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OK, I've had several Explorers and Mountaineers (between 1997-2001 models) but last year upgraded (ha ha) to a 2003 Lincoln Aviator. It now has 180,000 miles... I've changed water-pump, power steering pump, all the idler pulleys etc, wheel bearings, oil changes - all the stuff you'd expect in a...

OK, I've had several Explorers and Mountaineers (between 1997-2001 models) but last year upgraded (ha ha) to a 2003 Lincoln Aviator. It now has 180,000 miles... I've changed water-pump, power steering pump, all the idler pulleys etc, wheel bearings, oil changes - all the stuff you'd expect in a...

OK, I've had several Explorers and Mountaineers (between 1997-2001 models) but last year upgraded (ha ha) to a 2003 Lincoln Aviator. It now has 180,000 miles... I've changed water-pump, power steering pump, all the idler pulleys etc, wheel bearings, oil changes - all the stuff you'd expect in a...

OK - all other issues sorted. (previous threads for fuel pump etc etc..) Won't start when hot. No starter, no click, nothing. Battery all good, all lights, dash etc. It's not even when the engine is warm - if it's sat on the driveway in the sun for a while, no start. Starts great first time at...

More info.... according to http://www.blee1099.com/pats_job_aid.pdf - my model doesn't have a starter interrupt - so I guess it's not a PATS issue - what else can I try? I've also just noticed, that even with the key in the 'on' position, I can't shift into Neutral to try and start her that...

2000 Ford Explorer LTD, V6 SOHC - replaced starter and solenoid, new battery, new fuel pump.....and she starts 95% of the time and runs like a dream. I bought this car used, with one key and remote locking fob. On occasion however, turn the key, all lights etc work fine, but no starter. Hear the...

OK - optimism is a dangerous thing - car ran fine all day; came home fine. On a cold start this evening, cranked for a while with no start - pressed gas pedal to help it start, and noticed that battery sounded very 'low/slow/sluggish' while gas pedal was pressed; on releasing gas pedal, turnover...

Updates - changed fuel filter, and so far, she hasn't sputtered to a halt - but as the wife pointed out, 8 days was the longest time the car had worked successfully without acting up, so we'll see.... As for the coolant leak - it seemed that one of the heater hoses going to the firewall was...

Further info - (it did it again yesterday, and took ages to nurse it home..) I've now noticed that the 'kickdown' doesn't work - ie - put your foot down to pass something - no response - and it feels like I'm pulling a heavy trailer - acceleration has to be coaxed, and it will slowly get to...

Thanks guys - according to the ford website quoted, my VIN doesn't qualify for the recall, but will endeavour to get them to change it out for me - thanks again!

On top of the master cylinder, furthest away end from the brake fluid reservoir, there is a device, with an electrical connector. Cruise switch for the brakes? It appears there is a slight brake fluid leak from it... is this something that can be replaced? Probably involving the need to bleed...

and as for the radiator/thermostat idea (for the coolant slow leak issue) - I know I can handle all that (changed out the radiator in my old '97 5L V8 mountaineer) - but I can't actually see where it's leaking from this time - didn't know if it was a common issue that was known.... all good...

all great responses guys - will be trying these this coming weekend - fuel filter seems the cheapest and easiest place to start... (with the appropriate fuel line tool of course!!)

Any other ideas folks? Getting very frustrating and stressful - I love everything else about the car....

No CEL... No check engine light, no overheat, all gauges good..... not sure I know what kind of noise the fuel pump should be making.... maybe I've just got used to it....

2000 Explorer LTD, V6 SOHC... OK, many posts about this issue, maybe mine is slightly different.. Car starts, runs, great. Once at normal running temp, on occasion, semi-frequently, with no pattern as to time, distance travelled, weather, outside temperature, or any parameter I can identify...

An amateur changed out my radiator, and kinked the upper transmission oil cooler line, now leaking transmission fluid. On my '97 mountaineer, these lines are pre-shaped metal tubes, with screw-in fittings that connect to the radiator. I've seen mention of flexible rubber hoses (that are...

Glad I found this forum - spent the $12 for a new blend door - guess I got lucky, but I didn't even need to remove the actuator, and didn't need to remove the glove box to get to the top/side of the plenum. FYI - a box-cutter/craft knife (Stanley knife for the European readers) makes a much...