Search results

I probably should have mentioned that I investigated it to the point where I knew it was the lifter because I tore it down and put a new OEM timing chain, tensioner, and found a rocker and push rod with wear on them (replaced with OEM). The tick remained.

My issue on my old 4.0 OHV was a lifter not pumping up on a reman engine I got from AutoZone. I never resolved anything on it and instead did a 5.0 swap. I put that 4.0 in a mountaineer and sold it to a person I knew who drove it for 3 more years and the tick never affected it.

@vroomzoomboom, it sounds like all the same issues I had with mine. I never could get mine to sit perfectly flush in the back so I just live with it now. The main issue is that the hood is much thicker than the stock steel hood and it really affects fitment at the firewall.

He did the same thing on mine. I cut the oval holes on the inside to match the outside.

I specifically had him make mine functional. Mine has 2 oval holes side by side through the inner and outer fiberglass where you have it circled. He forgot to put a grating over the holes to keep critters out so I had to add that. Believe it or not, he just uses gutter guard grating and glues...

Oh boy, modifying already! I thought about that but didn't want to compromise the rigidity of it.

I can't wait to see how it turns out! That hood looks very familiar ;) Did Rob remember to put the screens in the rear of the cowl?

I understand what you mean, but at 70mph I could tell a difference from when I engaged 4x4 (brown wire mod) when it had the 4.10 in the front. Now with the 4.11 in the front I can't tell when it is engaged or not. With the 4.10 the vibration/ harmonics would change between having 4x4 engaged...

We need to change that and both make a trip to a car show together!

Thank you! I did count the pinion and ring gear teeth between the Dana 4.10 that it had in it vs. this 4.11 and there is a difference. The pinion went from 10 teeth to 9 teeth; the ring changed from 41 teeth on the 4.10 to 37 teeth on the 4.11. I noticed a difference in that there are less...

I made an amateur mistake and over tightened the pinion nut on the front differential the last time I took it apart. The result was destroyed pinion bearings and contaminated the rest of the bearings in the axle. So.. I rebuilt the whole front axle and changed the gear ratio from 4:10 to 4:11...

It sure has been an odd winter so far. I know it is early but very mild compared to the past several.

Keep at it Tim; you'll get it!

I'm still watching a rooting for you Tim. I need you to get back to AFN next year so I have more motivation to go as well. You are doing all the things I know to check. Last 2 things are compression and fuel.

LOL. we had snow flurries he yesterday after it was 83 degrees on Saturday! On the bright side, it's only a 60% chance.. ;)

That's wild! Hopefully that is the last of it for the season..

Is there any interest in the group going to AFN this year? I couldn't find where anyone talked about it last year.

Any updates Tim? I am always looking for the latest!

Tim, I'm sorry but the white flag GIF made me laugh out loud... This is a really big modification you are doing and clearly takes a tremendous amount of patience.. As aggravating as this is for you, you will get it going 1 way or another. You've been through too much together to throw in the...

Did you get it installed yet??

Nice work Tim! It sounds like you are getting it dialed in pretty good now!

Coming along! I hope the coolant leak is something simple for you.

The geometry is different between the transfer case and the front differential once you put the larger 4406 in. I was never able to make the front driveshaft out of the F150 work without vibration. I used a 91 - 96 Explorer front drive shaft with a flange conversion yoke in the double cardan...

Cool. Not a bad on idea on looking for the oil leaks. Easest way to figure out what the balance is, is to remove the balancer from Don's engine and see what the weight is on it.

What valve cover gaskets are on it? And are the valve cover bolts tight?