How to: - Cold air in glove box -OR- No air flow from vents on Max AC - Here's a workaround | Page 3 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to: Cold air in glove box -OR- No air flow from vents on Max AC - Here's a workaround

Prefix for threads which are instructional.
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Exproblems, you're welcome, I'm glad you got it out. I had the same experience, the right side opened up more so I pulled it out the same way you described. Couldn't get my big hands in there too well, thankfully a pair of needle nose yanked it right out.
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Thanks for your help Mdisalvo. I looked over the air recirc door after I got it out, and it looks like the end of it where the Actuator arm goes into the door is slightly rounded off and worn. The plastic end of the door where the actuator arm goes in is also tapered on an angle. Don't know if this is what caused it to fail and fall down in the air box or if it was the actuator arm itself that went bad. One thing I do know is, Ford should have recalled this cheap and crappy design they made since so many people have this same problem. Same thing for the lousy Blend Door Actuators they made. I'm not going to repair and reinstall this air door, I don't need it living in the Buffalo area.
 



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I too have used this diagram to repair the faulty door and works great. Now i have another question, just in the last month or so i've noticed that the door that had fallen down inside the box is now swaying back and forth when i either accelerate or hit the brakes, it goes back and forth and i can hear it very clearly, what have i done wrong or has something come loose with my repair?
Thank you all.
 






Mr. Curtis, Thank you for your time and effort in putting this info and pics for us who are challenged in this area.
I was in town with my wife yesterday (shes 7 months pregnant). We got done with shopping and it was 70 outside but really warm on the inside of ex. It took quite awhile to cool her off.
So i thought to myself, we live in south ga, where in gets really hot and expecting a baby. So i searched and found your post and fixed it. thank you so much. would not have attempted with out the pics.
I did not attempt closing the outside air because i dont have a clue what to do, if you could provide some pics it would be greatly appreciate it.
 






Mr. Curtis, Thank you for your time and effort in putting this info and pics for us who are challenged in this area.
I was in town with my wife yesterday (shes 7 months pregnant). We got done with shopping and it was 70 outside but really warm on the inside of ex. It took quite awhile to cool her off.
So i thought to myself, we live in south ga, where in gets really hot and expecting a baby. So i searched and found your post and fixed it. thank you so much. would not have attempted with out the pics.
I did not attempt closing the outside air because i dont have a clue what to do, if you could provide some pics it would be greatly appreciate it.

I don't have any pix of blocking the air off outside...But its not difficult.
Pop the passenger wiper arm off.
Pop the cowl grill off (its just snapped on but requires a good pull)
Under that you'll see a triangular shaped cover thats sealed in place, you can pry it off carefully so you don't damage it.

Here's where you get your wife as she hopefully has smaller arms than you:D
I used a quality clear packing tape to seal up the opening that pulls in outside air. The opening is inside up under the bottom of the windshield.
You should be able to cover 80-90% of it, or more depending how far you can get a hand in there.

I used a few dabs of black silicone to stick the triangular shaped cover back in place. Snap the cowl grill back in, and install the wiper arm. Done!:thumbsup:
 






Thanks to this posting, I was able to "fix" my problem. Also had the broken door, laying on top of the blower. But my main problem was the cold air blowing in from outside. I removed the recirc. door as described here. Then, rather than covering the hole under the windshield to block off the outside air, I did what someone recommended on another post. I covered that grid above the blower with duct tape. Now I still have fresh air coming in, but it is directed into the HVAC system rather than a bunch of it coming into the cabin before being heated. I won't have the Max AC option, but here in PA, I'd rather have warm air. It's not a perfect fix, but it didn't cost me a thing.
 






Bringing it back up.

Just finshed taking my door out...and everything went as planned...now 1 setting is almost like MAX before and MAX actually moves my clothes around now lol.

Didnt do the tape under windshield yet....but i seriously can live with it like this....we dont get much winter here and Louisiana...just unbareable heat and humidity.

I didnt ride around yet....so hopefully i didnt pinch any hoses and have too go back in.

Oh and idk bout any others...but i had too undo 5 8mm bolts....2 front, 1 pass side and 2 drivers side.....one shown in pic and the one thats bolted to the support from underneath right behind it.

The pieces wouldnt pry on that side enough til i did that.

