Location of IAT wires on MAS harness? | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Location of IAT wires on MAS harness?

scorgnetic

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City, State
San Diego, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
99 Sport
Well,

I picked up a new module called the g-box and I want to give it a shot but I cant find the IAT so I am guessing that it is one with the MAS. If anyone knows which wires these are, please let me know. My IAT is not on the intake track.

Randy
 



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Let me guess, you bought he "resistor" from Ebay for you intake air temp sensor?

If you install this device, lookout, you are gonna get at least 100HP, it iwll be like driving a rocket!!

No just kidding. I am not sure what this G box is you got, but if you are looking to wire it in to your IAT, my advice is to return it to whomever you bought it from. This is an OLD trick, you can go to Radio Shack and buy fifty cent resistor to install on the EEC lead for the IAT, this fools the computer into thinking your driving around and it;s 30 degrees outside no matter what, this will dump more fuel and may help get a few HP if you have already opened up your intake and exhaust, etc...

However your gas milage is going to be a joke, also you will be killing your catalytic convertor and 02 sensors, by dumpung un burned fuel into the exhaust, other problems will exist too. Here's the bottom line, your IAT is there for a reason, to tell the computer the tempof the incoming air so the computer can adjust the fuel/spark/air accordingly. The computer does a really goodjob of this, messing with the signal from the IAT is messing with teh computer.....you are better off doing it right, with a aftermarket computer chip.

Ditch the G-box, it;s a scam. If you still want to do it, go spend fifty cents at radio shack, anything else is a SCAM.

Oh and if you still want to install it, let me know, I have a bridge to sell you....
 






1. there is no need to be sarcastic.

2. This isn't just a resistor to put inline with your IAT.

3. I'm not a 12 year old who doesnt even know where the gas pedal is.

I understand the effects of putting a resistor inline and thats not what this is accomplishing. granted it could be a scam but from what I have gathered this is a legit product. I just want to give it a run and it may have been worth the cash and it may not, but please dont try telling me about missing blinker fluid, etc.
 






OH dont get me wrong, I had no intention of turning you off from your project, I am just trying to advise you of the ill effects this product WILL have on your engine, why? because I have seen it 100 times before.... It started out in the Mustang crowd with the old speed density setups, and has trickled down from there.

Maybe you can give me some more info on this G-box then I can give some more advice.

I can look up the wiring for you at home tonight, I am pretty sure the IAT has a red/white signal wire to the EEC along with the power feed, however that is from memory so I wouldnt do anything until I can look at my schematics.....what kind of instructions came with the product?

1: Did you buy it off E-bay?
2: What other circuits does this box wire into?
3: WHat year and engine do you have (just checking)

OH and as far as the 100HP joke, I just try to keep things "light" around here, it;s not sarcasim pointed at you, it;s a joke, thats why I said Just kidding.... :)
 






here is the link Dead Link Removed

It sounds like a valid product and I just got it in the mail today and took it apart and its not just a resistor in series. Granted, it still could be a scam but for 40 I figured it was worth a shot. Money grows on tree's anyways. ;)

As far as looking up the wiring, my POS Haynes manual really doesnt give an accurate diagram and the only IAT that I see is the one that is plumbed into the intake track.

Anyways, sorry about the attitude, I know it was just in fun.

Randy
 






Few things:

"JET product requires that you change the thermistat in your vehicle, adding another $50 at minimum to the already not-so-cheap price tag of $270."

Thermostats are $3, tops.

"Many JET customers are dissatisfied with this because they have much difficulty getting heat during the winter months."

A thermostat that opens earlier, at 180 degrees does not effect the normal engine operating tempature, getting the heater core up to temp just takes an extra 30 seconds of warm up time. I always run a 180 stat, the truck still reaches 195 degrees which is whats required for the EEC to switch to open loop.

Okay I read the add, looks like the same thing as a resistor in a nice case. I wouldnot install this on my truck in a million years. Youcan try it and post your results, just keep in mind there is a "REASON" why Ford made the IAT send the signal it does, you mess with this it is not going to function properly. If you want to change your fuel/air curve you need to buy a real performance computer chip like that from Diablo.

