the ears in the same orientation as original

I did not replace the rotors as braking has been smooth with no pulsating. They are original and have 85k miles on them. So, all is good!
 






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