But amazing right up, you just made my SUMMER lol
 






Recirc Door

A lot of times this problem is mistakenly called a blend door problem. That's not the case here. A blend door does exactly that, blends warm and cold air depending on the temperature selected on the heater controls, that's in another part of the system

This part is called "recirc door duct" - or - "Air Inlet Duct"
This duct closes outside air when you select Max AC and causes the blower motor to sound louder

AirDuct0001.jpg
AirDuct0002.jpg


My Problem
========
What I noticed is that when on Max AC, there is no change in aiflow/blower noise from regular AC. And the blower seems too loud for the amount of air coming out of the vents

If you look where the blower motor is in the 3rd gens, its really easy to get to. Its under the passenger side dash. Three 8mm bolts + 1 holding the wiring will let it drop out.

IMG_8188.jpg


Lean in with a light and look up, you'll see a mesh that prevents tissues etc from getting blown up into the vents.

Here is the cause
===============
Right on top of that mesh you'll likely see the recirc door, fallen out of position, and resting right on top of the blower motor, blocking the duct, and severely restricting air flow


Now what?
=========
You cannot replace just the door, its in the Max AC Air Inlet Duct
The part is about $49 at the dealer, but requires the dash removal and Ford states 6.9 hrs... that's probably a $700 dollar job

Here's what I did for now
==============
Empty the glove box
squeeze the sides, and lower it to the floor

You'll see the top of the blower motor housing - its the round part.
Above this is the Air Inlet Duct

IMG_8190.jpg


The duct is kind of tent shaped as can be seen in the exploded diagram above, its #16, and the door is hinged at the top point and swings to each side to allow or stop outside air.

This Air Inlet Duct is in 2 pieces. Remove these four 8mm bolts with a small ratchet.

IMG_8189.jpg


Then you can split the two pieces with a couple of flat screw drivers. The pieces are not glued so they can be pryed apart easily.

When you've got enough room reach in with a couple fingers and pull out the door.

This is the door
IMG_8191.jpg


Its much bigger than I thought.
Once its out, replace the 4 bolts of the Air Inlet Duct, and put the glove box back up.

Bolt the blower motor back up too.


After doing this, I now have the air flow on speed 1, that I used to on speed 4.


But wait! What about a permanent fix?
===================
The downfall to this workaround, is that you always have outside air coming into the system (as you would on regular AC)
Here in FL, that can be really hot air, which will not allow the AC to cool as efficiently.
The opposite would be true in colder climates, when driving, you'll have cold air coming in behind the glove box and you wife may have to cover her legs with a blanket :rolleyes:


So after I removed the door, I sealed up the intake outside the truck.
1 - open the hood
2 - remove the passenger side cowl grill (its just snapped in)
3 - Just below the windshield, there is triangular plastic cover that's snapped in but does have some sealant on it. gently pry this off.
4 - Then if you look inside, you'll see a scoop shape on the firewall with a gap at the top. This gap is where the outside air comes in.
5 - I sealed it off with clear packing tape for now as I plan to remove it later when I replace the duct.

I dont have time right now to pull the dash so this is just to allow more air so I can feel it on my face. With this door restricting air flow, the AC would not move a hair on my head, but now it does!

In the near future, I will replace the Air Inlet Duct assembly
For Ford Explorer and Mercury Mountaineer 2002, 2003, 2004 & 2005 the part # is 1L2Z18B259AC, list price is $49.60

This site ----> http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblog/2008/08/2003-ford-explorer-ac-not-cold-enough/
has excellent instructions for doing it without removing the whole dash as Ford would have you believe they do.
This guy can replace the part in 45 minutes, so I'll budget a few hrs for me.

Hope this helps someones cool down quicker, or at least offers a way to diagnose a similar problem.




:thumbsup:
Hey Curtis,
Thanks for this tip. I took about 45 minutes and now the air flow is great. I plan to look at the site on how to replace the door later. For now I'm COOL. Thanks -
 






Im glad this has helped so many people!
 






Curtis -- you're a gentleman and a scholar. Clear, precise directions. It took me about 3.5 minutes to do this.

I had the Ex at the stealership yesterday to assess the problem ($700 to replace whole air box). They dropped the blower, but now the only air coming out the front is in the defroster. I bet they put the blower back in on top of one of those tubes / wires. I'm going to go drop it, clear the rim there, reinstall, and see if that works.

WSM
 






I officially love you guys!

It took a bit of yoga, but I traced the grey and black "fat wires" (i guess they're some kind of vaccuum tube), and the tech at the dealership, when he re-mounted the blower fan, pinched these WAAAAAY back in the back, by the firewall, up top. I loosened up the blower screws (as detailed by Curtis) enough to wiggle those 2 lines back out the front of the blower/duct seam. They were notably pinched. I reattached the blower, and WOW! the fan blows great! defroster/vents/floor all working as expected.

