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Considering he has coolant in the oil, it's very likely the water pump bearing failed in his case, instead of the seal (that typically leaks to the weep hole). Play in the bearing is likely causing inconsistent tension in the chain, which throws off the timing... thus the camshaft out of...

A pint of coolant in the engine, and no milkshake. Drove about 5 minutes… I’d get a second opinion from an independent shop. Of course, a dealership is going to suggest an entire engine replacement, it’s a dealership…

Have you checked the price of used 3 row suvs lately? It totally worthy it…

When people are paying 5K over sticker for a new 3 row suv, 3K doesn't seem like a bad idea when you may get a few years out of your current unit. Engines are going close to 8- 10K and then you still got a vehicle with 100K+ on the other wearable parts.

Damaging doesn't mean it can't last another 80k+ miles.... sure it shortens a bearings life, but a bearing can last 350k+ on this engine. It's worth the chance when comparable new SUVs now cost over 50k easy. A water pump and a few oil changes are 2-3K....tops. You'd be a fool not to...

So this is false and has been proven so many times. While coolant in the crankcase will eventually destroy the engine, there have been many cases where a engine gets a new water pump and the oil changed multiple times after the repair and the engine provides years of additional service. I would...

Other then the water pump design, these are robust, reliable engines in the NA form. Yes adding a turbo (to any engine) will add expense and decrease reliability, but that is common sense.. The water pump replacement is not much different then timing belt replacements (which often include water...

I suspect your mechanic is right about the water pump. Mine started losing coolant, but nothing in the oil. I noticed water/coolant on the alternator that had leaked from the weep hole. A simple pressure test will settle that for you. It's not a bad idea to change the timing chain and guides if...

You've got more then enough power, that isn't an issue. It's the weight on a unibody platform that's pushing it. It's doable in a pinch, but if I was planning to tow with this toyhauler regularly I'd look for a body on frame 1/2 ton truck to properly handle the weight.

Yes, the current market for cars is crazy. Now more then ever, the money spent on repairs is worth the investment. I think you'll do well, since your all highway miles and you have been taking care of things.

The 3.5L is a great motor. With the exception of the water pump (which is pricey to repair, but not much more then a timing belt replacement), it reliability provides plentiful power and efficiency for a large suv. You've gotten a good amount of miles and are likely to get more...but after 200K...

Seems like the 3.5L N/A is great other then the water pump. The ecoboost 3.5 is fun, but like most hot rod type engines you need to pay to play. The turbo 4 is probably working pretty hard to move this large vehicle and I would be wary. Honestly, I love my 3.5l n/a and other then the water pump...

Thanks for the write up! I had my 16 in at the dealer for a warranty repair and was quoted $550 for the new heater pad. I think i'll try this myself! One more question... does replacing the the cusion, also make heat pad for your back work. Neither of mine are working.

Any update to how this repair went? I seems to have the same issue!

With 178K I would comfortably say you got your money's worth. At this point, imo, it's likely not worth investing that much in maintenance. I would drive that vehicle as long as I could get away with repairs/maintenance that are less then around $500. Tires maybe being the exception. Otherwise...

Does ford cover PTU leaks and failures as part of the powertrain warranty? I have the option to extended my 100K coverage to 148K and I think it might be worth the $1000 asking price! Not to mention most transmission failures and oil leaks it might cover.

Lemon law...lol, no offence but you got almost 100 thousand miles. I'd take the car to an independent machinic to have it repaired. Do you drive aggressively? Two transmission issues in less the 100K is pretty rare.

Looks like condensation from the a/c running. No worries

It would do it, but it should be a last resort.......like if you had a truck to pull it but it was broken down. This set up would be pretty unstable IMO, lots of sway and poor braking. I would imagine the power would be fine, with 290hp your close to the power in 1/2 ton trucks from a few years...

I don't see the leak. Are you sure you not making something out of nothing? I'm pretty picky about my stuff, but you seem dead set on not being happy in this situation.....

I don't deny the stupidity of the design, but if the engines water pump could fit in the vehicle application externally, I can imagine any reason for them to put it internally. If the space actually existed to relocate the pump externally, why redesign the water pump to a dual sprocket set-up...

I don't deny the stupidity of the design, but if the engines water pump could fit in the vehicle application externally, I can imagine any reason for them to put it internally. If the space actually existed to relocate the pump externally, why redesign the water pump to a dual sprocket set-up...

If i'm not mistaken, the trucks water pumps were never internal. The internal design was done to fit the engine into front wheel drive platforms.

It's sad and I feel for non-car people who buy a 3.5 and a expect normal maintenance/breakdown experience. The only people with a fighting chance are automotive minded people (like us) that are interested in their vehicle and pay more attention then the normal person. I've always been much more...

Like another poster mentioned, look at the live data while driving the vehicle. When the problem occurs, the live data will tell you where the misfire is occurring. This should help narrow things down.