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I wonder if you have a faulty wheel speed sensor. Or maybe wiring going to the sensor. Usually when they go bad the ABS module can tell and just disables all of it, but maybe this is an edge case? If you have an OBD2 reader, try logging all four wheel speeds. If you can get the car to behave as...

Leave it to a dealership to skip any diagnostics and just start throwing parts at the problem. It could be a few different things, like they said. I'd suspect a wheel speed sensor or something similar making the car think it has lost traction. Do you get any stability control or ABS lights or...

That's super cool of them to reprogram your tuner for free. At least it's a little less to worry about when dealing with the stress of everything else.

I think it's behind the passenger kick panel. I test drove a few Explorers before buying mine, and they all had this whine. All of them from the amp hidden in the kick panel.

The lane keeping system uses the camera that is between the windshield and your rear view mirror in the grille. The adaptive cruise control uses a radar that is behind the bumper cover, more to the driver side. Edit: Looking at your first photo I don't see the front camera. I'm familiar with...

As someone who hasn't encountered this yet, but seems to have every other thing wrong with their vehicle, I'd be satisfied with an extended warranty to cover just this (and any collateral damage for unexpected failure). A preemptive replacement on their dime wouldn't be half bad, either...

You wouldn't happen to know if this is going to go from faint clicking to full failure in the matter of an afternoon? I'm not overly concerned about the unit needing to be replaced, but I'd rather not be 1,000 miles from home and suddenly I have no power steering.

Oh, lovely. That extended warranty is gonna get a workout for sure... This isn't the first major repair. I'm barely over 36,000 miles now. Yeesh.

I've noticed that when I'm in a drive thru I can hear a clicking when I'm turning the steering wheel. It isn't when I'm making a turn, but rather as I turn the wheel itself. This leads me to believe it isn't a wheel bearing, but rather something in the steering rack. It is only audible when the...

And even if the dealership says the item is covered, if it is caused by corrosion that is NOT covered under the ESP. I found this out when my IA door handle stopped working. They tore everything apart and found the main body harness was corroded at the connector under the hood. The corrosion...

You're right about it missing hardware. The hardware equipped on the 5th gen Explorer is not accurate at close range. So when the vehicle gets below a certain speed it will fully disengage. My brother's '18 Lincoln MKZ has Stop and Go, so while you could definitely retro fit the hardware, I...

I meant $1,000 in body work if it'll require welding and paint. They just slung some goop on it while getting the main harness replaced under GCCT.

This was purchased new from a dealership. The repair was done recently. I look forward to another $1,000 in body work due to shoddy work at the factory...

Only every day for 4 years... So I'm looking at this goop repair job lasting, what, 12 months?

I don't have a shot with the hatch open, but I can provide one tomorrow. These are the breaks in the metal I'm talking about. I can only assume they'll continue to get worse over time. I'll have to open the hatch to see what looks like non-metal something that was painted over. Maybe it's...

About 2 months ago the dealership repaired a leak in the rear cargo area. I got to looking at it the other day and noticed that the body has completely cracked open where the metal is shaped to accommodate where the top of the hatch sits. There is also what looks like a paste that has hardened...

This is purely a guess, but my money is on the windshield having been replaced and that's some cheap adhesive dripping.

Have you checked your motor mounts? One could be worn out.

The hood needs to be replaced. The corrosion and failure of the paint to adhere is from improper prep at the factory. There will be nothing they can do to repair it short of replacement or stripping it to the bare metal and prepping it. They don't do the latter.

I've never had it trigger when it was too late to react. I don't know the exact numbers, but I do know that my 2018 should have the same system as yours. I've only had it activate once when I needed it. It was a rainy night and a car had stopped in the middle of the road. I was driving 50mph and...

I've had mine go off when I was driving on the highway and mashed the gas hard enough for the vehicle to downshift and accelerate hard. You might see if you can get it to trigger that way. As Peter mentioned, it does trigger when people are making turns if you don't at least let off the gas...

Sorry to necro the thread, but I finally got this resolved after a few years of back-and-forth with the dealership. It turns out that the issue is related to the main wiring harness that is inside the vehicle. The dealership removed EVERYTHING from the interior of the vehicle to replace the...

That front tire looks super close to the fender. Did he ever follow up on this? It looks like hitting a big enough bump will smash that tire right into the liner. I'd also be concerned about the tire hitting something when turning the wheel to the stop.

Aren't our motors GDI? I haven't looked closely, as I'm still at around 30k. I did my Focus, which is GDI, and it was just like any other plug swap (minus cables). I inspected the coil pack for cracks and just put them back on.

You will likely need a new hood entirely. The peeling is from lack of proper preparation of the aluminum at the factory. Stripping and repainting won't help unless they have what's needed to properly prep it. You should check with your dealer to see if they'll cover it since it is a very well...