I love you guys.

So - to remove the broken air recirc door -- about 3.5 minutes. To free the lines (yoga included) about 5 minutes. Oh, and I pulled out the rubber fitting where the grey and black lines go into the oval, black, submarine-looking plastic thing (?) just to see what they were (coz i'm curious and stupid that way). I plugged them back in, and it seems to be fine. I guess this is some sort of vacuum tank...

Thanks again y'all! Very helpful, and saved $700. This cost nothing but about 10 minutes and some sweat. Going on a road trip tomorrow in FL, so i'm much relieved.
 






perfect directions for removing the recirc door and air is blowing great now.....

my question now is do i ever need to replace the assembly? what reason would anyone have to do so? i will get colder air in the summer and warmer in the winter......... anyone have comment?

also, as another post mentioned......... i fixed the problem with the recirc door and it worked great... next morning i got in the truck and air would only come thru the defrost vent and at my feet.... i checked all my vacuum lines and what i found was - the vacuum actuator that pushes and pulls the mechanism that redirects the air had come apart/seperated. to locate this mechanism, look inside the glove box area, up and to the left, there is a silver arm that pushes in and out when you turn the switch from vents to defrost... the plastic part that connected the two was actually broken off, three small wire ties and i'm back in business
 






Just did the same fix on my 05. I truely fixed mine as in put the door back in place without pulling the dash in about the same time or less to remove the door. Pull the fan as shown earlier. Pull the glove box out and unbolt it. Directly in the front there is a screw pinching the a/c duct to the fan housing, remove that screw. Now gently pry the two ducts apart they will move easily. Put your hand through where the blower motor was to the screen and gently pull the screen off enough to get your hand through. Look at the pictures of the door, there is a pin on the right and a hole on the left for the actuator. Slide the door back into place locating the pin first and a put the door back on the actuator. Once back on, on the outside of the duct locate the actuator and push against the rod/bellcrank on the top of the actuator to make sure it is in the the door all the way. Now you can put the screen back and install the motor. No need to buy a new door, pretty good chance yours isn't broke it just fell off. Cost nothing to put back on and took maybe 30 min.

Matt
 






my question now is do i ever need to replace the assembly? what reason would anyone have to do so? i will get colder air in the summer and warmer in the winter......... anyone have comment?

also, as another post mentioned.........


I haven't re-installed the air recirc door I removed last year and I haven't noticed anything different with my heat or AC. My dash vents have great air flow now with it out of there. The previous theory I read about was that once you removed the air recirc door, you would lose Max AC coldness and in winter, you would get a cold air draft coming into the vehicle from behind the glove box. I've noticed neither problem. No cold air draft in winter, inside truck heats up great and I just turned on the AC a week ago and it was frosty cold. As far as I am concerned, I can live without the need to re-install it but I have the air recirc door stored away if I ever need it.
 






Thanks!

I was able to remove my Fresh Air Door in less than 5 minutes using your method. Thanks for taking the time to post your fix. Not sure if I will replace or just seal it up and leave it be. This is truly a life save and thanks again!
 






Great write up. Just took care of this on my 04'. One of the tabs on the door was broken off. Now the air blows like it should which is nice now that temps have hit 110.
 






Thanks to all on this thread. I just finished pulling the door, and am going to drive around to see how the air flow is.
 






Great fix! thank you...

However now the defroster doesn't blow... Any ideas?
 






Thank you x's about 1,000,000 :) being in Alabama with little to no a/c is a lot less comfortable than one might have originally imagined.
 






Ok, I need some ideas. Last night I looked at my re circulation door and noticed that while I had my glove box removed the door was working normally. The only issue I did notice was that when I switch from Max A/C to floor, the air still comes out of the front facing vents. But still, the air worked. When I button it all back up and come to work this morning, my air stopped coming out of the front vents again. Is this a control unit problem or what? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated as I would like to know what I am trying to fix before I fix it. Thanks in advance.
 



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You may have pinched the vacuum tubes (if you dropped the motor fan). There is a small grey and a small black "wire" (actually a tube) running from the fan motor to a black, oval plastic "bottle". it's very easy to get those tubes caught in the seam of the fan edge if you take it off. The dealership did it to mine when I had them check this out (before I found this forum). Same thing happened --- air blew fine driving home that day --- next day, nothing. I loosened the bolts on the fan enough to wiggle those vacuum tubes clear of the coping, tightened the bolts back up, and it worked fine.
 






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