There is NOTHING on that Ebay add that says this product is different from the resistor, except that it is shielded from heat. To me it looks, smells, and is a Ebay scam........
Now you can prove it to us......

Comparing a resistor that wires inline with the IAT wires to a JET performance module is apples to oranges. The Jet module actually plugs into the computer brainbox and modifies the stock program to adjust ALL fuel to air ratio's, this G-box wires into the IAt to tell the computer it is 30 degrees outside, even when it is 105, you see there is a problem with this, you will not get the correct air/fuel mixture with this setup, and you will have problems. You dont need to take my word for it however......it may help at the track, but it;s gonna hurt you everywhere else........
 






Thats what I plan on doing. I just want to see how it works and go from there. Like i said, I pulled it apart and it has a module inside, BUT you can make resistors to look like whatever you want.

It probably is just another 5000 HP gain w/ a bildge pump but what the heck.
 






OKay well keep us posted!!!!!

Do you have any other mods?

I would really be concerned however, if you dump extra fuel, you need to be able to burn it with extra air and spark, this G-box does not do a single thing to adjust the air/spark, just fuel = bad news for your cat convertor, 02 sensors, emissions, and gas mileage.
 






Right now, all that I am sporting is a K&N.

Actually, these are some very good points that I need to email them about.

But, I would much rather run rich than lean.

Well, if anything, I am out 40 or I can put it back up on EBAY. I was always told that if it sounds to good to be true it is. I guess that I'll find out.

If you can find that IAT wires, please let me know.

Randy
 






I can get the info on the wires for you tonight and post them in the morning.

Rich is not good. How do you like replacing a $200 catalytic convertor? It will only take a few hundred miles to get it clogged up when you dump exhat unburned fuel in there. Not to mention the effects is has onthe EGR, and will kill your 02 sensors. Okay so lets see, the extra fuel gets dumped out the exhaust because the air and spark cant burn it, this kills 2 02 sensors at $60 ea, then your cat gets clogged and a stock cat consists of a resinator and cat, so un less you pan to replace it with a very expensive stock resonator and cat setup you are gonna need another $200 for a new cat and $100 worth of exhaust bending/welding to get the new cat in where the old factory duel setup was. Most likely you will foul your spark plugs with this as well and get a CEL after the 02's go out.

Doesnt seem worth the "risk" to me. I would rather take $200 and buy a real proven performance computer module from a proven comany with a reputation.

Youcan tell just by reading the posted info on the Ebay ad that this is a scam, they do not give you any information about the company history, they do not have any proof to back up their performance gains, shall I go on?
 






Very good points.

I have another question.

I come from the world of turbos and one little tweak was to remove the EGR and just block it off with a metal plate. What kind of reaction would a N/A have to this. In theory it should run just fine.
 












Simple, the computer dumps more fuel and advances the timing slightly when it's really cold outside to compensate for the colder air charge making its way through the intake system and into the combustion chamber. Cooler air = denser so more air is in the combustion chamber requiring more fuel and spark to ignite it all, hence the purpose of the IAT sensor, to tell the computer how cold the air is. So you wire in this resistor, it tells the computer 30 degrees at all times, extra fuel, extra spark, problem is there isnt any extra air because it;s not really that cold out....so extra spakr and extra gas dont get used, extra gas is then dumped out the exhaust valve, and down to your cat convertor.....

A computer chip will adjust all 3 (air/fuel/spark) the correct way, not by fooling a sensor, but by changing the computers base settings.....anything else is or short of this is gonna hurt more then its gonna help.......

Again if you look at their website..

"Please accept our apologies, we have previously been a regional performance company and are just getting on the internet"

Really? What Regional Performance Company? Sounds like a cover up....its a load of BS, but again, dont take my word for it.....see for yourself.........I have seen this issue beaten to death over the last 5 years or so on several Ranger boards, Mustang boards, etc....same result every time....except now comes along Ebay, making it simple to run a scam like this. Hell you can sell anything on Ebay if you make it SOUND good.... I could probably sell a 6 pack of beer by telling people it;s a new diet!!
 






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