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HOLD IT!!!! The black product is an "undercoating", not a rust preventative or inhibitor or proofing! Actually the term "rust proofing" is in correct, but that is another issue. Rust Preventatives or Inhibitors are a "tan" color and not a heavy spray. You can get the same product, (which...

Thought some more about your condition May have been that at the dealership, they used an unapproved "fallout" remover, which is nothing but oxalic acid, to remove industrial fallout or ferrous particles before you got the vehicle. If you did not purchase it new, it may have been done by an...

Surface primers over bare metal, NOT! If you look at how the factories paint a vehicle, you will see that there is a special coating below the surface primers, called the "e-coat". The reason for this is that surface primers, base coats and clearcoats are "porus" and moisture will penetrate...

Try visiting www.paintucation.com It is a site that deals with all the issues you are asking about. Kevin, the host, is a painter, and it is visited by many who are either professional or part time automotive painters. Hope this helps. Ketch

ETR-II Kit The ETR-II kit at www.autoint.com under BodyShop Products section. Used by Hyundia and Mazda and Ford is having private labeled after first of the year. This system holds up for three years plus and is not a dressing, goes on with sponges. It is like a base coat/clear coat...

Have someone with an electronic paint thickness gauge measure the total paint film build on the hood, top, tops of the bed rails and compare the readings. If the affected area shows more than a mil more than the rest of the areas, then there was some minor refinish work, (repainting) done...

Did you buy it new or used? Did you get it new or buy it used? There could be several reasons that you are having this concern. If you can find some one with an electronic paint thickness gauge, take some mil readings. The total film build on a 98 should range on the top surfaces from...

What does Ford say about this? Ford put out a Technical Service Bulletin to their dealers a few years back regarding the dealing with surface contaminates, etc. Now, we are all grown ups here, and will do what ever we wish to do, but perhaps some may wish to read what Ford has to say about...

Paint concern After reading through the entire thread, I have to believe the concern is ferrous oxides on and in the clearcoat. IE, rail/brake dust, small ferrous metal particles. One way to find out, go to www.autoint.com and explore the Tech Tips section for the concern, there are...

Xylene-carcenigenic Keep in mind that the solvent is a clorinated and is listed as a carcenigenic and toxin. Would use a product that does not contain this component, there are many grease/tar/glue removers that do not have it in the product. Those without it just work a little slower...

Sure I don't do the actual, since I am computer dumb. We will put any automotive related forum, etc on our links for free. All you have to do is contact my gal who runs the website, She will put you on. If you want us linked on yours, tell her and she will handle. If I were to attempt...

Here are some of the reasons First is the shop. Are they using the latest in technology regarding the equip. booth, etc, do they have an inhouse color match system, do they send their people to I-Car and paint supplier training schools, etc. A base number to work from is hard to determine...

Not real metal chrome, The grill is plastic that has a special chrome plating. It can be sanded and painted by a knowledgable bodyshop to what ever color the owner wishes. Ketch :cool:

Yes, when using the same color, it is not necessary to reshoot the door jams, trunk and hood jams. Changing color requires quite a bit of additional labor. That is the reason for a quality color change job being more expensive, plus those that "really" do a job correct, take the time to...

Go right ahead, for as the dealers who bought into the program found out quickly, the product was junk, didn't hold up 6 months. It is not possible to make Teflon bond to paint in the first place. I would use a polymer product though, not a true wax. Waxes are fine, if you rewax every...

It's me! Some of the boys up north asked me to check in here everyonce in a while. Ketch :cool:

Quality=I-CAR shops The shops that display the I-CAR symbol are your always your best bet for someone to refinish your vehicle. This is the non-profit group which provides the training to the collosion repair industry. The shops have the expertise and dedication to do the job right, (of...

Clay holder for orbital In addition to making car care chemicals for Ford and others, we have 6 shops which do dealer work and are always, as yourself, checking the latest, so called greatest, to see if they work. In a word regarding this gadjet---NO!--- don't waste your money, more time is...

OK, now give up your car! Not only that, but do away with all cattle and cows who emit tons of methane gas each day, no more electricity, no resturants may cook food and emit carbon particles, we must elimenate all plastic, steel and aluminum plants, etc etc, etc. The world should also stop...

Just put up the URL to see Ford's process for this There is another thread regarding this. I just put up the URL that leads you to the Ford Tech Tips for this and other issues. If you wish to learn more about how acid rain, industrial fallout, ferrous oxides,(rail/brake dust) affect your...

Ford Motor Co Tech Tips for this Ford issues a Tech Tips to all dealers on this subject. Unfortunately, it is normally only available for reading on their dealer only website. However, as a supplier to Ford, we are allowed to have tech tips from the site on our site. To see what Ford...

If too shiny If you are bothered by it be too shiny and reflecting back into your eyes. just wipe it on and wait 10 to 15 seconds under normal temperature conditions and wipe immediately with a dry towel. There is very little difference in say 303, Zanio, ours, Mequiar's, Mothers, etc that...

Just no petroluem distillates in the dressing 303, Zanio, AmorAll, any that are a PDMS (polydimethalsiloxane) resin. These are a white, milky color. The only real difference is the percentage of the resin. Some say "provides UV protection" stops/reduces harmful UV damage", the truth is what...

"Bubbling" rust on the outer surfaces is due to the "e-coat" being broken down to bare metal. The use of "acid etch" primers replaces the "e-coat", which is what stops moisture from reaching the metal. The paint system around the gas cap was nicked down to bare metal, that is why the area...

Undercoating-rust inhibitors We have provided both of these materials to the automotive world since 1980. The DaimlerChrysler product, Master Shield is made by us for them and has been since 1981. It is constantly tested for preformance and to insure compatibility with new manufacturing...